Ripsaw questions

[parrisw]

Hey, I have a line on a Ripsaw, he also has a 044 that he uses with it. Are they specific as to what saw goes on it? Or can I bolt one of my huskies to it? What are they worth used?? Anything else to watch for on them?

Thanks

 

[Al Weber]

They are not specific for the saw one can use with them but you may need some parts to adapt the Husky but I am not sure that is correct. The RipSaw manual says that Husky 365, 371 and 395 will fit. You can download the manual from the RipSaw website. I bought mine used (about 5 years old) a year ago for about 1/2 the current cost including the saw powerhead. It was in perfect shape; apparently having no recent use by an elderly gentleman but used gently when he did use it last. They are pretty simple units without too much to go wrong. Examine it for missing parts, stripped bolts, etc. but if it has been abused, you can likely see that as bent parts, etc. Make sure that all the guide rail parts are with it as they are not something you can find at the hardware store (except for knobs and bolts). The only major maintenance items are the bearings inside the covers. They can freeze up but are easily replaced and relatively inexpensive.

 

[AndyR]

To the best of my knowledge, in order ro change a particular ripsaw from stihl powered to husky powered you would need to change the mounting block on the ripsaw for everything to line up properly. There is a list of saws on this page that will work-but the ripsaws are set up differently for the stihls and huskies, I think. I think this list isn't conclusive either, there are probably other models that would fit it.
http://www.ripsaw.com/ripsaw.html

There's some good browsing/info on their website.

If you get it give the guy at SIR a call, he was really helpful with my questions.

For price, they go for around $1600 new. I'm guessing you might get a good deal from someone selling locally as opposed to on ebay. Mine came with an 036 stihl, 3 guide beams, the carriage unit (which I probably won't use until I can set it up somewhere more permanently), and a bunch of hardware. that was all for $1300.00 shipped. I've bought blades and some small parts for it and done a little work on the 036-nothing major. It's all ready to use, I just need to find the time and some more reasonable weather (supposed to be 95? today) to do so.

Good luck, and maybe do a search for ripsaw on here as well there is a lot of info.

Andy

 

[parrisw]

Thanks guys. Its an old guy, that apparently cant use the stuff anymore. But I think some of it may have been sitting outside. We shall see, I should go on monday to see it.

 

[Zodiac45]

I believe that the saw needs too have an inboard clutch with a spur gear type sprocket too work on the Ripsaw. Woodshop could tell you for sure though.

 

[woodshop]

I believe that the saw needs too have an inboard clutch with a spur gear type sprocket too work on the Ripsaw. Woodshop could tell you for sure though.

Ripsaws come in two flavors, Husky and Stihl... has to do with the way the oil hole lines up with the mount on the Ripsaw, which lubricates the Ripsaw gears. You can not mount a Stihl saw on a Ripsaw made for a Husky, or the other way around. You CAN buy that cast aluminum mounting block and swap it out, but it is pricey, and it would be cheaper to get a used saw to fit whatever block is already on it. You can get away with as little as a 50cc saw for the Ripsaw, as it takes much less power to push that blade through the cant than a chain. A 60cc saw like the Stihl MS361 is perfect, as much power as you will need. A bigger saw only makes the whole thing that much heavier, and is not really needed. On small cants, like 8 inches or less, with a new sharp blade, I don't even run the chainsaw full bore, as you can walk it down that cant almost as fast as you can walk at that thickness.

 

[Zodiac45]

Ripsaws come in two flavors, Husky and Stihl... has to do with the way the oil hole lines up with the mount on the Ripsaw, which lubricates the Ripsaw gears. You can not mount a Stihl saw on a Ripsaw made for a Husky, or the other way around. You CAN buy that cast aluminum mounting block and swap it out, but it is pricey, and it would be cheaper to get a used saw to fit whatever block is already on it. You can get away with as little as a 50cc saw for the Ripsaw, as it takes much less power to push that blade through the cant than a chain. A 60cc saw like the Stihl MS361 is perfect, as much power as you will need. A bigger saw only makes the whole thing that much heavier, and is not really needed. On small cants, like 8 inches or less, with a new sharp blade, I don't even run the chainsaw full bore, as you can walk it down that cant almost as fast as you can walk at that thickness.

That makes sense about the oil holes lining up. But I noticed that the Huskie saws that they list are inboard clutch models? And of course they show the spur gear as needed too drive the ripsaw.

 

[woodshop]

That makes sense about the oil holes lining up. But I noticed that the Huskie saws that they list are inboard clutch models? And of course they show the spur gear as needed too drive the ripsaw.

Good point, not sure... as zodiac says you do have to replace the sprocket with a spur gear that they supply, but it's a standard spur gear you can get from Bailey's etc. The fact that it was inboard wouldn't effect things, the gear would still stick out as far as before and connect to the Ripsaw.

Years ago I did look into buying a second cast aluminum connector section on my Ripsaw so I could swap it out and use a Husky, but as I said, it was expensive, and swapping it out was not a particularly easy task so I dropped the idea.

 

[parrisw]

Ok, I went and looked at it, its a little rough, since its been sitting around, some aluminum corrosion on the band pully's, I think it can all be cleaned up easy. He want's to sell it with 2 powerheads. 1 044 and 1 046mag, boths saws look like very low time, he figures the 046 had only just been started to make sure it ran thats it. He wants $1000 for everything. Seems like a good deal? I think I will get it.

 

[dustytools]

Ok, I went and looked at it, its a little rough, since its been sitting around, some aluminum corrosion on the band pully's, I think it can all be cleaned up easy. He want's to sell it with 2 powerheads. 1 044 and 1 046mag, boths saws look like very low time, he figures the 046 had only just been started to make sure it ran thats it. He wants $1000 for everything. Seems like a good deal? I think I will get it.

Sounds like one helluva deal! Go for it.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Sounds like one helluva deal! Go for it.

+1

 

[woodshop]

+1

Two saws that size in working order and a Ripsaw (assuming complete with guide bar and brackets etc) for a grand... that's way less than half price. Deal if you don't mind tweaking things a bit maybe... one never knows in deals like this how the equipment was taken care of, bearings etc, alignment of parts etc. But you sure can't beat the price. In fact, at that price if you're handy with tools, you can pretty much fix anything broke and still come out ahead as long as it isn't major.

 

[parrisw]

Yes everything is there, I had a good look, the alu beam, all the attachment stuff, the supports for the end of the log. The saws too are in real nice shape.

 

[parrisw]

Another question. He has at least an extra 6 blades for it, which he says have never been used, but they are all rusty. Should I just run them, and hope they will clean up when they go through the wood? Or soak them in something like Diesel?? And how to sharpen and set the blades?

 

[Al Weber]

I had the same rusty blades when I bought my used RipSaw. They weren't too bad so I just ran them and they cleaned up quickly. If they are real bad, soak them or spray them with WD40 and wipe them down first to keep the rust out of the saw. The RipSaw manual gives directions for sharpening as does a decal on the saw itself. They are pretty easy. I just use a 5/32" diamond stone in a rotary tool. I can get two and sometimes three sharpenings before they break.

Go for it. The saws alone are worth more than the asking price.

 

[parrisw]

Got all the stuff today. He must of bought extra sections of the guide beam, cause there is 5 of them there. Pics to come later.

 

[parrisw]

Got it all taken apart, cleaned up. One thing I cant get undone is the guide blocks, the little allen head bolts that hold the little brass blocks. I got them soaking in WD40 now, maybe a little heat will get them loose.

One question, how do you join the rails together? The instructions don't make much sense.

 

[woodshop]

Got it all taken apart, cleaned up. One thing I cant get undone is the guide blocks, the little allen head bolts that hold the little brass blocks. I got them soaking in WD40 now, maybe a little heat will get them loose.

One question, how do you join the rails together? The instructions don't make much sense.

They are designed with internal expansion bolts... you screw those allen heads in the holes on the side of the beam to loosen them, slide a section together and then tighten the same bolts which tightens the mechanism and it is then a solid beam. That way there is nothing sticking out to catch on. It only comes with 2 five foot sections so if there are 5 you got a deal. You can mill up to a 25ft long board/cant if you so choose if you hooked them all together and supported them along the log.

More questions... just ask.

 

[parrisw]

They are designed with internal expansion bolts... you screw those allen heads in the holes on the side of the beam to loosen them, slide a section together and then tighten the same bolts which tightens the mechanism and it is then a solid beam. That way there is nothing sticking out to catch on. It only comes with 2 five foot sections so if there are 5 you got a deal. You can mill up to a 25ft long board/cant if you so choose if you hooked them all together and supported them along the log.

More questions... just ask.

Cool, that makes sense. But they were also talking about supporting pins or something in the manual when joining the sections? When milling a long beam, when you support the guide beam how do you make sure it straight? Just eyeball it?

I still cant get the dam screws undone for the blade guide blocks. GRRRR

 

[AndyR]

Got all the stuff today. He must of bought extra sections of the guide beam, cause there is 5 of them there. Pics to come later.

The guy you bought that from must have been cutting beams...I can't imagine why you would need other lumber that long (floor joists maybe). Mine came with three guide beams and I was pretty happy about that.

Congrats, sounds like you got a good deal.