Ripsaw questions

[parrisw]

Ya, maybe.

One other question. Now about attaching the adjustment bed? What was there with it was a plastic knob for tightening and undoing, but its a large knob and hits the muffler of the saw??? Also when fully tightened down, it doesn't hold the bed tight against the frame?

 

[parrisw]

I think I may sorta have the mounting sorta figured, I looked at the manual again. Whats the purpose of the guide finger?

 

[parrisw]

Ok, I got it figured, its got a really long threaded rod, that goes on the side closest to the saw. Im just missing the sleeve that goes over it, have to find something that works for that.

 

[parrisw]

One other thing, its kinda noisy, is that the way they are. I ran it with the saw on it. Kinda sounds like a rattle trap?

 

[woodshop]

I think I may sorta have the mounting sorta figured, I looked at the manual again. Whats the purpose of the guide finger?

That guide finger keeps the far end of the Ripsaw from pulling itself into the side of the log when milling, especially when starting out. As I've posted before, over the years I've taken it off and just use my hand/fingers holding on to that large black knob to kinda guide it down the log myself. That takes a little getting used to though.

Noise... there is some gear noise, and blade running around the wheels noise when it's running, but shouldn't be all that much. If it's rattling excessively, check other connections and find out where. Mine doesn't rattle, it vibrates just like the chainsaw does, but there shouldn't be anything lose to rattle.

 

[parrisw]

That guide finger keeps the far end of the Ripsaw from pulling itself into the side of the log when milling, especially when starting out. As I've posted before, over the years I've taken it off and just use my hand/fingers holding on to that large black knob to kinda guide it down the log myself. That takes a little getting used to though.

Noise... there is some gear noise, and blade running around the wheels noise when it's running, but shouldn't be all that much. If it's rattling excessively, check other connections and find out where. Mine doesn't rattle, it vibrates just like the chainsaw does, but there shouldn't be anything lose to rattle.

Ya, I think it's just a bit of vibration.

OK, I NEED HELP, I got it all running, cut a few boards. The cuts are FREAKIN REALLY WAVY, I'm talking like waves you can surf on. Probably like 3/8" high waves. The blade looks to have good set, not sure how sharp. The guide blocks are a little loose, those could go tighter? Could that do it?

So I went back to the trusty Alaskan to get some work done, then one of the freakin U-clamps broke. Geeze, I can't catch a break today.
Many thanks.

Will

 

[parrisw]

Went to the local tool place that does allot of bandsaw stuff, and ordered a couple of new blades. They make them there, I guess they have bulk rolls of bandsaw blades, and make up the right lengths. $20 each.

 

[woodshop]

Went to the local tool place that does allot of bandsaw stuff, and ordered a couple of new blades. They make them there, I guess they have bulk rolls of bandsaw blades, and make up the right lengths. $20 each.

Be careful... if not the EXACT correct length it's hard to get tension right from blade to blade. Make sure teeth/angle etc are same or who knows what kind of results you might get. Also, if ordered from S.I.R (Ripsaw folks) they are only $17 per blade to your door if order 12. I've been told by others in this forum that there are other places online that sell them even cheaper than that. I've not tried them yet since the Ripsaw factory ones have worked so well that I've not tried them yet. I know buying 12 at a time is a chunck of money, but trust me, you will use them.

 

[Nikko]

When you use wavy and bandsaw in the same sentence it usually means a dull blade. Pretty sure a new one will get you going.

Nice score on the saw!

Nikko

 

[woodshop]

Ya, I think it's just a bit of vibration.

OK, I NEED HELP, I got it all running, cut a few boards. The cuts are FREAKIN REALLY WAVY, I'm talking like waves you can surf on. Probably like 3/8" high waves. The blade looks to have good set, not sure how sharp. The guide blocks are a little loose, those could go tighter? Could that do it?

So I went back to the trusty Alaskan to get some work done, then one of the freakin U-clamps broke. Geeze, I can't catch a break today.
Many thanks.

Will

If the blade tension is not high enough even a sharp new blade will give you wavy cuts. Of course a dull blade will do that also. A dull blade that is also not tensioned properly is just a lesson in frustration.

 

[parrisw]

Thanks I'll try these, he measured it and came out with 89.5" I'll let ya know how it all goes.

 

[parrisw]

Well got the new blades today. The look nice. But one slight problem. The teeth go in the opposite direction? DAMIT, was hoping to try it out today.

 

[mossywyatt]

you have the blade inside out

 

[woodshop]

you have the blade inside out

...correct, flip it inside out.

It's OK, in my haste I put a chain on backwards one time and tried to cut with it.

 

[parrisw]

...correct, flip it inside out.

It's OK, in my haste I put a chain on backwards one time and tried to cut with it.

Yes, thanks, I got it figured.

Ok, more questions.

Got the new blade on, it cuts very well. But it still giving me the odd wave in it, much smaller wave. I got 2 decent cuts out of it, another 2 not so good. How do you set the guide blocks. Ive seen to use two pieces of paper above and below the blade, and I've seen to use 1 piece. What to do. Also it seems when I get a wave in the cut, most of the time its on a knot?

Also the finger guide to prevent the saw from pulling itself into the wood. What if your cutting wide planks, it wont work? and when just using the beam laying ontop of the cant without the end blocks, it only adjusts barely down enough to touch the cant, and wants to hop over and pull the whole works off the cant.

Sure hope I can get this sorted soon. I'm making a bunch of waste lumber.

 

[scottr]

Will, from some of your previous descriptions of your Ripsaw it sounds like you have the older model like mine. First mine is also the 044 model and it vibrates a lot, second proper blade tension is to torque the 3/4" tension nut until the indicator just lines up to the white mark then back off about one half of a turn. If you don't back off the the tension nut you'll be breaking blakes prematurely. The dimension plate will slide up to the top of the throat to give you a 9" depth of cut. Have you downloaded the owners manual from the Ripsaw website?

 

[parrisw]

Will, from some of your previous descriptions of your Ripsaw it sounds like you have the older model like mine. First mine is also the 044 model and it vibrates a lot, second proper blade tension is to torque the 3/4" tension nut until the indicator just lines up to the white mark then back off about one half of a turn. If you don't back off the the tension nut you'll be breaking blakes prematurely. The dimension plate will slide up to the top of the throat to give you a 9" depth of cut. Have you downloaded the owners manual from the Ripsaw website?

I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?

 

[woodshop]

I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?

Thanks Scottr for chiming in here.

If your cuts are wavy, either you have a dull blade or you don't have enough blade tension. The guide blocks, in my personal opinion, unless they are WAY opened up, are not your problem. I have not reset mine in the entire life of my Ripsaw, many thousands of bd ft of lumber. Yes you will be more apt to run into a little wavy cut when you hit a hard knot, but my experience has been that that only happens when my blade is starting to get dull. A new blade and proper tension will blow through even a hard knot. I have found that it sometimes helps to feed the saw at a slight angle through a knot like you are describing when my blade starts to get dull, and that often helps.

Yes, that guide finger does have to be taken off when milling very wide boards, like 12-14 inches. This is the reason I took it off and use my hand/fingers wrapped around that large black knob for all my milling.

The Ripsaw, like ALL shop type equipment (and I have a shop full so I can speak from experience) takes some tweaking and learning the ropes. Common sense, some trial and error and patience are in order. Tension... as scottr says, use that tension guide on top of the Ripsaw. If you are getting wavy cuts, crank it up half or quarter turn and try again (all other things staying same). It's a mechanical device and does respond in logical manner if you take the time to work through problems step by step. Worse case scenario is either you will break the blade, or I've found more likely you will crank it so hard that you will start to torque the whole Ripsaw frame to the point where the blade won't track correctly. I have done that several times, and that's a definite sign that you have it too tight and need to back off a bit.

Read the manual... then reread the manual and take it a step at a time. You can also call Ripsaw or email them with questions.

 

[scottr]

I've looked through the manual. yes. It is the older model, it was purchased in the mid 90's. I'll try to reset the tension. Could that be causing wavy cuts? Anything else to check?

Yes, if the band does not have enough tension it can cause wavy cuts. Pushing heavy on the saw could also cause wavy cuts. Remember to try not to over feed the saw when you come to knots. You are using a ripping blade to make a cross cut when sawing a knot.

 

[scottr]

Yes, thanks, I got it figured.

Ok, more questions.

Got the new blade on, it cuts very well. But it still giving me the odd wave in it, much smaller wave. I got 2 decent cuts out of it, another 2 not so good. How do you set the guide blocks. Ive seen to use two pieces of paper above and below the blade, and I've seen to use 1 piece. What to do. Also it seems when I get a wave in the cut, most of the time its on a knot?

Also the finger guide to prevent the saw from pulling itself into the wood. What if your cutting wide planks, it wont work? and when just using the beam laying ontop of the cant without the end blocks, it only adjusts barely down enough to touch the cant, and wants to hop over and pull the whole works off the cant.

Sure hope I can get this sorted soon. I'm making a bunch of waste lumber.

Will, the guide adjustment directions that came with my old 1996 Ripsaw says to place the paper between the blade and the top carbide block then using vise grips or pliers squeeze the carbides together and tighten the screws.