Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[sawdust21]

A call to (remington) arms!

I sat down this morning and meandered thru all these threads, and I thought back to what and who got us underway. Crane posted a thread a while back, titled "Why can't Remingtons get any respect" and some of us picked up on that. Wampum was kind enough to post a sticky thread to crank it up, and now here we are. Only 15 pages into this thread, and it appears our enthusiasm is waning. Now that might answer Crane's original query. We are a bunch of niche collectors, but I still believe Remingtons were ahead of their time. I have other chainsaws, but nothing brings a smile to my face faster than my old Remingtons. If our love for these saws is genuine and shows, there'll surely be converts; so now I'm asking all of us to pick up the Remington/Mall banner and keep this thread alive. Post photos, share information and best of all share stories of your Remington/Mall experiences; and Crane, if you're out there and reading....thanks for getting us motivated. Remingtons will get as much respect as we can generate for them. When asked what vintage saw we collect, let's proudly put Remington/Mall up there as the default answer!

So much for my ramble, but let's get going, and I'll try to curb my enthusiasm!:msp_w00t:

 

[67L36Driver]

Roller nose roller.

#48520 assembly

So, how do you change them? Just slide in or is there a hidden set screw?

 

[sawdust21]

#48520 assembly

So, how do you change them? Just slide in or is there a hidden set screw?

You'll need to knock the old rivets out with a center punch, and remove the old roller nose assembly, then install the new one in reverse order. If your rivets aren't badly damaged, you can reuse them.
A broad head punch will usually do the trick to flatten them back out. Tighten enough to get the play out of the nose.

 

[sawdust21]

Snagged this Remington Bar Roller Nose Sprocket New Old Stock | eBay off ebay.

I may have shot myself in the foot as there is no mention of what guage it is. My 75A's use .058".

You can check the gauge of the bar/roller nose, with a standard feeler gauge kit. If you don't have any .058/.063 gauge blades, just take two smaller blades that add up to the correct total, then insert them in tandam for a fit.

 

[67L36Driver]

You'll need to knock the old rivets out with a center punch, and remove the old roller nose assembly, then install the new one in reverse order. If your rivets aren't badly damaged, you can reuse them.
A broad head punch will usually do the trick to flatten them back out. Tighten enough to get the play out of the nose.

What puzzels me is there is a chunk of metal held in with four new rivits between the plates. Why put four rivits in that you have to remove in order to install it??

Maybe this is some kind of display sample.

Guage is fine. Part number matches the assembly number on my two 75A's.

 

[67L36Driver]

Roller nose roller.

This thing is new, never used. View attachment 189556 So why rivit a chunk of metal in it that has to be removed?

 

[sawdust21]

This thing is new, never used. View attachment 189556 So why rivit a chunk of metal in it that has to be removed?

Have you removed your old roller nose yet? If so, you should be able to see how the new one mounts. As for the metal placed between, as I recall the last one I installed had the rivets packaged with the roller nose. Perhaps yours had been temporarily joined to prevent distortion of the assembly prior to use.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Mall 10 Restoration

I had this for a few years. When I got it I did not try to start it.
I did check the spark,it was good. The compression felt good when
I pulled it over but it seemed a little ruff turning. A few days ago I got it
out to look at restoring it. I went to pull the starter and no go. Took it off
the bench and set on the ground and pulled harder on the starter it started
moving but real ruff. So time to take it apart and see what is wrong in there.
Took the muffler off and the piston looked good.

From what I can see the piston looks good

Its coming apart pretty easy so far, the clutch is in good shape.
The starter works real good,

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Got the carb off and removed the reed block. Its dry and corroding in there.

It all looks real good here.The coil looks like new,must of been replaced not
to long ago.

A lot of dry crud in the bottom of the housing.

The cylinder and piston look good, just need to clean them up a little.

Well got the crank case apart,was not too bad coming apart. Now need to get
the bearings and seals out. Both bearings are dry and rusting up.

 

[sawdust21]

Just the right stuff

Thanks for sharing the teardown with us. This is just the kind of things we need to liven this thread up! Hope you'll share some more along the way. Professor Bow Saw.....that has a nice ring to it.!

 

[67L36Driver]

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/189713d1309934104-mall-10-k-jpg

If you post the size (bore x O.D. x width) and configuration (seal, shield and/or snap ring groove) of those ball bearings I can try to find the equivalent MRC numbers in my engineering book if you would like. I also have a C.R. interchange book.


Carl.

 

[Hagen70]

Remington Super 660

I have one of these mostly complete if someone wants to pay for shipping. Seems to have low compression but have not tried to start it, just pulled it over slow to see if it spins free which it does. Can possibly post a pic later.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Thanks for sharing the teardown with us. This is just the kind of things we need to liven this thread up! Hope you'll share some more along the way. Professor Bow Saw.....that has a nice ring to it.!

Thanks.:msp_biggrin:

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/189713d1309934104-mall-10-k-jpg

If you post the size (bore x O.D. x width) and configuration (seal, shield and/or snap ring groove) of those ball bearings I can try to find the equivalent MRC numbers in my engineering book if you would like. I also have a C.R. interchange book.


Carl.

Thanks.
I have a good bearing dealer just a few miles away. They had one seal and bearing
in stock, So I ordered the others, They came in today.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

This bearing came out real easy once I remove the round plate on the
other side.

This one took a little more time to drive off.

Now I have the bearings and seals out. So I went and got new ones.

I got the crank case and reed block cleaned up.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Made some gaskets for the crank case and reed block both sides.

Made one for the cylinder base.

Got the crank,piston, cylinder and head all clean and
ready. I will paint the cylinder and head.
Its going to be Cast coat Aluminum.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looking pretty good Bow Saw! Thanks for the updates, nice photos!

 

[sawdust21]

What puzzels me is there is a chunk of metal held in with four new rivits between the plates. Why put four rivits in that you have to remove in order to install it??

Maybe this is some kind of display sample.

Guage is fine. Part number matches the assembly number on my two 75A's.

I guess I wasn't clear on what you were saying. There should be a keyway piece of metal in the rollernose to fit into the slot of the bar. If the rivets are already there, you will likely just need to snug them down when you put the new roller nose in place. Hope I didn't confuse you, but I was thinking there was a piece of metal of equal size to the roller nose back that you were referring to. Hope this helps.

 

[sawdust21]

Made some gaskets for the crank case and reed block both sides.

Made one for the cylinder base.

Got the crank,piston, cylinder and head all clean and
ready. I will paint the cylinder and head.
Its going to be Cast coat Aluminum.

Looks grrrrrreeeeaaat Mr. Bowsaw! How do you clean your parts? They look brand new. I use mild degreaser along with heavy elbow grease and brass brushes....but I can't say that mine look near as nice as yours. What's your secret?

 

[Hagen70]

Remington

View attachment 189859View attachment 189860View attachment 189861View attachment 189862View attachment 189863

See if these work for you.

 

[sawdust21]

Remington Bantam starter cup.....PHOTO NEEDED

Anybody out there got a Bantam they could share a photo of the starter cup, which I assume is attached to the clutch retainer bolt??