Ripsaw help please?

[BIG JAKE]

I have a line on a used Ripsaw. The guy wants 1,000 plus shipping for the saw which I assume includes powerhead-will find out. I don't know what model I know it's a later model Stihl looks like an 029 or 036 class saw. If someone could send me an e-copy of the manual for fairly new model Ripsaw that'd be great so I can see what it is supposed to come with. Ripsaw website is currently unavailable so no help there. Also, any ideas on how I can transact the deal fairly safely? The unit too far away to transact the deal in person. I was thinking of proposing to the guy shipping C.O.D. and I send a certified check covering shipping/insurance both ways(whatever that happens to be), plus 50.00 for his time. That way he gets his saw back if I were to welch, and I don't lose the full grand if the saw doesn't come(50.00 being part of the 1k)How's that sound? I'll call UPS to see what are options as I don't know. What's shipping weight of the band unit anyway? Also, if saw does not come with powerhead what would be reasonable price?. Any help appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

[BIG JAKE]

I have an 028 I could run on the band unit but am also aware from other posts that conversion saw mounts to change existing are pricey so I'll try to get the powerhead with it. I'll be cutting mostly conifers and other softwood like aspen with it mainly.

 

[AndyR]

Hi,
I bought one used off of ebay last year for 1,300.00 including freight delivery. The one I bought had a nearly new 036 stihl, 3 guide beams (w/hardware), and the carriage and rail unit (which I haven't used yet).

I'm sorry I can't find the electronic version of the manual right now. All I can find is the brochure which I'll post here for you. There are a lot of small parts, all of which you can order through SIR (assuming everything is ok with them...I noticed the website was down also).

Takes a little bit to get the hang of it, but it does the job and you don't lose quite so much wood to the kerf as you would with a CSM.

I'm sure Woodshop will be along eventually to add info, he's far more knowledgeable than I on this stuff. Try doing a search for Ripsaw on this forum, if you haven't yet, you might find some more helpful stuff.
If you get really stuck on getting a manual, let me know, I can make a copy and mail it to you. I think there is only one and it isn't all that great, but it does have part lists.

Oh yeah, most of the stihl saws will fit it at least with the same mounts as the 036. It's stihl vs. Husky conversion where you run into trouble. Also you can't use a rim sprocket system-have to use the other style.

Andy

 

[BIG JAKE]

Thanks for the info Andy-like I said I have an 028 which is one of the saws listed on their website I just don't know if the oiler holes/mount holes etc match up between saws in the stihl line. I imagine there are differences between models but if it comes with the saw it won't matter.

 

[Mad Professor]

Thanks for the info Andy-like I said I have an 028 which is one of the saws listed on their website I just don't know if the oiler holes/mount holes etc match up between saws in the stihl line. I imagine there are differences between models but if it comes with the saw it won't matter.

The bar mounts should be the same all the way up to the 066/660

 

[BIG JAKE]

Right on-if the oiler holes are the same I'll be good to go plus another saw for backup. Not sure what saw I'll need after that. Maybe a 084 or 880. I can probably figure out a reason why I need one. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[slabmaster]

Oiler holes are the same.I own a 028 & an 038 same bar is used for both.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Oiler holes are the same.I own a 028 & an 038 same bar is used for both.

Sweet-Thanks for that info as the he may want to keep his saw. Haven't been able to get a hold of the guy again so will see. Anyone know what the carriage is worth? I think he has that too, although I don't see the need for really in my case. The whole reason for wanting one is the portability and the speed. The idea of having to set something up spells t-i-m-e. But hey, if the price is right.... .

 

[BIG JAKE]

Oiler holes are the same.I own a 028 & an 038 same bar is used for both.

Sweet-Thanks for that info as the he may want to keep his saw. Haven't been able to get a hold of the guy again so will see. Anyone know what the carriage is worth? I think he has that too, although I don't see the need for really in my case. The whole reason for wanting one is the portability and the speed. The idea of having to set something up spells t-i-m-e. But hey, if the price is right.... .

 

[Al Weber]

If the RipSaw and powerhead is in any decent shape, that is a good price. I paid $1500 for one with a new 036 about 2 years ago. It didn't even have exhaust deposits on the height adjustment decals.

Here is the manual for the unit as downloaded a year or so ago.

 

[Zodiac45]

Hi,
I bought one used off of ebay last year for 1,300.00 including freight delivery. The one I bought had a nearly new 036 stihl, 3 guide beams (w/hardware), and the carriage and rail unit (which I haven't used yet).

I'm sorry I can't find the electronic version of the manual right now. All I can find is the brochure which I'll post here for you. There are a lot of small parts, all of which you can order through SIR (assuming everything is ok with them...I noticed the website was down also).

Takes a little bit to get the hang of it, but it does the job and you don't lose quite so much wood to the kerf as you would with a CSM.

I'm sure Woodshop will be along eventually to add info, he's far more knowledgeable than I on this stuff. Try doing a search for Ripsaw on this forum, if you haven't yet, you might find some more helpful stuff.
If you get really stuck on getting a manual, let me know, I can make a copy and mail it to you. I think there is only one and it isn't all that great, but it does have part lists.

Oh yeah, most of the stihl saws will fit it at least with the same mounts as the 036. It's stihl vs. Husky conversion where you run into trouble. Also you can't use a rim sprocket system-have to use the other style.

Andy

Yep need too have a spur drive sprocket.

 

[woodshop]

All good advice so far... as was said the problem is trying to mate a Husky saw on a Ripsaw that has a Stihl interface as the oiler holes etc don't match. If you're sawing mainly conifers and softwood an 028 is plenty power for the Ripsaw as it doesn't take a powerful saw to pull that band through (maximum) 14 inches of wood. Example, in 8 inch wide softwood you will be able to push that mill down an 8ft log in less than 30 seconds. Slow compared to a full blown bandmill, but fast enough to mill 300-400 ft of lumber in a good afternoon if everything is set up. That spur drive sprocket comes with the Ripsaw, but you can get them cheap from Baileys etc.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Thanks fellers for the replies I think I have enough info to know what I should get with the ripsaw. If I end up with the thing I'll be posting pics from time to time. Right now I'm still healing up from a knee rebuild back in mid december. Been working in my shop cleaning and got my welding table cleared off. I did some welding/modding yesterday on a new pancake compressor for my nail guns and when I'm done painting it I've got some mods to do on my alaskan(homemade) type mill. Kind of like retirement must be right now no worries about work or money-just hope the economy picks up. BTW it's nice to relax and have time to weld and do things I didn't have time for last year.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Guide rail dimensions

Ok-The ripsaw shipped yesterday:greenchainsaw:. It won't come with guide rails though as they are welded to something. I was down looking at aluminum rails at steel shop all they had was 6" wide X 2" X 3/16" thk U channel. At 25 ft for 155 bucks plus the governors share. I'd probably buy rails from Ripsaw but site still is down.
Can someone measure the rails from Ripsaw and tell me dimensions? Also are they rigid enough or should I go thicker wall thickness?

 

[woodsrunner]

Try this link

I think they must have changed their web address try this out:

http://www.rip-saw.net/index.html

Scott

 

[BIG JAKE]

Thanks WR-I had old website address seems like they should have had a link or something to the new site. I was thinking maybe they were undergoing hard times what with the economy an all. Glad to see they're still in business. Be nice to know from any ripsaw owners what they think of the rail system from ripsaw. I was at the steel shop today and I can get 25 ft of rail from local steel dealer for slightly less than 11.5 ft(155.00) plus no shipping to pay. I don't know what rectangular tubing they use from ripsaw and wall thickness but I'd like to end up with something functional but rigid enough. The guys from ripsaw probably have a good workable system but since I've never used it I don't have any experience to judge whether to buy rails from them or not. Any feedback on the rails?

 

[woodsrunner]

I thought the same thing

about Ripsaw. I was afraid they had gone under because of the website issue. I stumbled across the link a few days ago (I googled it I think). I seem to remember the website calling the guide rail an aluminum extrusion so it may be a custom made extrusion for Ripsaw. Might be hard to find something with the same performance of the OEM rails, maybe not. I don't have a ripsaw nor have I used one so can't give you any help on the functionality of their rails. Just a thought, you might use some unistrut or superstrut setup like BobL's with the 2 rails connected laterally by allthread. If a single rail isn't stiff enough you could double them (2 struts bolted together back to back, I'm going to do this with some 20 footers I have). Superstrut at Home Depot here is about $18.00 for a single 10 ft piece. 4 of them would be $72.00. Might work until you could find something better. I use superstrut for my GB mill with a 395 and a 42 inch bar and don't have any problems with it deflecting over a 10 ft length. Just thinking off the top of my head here.

Scott

 

[Al Weber]

The wall thickness on the RipSaw rails is 1/8" and the outside dimensions are about 1 1/2" x 6". I'm not exactly sure on the outer dimensions but the thickness is correct. The rails are perfectly solid as they are but remember they are box beams and not U-beams. Don't forget there are end clamps and extenders to fasten the rails to the log. If you didn't get the rails, you may not get those either. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Al Weber]

I missed a couple of points in my last post. Looking at the RipSaw site I see they sell the entire guide rail system which includes the two rails and all the necessary mounting hardware for $210 shipped. That is a good price. Their rail system works very well. It is very rigid because of the way the two rail lengths come together. One issue with buying 8' or 10' rails has to do with how you plan to haul them to your site. It is easier to haul two 5' sections than one 10' under most circumstances but if your mill is stationary then it is academic. I'm sure you can come up with a shop built for a few bucks less. The question is whether you have time to do so. I think RipSaw sells parts and accessories for a fair price given the cost of raw materials today.

 

[BIG JAKE]

The wall thickness on the RipSaw rails is 1/8" and the outside dimensions are about 1 1/2" x 6". I'm not exactly sure on the outer dimensions but the thickness is correct. The rails are perfectly solid as they are but remember they are box beams and not U-beams. Don't forget there are end clamps and extenders to fasten the rails to the log. If you didn't get the rails, you may not get those either. Keep us posted on your progress.

Thanks Al-I may order a 25 footer and make my own or just buy theirs I don't know yet. 2 rails would likely handle it most of the time(11ft or so), but I'll need the occasional long doug fir beams here and there.