Restore the Old Oak

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So'd you do it?
Yeah I started it Sunday and will finish it Wednesday. It's pretty ugly up there; the top middle lead was 32" circ and 16" was dead due to the old topping (pic 1). I did not prune it because I did not see a reason to.

One lateral below there was so decayed it was wobbly so I reduced it back to the healthiest upright (in the middle of pic 2)

Pic 3 is the base of a dead top; no callus to speak of.

Pic 4 is the large lower limb that grew toward the street. Dead streak on top was likely sunscald damage that happened after the topping; pretty good callus on the edges so I gave it a fair prognosis despite the transverse crack. I will be lightly reducing the end of that one to lessen the strain when I return there tomorrow.

Before I left I'd swapped the short bar from my 019 onto my 200t, then stupidly put the 019 cover on the 200t so of course the sprocket is clamped and it did not work.:laugh: :pumpkin2: :chainsawguy: I think I'll pick up a little Echo to finish the job with and then I'll have a spare climbing saw.

Overall the tree is ruined by the topping so all I can do is make it less crappy. Not real fulfilling work, tho it is extending the safe useful life somewhat.
 
How long will it live in it's crappy state before it becomes totally pathetic? In your best estimation, assuming it gets some more care.
 
How long will it live in it's crappy state before it becomes totally pathetic? In your best estimation, assuming it gets some more care.
Indefinitely, to tell the truth. It has been struggling to recover for 15 years, after all. I'll finish pruning, prescribe root therapy, and check on it in 2 years. At its age, I don't expect sudden changes.
 
Glad to see your getting it done.
What are you saying about pic two? I would think that upright was a sucker and cut it off automatically. I see the need for it in this case because there is nothing else to give that branch any life. Am I wrong about it being a sucker or watershoot? Or it that branch was healthy would that branch be a target for removal?
I worked on a big red oak today myself. Trimming off dead branches with a bow saw. I'll do it over a period of several climbs. I am just learning how to climb. I did some limb walking today which felt real good. I really am liking this new gig.
I am looking forward to learning about trees as I go.
This a pic of what I am targeting as removals. The branches that are coming out of the top of the branch to the right and left.
prunethis.jpg
 
Great looking tree.

0. Inspection of root flair for decay.
1. Suggest mulching some of the area under the tree.
2. Suggest not parking under the tree.
3. Light reduction of the dominate leader on the right. (attached pic)
4. Light reduction of highly leveraged limbs.
5. Close inspection for decay of the area of the tree where it was topped and lighten or removal of weakly attached growth.
6. Inspection of all limbs for good attachment to the tree.
7. Remove all dead wood.
8. Warn owner about the dangers of herbicides.
9. Check up in two years.

Many more small pruning cuts would be made that are not marked in the attached photo.

Looks like a fun rope climbing tree.
After seeing the second batch of pictures, you still going to stand by your cuts suggested by the marks in your picture? To me, that's way to aggressive, even on a healthy tree.
The tree is in a fairly advanced state of decline. I was sad to see all the live branches on the ground in Guy's pictures.
 
Glad to see your getting it done.
What are you saying about pic two? I would think that upright was a sucker and cut it off automatically. I see the need for it in this case because there is nothing else to give that branch any life. Am I wrong about it being a sucker or watershoot? Or it that branch was healthy would that branch be a target for removal?
I worked on a big red oak today myself. Trimming off dead branches with a bow saw. I'll do it over a period of several climbs. I am just learning how to climb. I did some limb walking today which felt real good. I really am liking this new gig.
I am looking forward to learning about trees as I go.
This a pic of what I am targeting as removals. The branches that are coming out of the top of the branch to the right and left.
You need to take the work "sucker" out of your vocabulary. There is no such thing. It is fogging your understanding of tree biology. If you insist on using it, use it correctly, it is slang for a shoot growing off a root.
Up in a tree there are shoots, limbs, branches, but no suckers.
Once you get that registered, understand that a tree doesn't grow these tree parts for no reason. Leave them alone, unless yo have a very good reason to cut them off, especially on a mature, or over mature tree, like this one.
Remember, less is more!
 
Mike, the only green I took off was attached to some serious rot. I do not agree with Dan's suggestion to reduce the upright, even tho it grows toward the house and is exposed to wind, because its support is solid and the top is sparse . I will lightly reduce the horizontal for the reasons Dan mentioned.

It'll be 99 degrees when I get there to prune it today--I wanna keep all the shade I can!
 
here are the aftershots. pic 1 is the aftershot of the cracking left lead that i reduced, with the slaughtered leaves lying helplessly beneath. Mike, time to play The Saints Go Marching In! The highest lead on the right I just removed some deadwood with my hoochie; after closely inspecting I decided to not even climb it. I would have if needed, even tho it was 99 degrees, sunset was coming on, and I had already been in the tree 5 hours. :blob2: Camelbacks and ice are the way to go!

pic 2 is the end of the one branch i reduced due to decay. There are 2 others I plan to reduce during my biennial visit in 2009, after seeing how it responds. 9 total hours to prune that thing, a real joy despite dealing with the topping injuries. client is very pleased and the tree will get paclobutrazol and root therapy in january. soil is way too hard to mess with now.
 
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Did you stand back and take pictures from the same spots as you did before the work?
no i did not take the before shots; the client did, and he is plugged into the forum and said he would take aftershots from the same angles. It was too dark when I quit and I was a tad pooped. He may also post some "during" pics; if so i apologize in advance for the lack of ppe.

betcha a nickel you will not see a dime's worth of difference between before and after. no way i would touch that right lead; given the tree's wounded condition an unnecessary 2" wound would have been unconscionable. As usual, we agree in the end. :angel:
 
Just wondering,
I know there are alot of differing opinions on this topic.
But, seeing that being an Oak and being pruned in this hot weather,
wouldn't it be a good idea to dress the wounds with a pruning sealer
to prevent against oak wilt ???
 
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that right leader looks heavy and out there I would want to drop croch it back some just so I wouldn't worry about it in the wind. our southern reds are brittle :chainsawguy:
 
Just wondering,
I know there are alot of differing opinions on this topic.
But, seeing that being an Oak and being pruned in this hot weather,
wouldn't it be a good idea to dress the wounds with a pruning sealer
to prevent against oak wilt ???

Oak wilt is not very common in the southeast.
 
our southern reds are brittle
???? "Brittle" does not come to mind when describing Q falcata here in NC. Our most brittle oak is Q phellos willow oak which will break under extreme loads. This site is a good ways--3-4 hrs-- inland so hurricanes will be pooped by the time they arrive.

even tho oak wilt is not common here I probably should have painted the few cuts I made on live wood.
 
pay rate

Just curious if you generally charge by the hour on a job like this. I know its hard to tell how much is up there until you're actually in the tree. I sometime have a hard time estimating my time on these type of jobs, so with a set price i sometimes don't made what i had hoped to. If you don't mind me asking what would be your hourly rate on this kind on job.

Thanks boynat
 
At Treeseer's invitation then, here are the "after" shots of the Oak:

First (1253) is the 'front' (looking East). The house in the background is about 40 feet behind the tree, by the way.

Second (1257) is the 'back' (actually looking more Northwest). The house in the background of the first picture is gone. Burned down, but that is a different story.

While it may not be visible in these pictures, the tree does look lighter and more open.

And I have learned a lot in the process, and certainly enjoy the discussion.

Thanks!
 
It's good to see you backing off from doing so much crown reduction.:cheers:

To nice to see our years of debating have made you a better arborist.:popcorn:
You may have taken a few more living branches than I would have, but all in all, it looks like a top notch job.

When it gets hot, and I'm doing a climbing intensive, mostly hand trimming job, I wear shorts and a tee shirt.
 
It's good to see you backing off from doing so much crown reduction.
Who, me? I routinely do branch reduction, very seldom full crown reduction :D O yes and thank you for all the instruction, especially those pink boards...:bowdown:
When it gets hot, and I'm doing a climbing intensive, mostly hand trimming job, I wear shorts and a tee shirt.
and get your skin all scratched and dirty? not me; the more light cloth is flapping around me the cooler I stay.

O and boynat I bid by the hour most of the time, just like the other repairmen. How much? High enough to cover expenses and make a living, but low enough to compete. ;)
 

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