rockin 4 minute vid
- Thread starter murphy4trees
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Pretty crazy stuff murph.
Personally, I would never try to pull a tree with that much backlean - at least not one over a structure.
I used to have a groundman that used to suggest things like that from time to time.. I would always look at him like he was a moron. That's not saying I haven't done some crazy ####, but I really don't like to push it that much.. too much drama for me.
Personally, I would never try to pull a tree with that much backlean - at least not one over a structure.
I used to have a groundman that used to suggest things like that from time to time.. I would always look at him like he was a moron. That's not saying I haven't done some crazy ####, but I really don't like to push it that much.. too much drama for me.
Treetom
ArboristSite Guru
Entertaining
So far, so good, Daniel. You do some scary things with trees that I would not do. Just wondering if both trees dropped exactly as planned or were you just a little off, especially on the maple that hung up in the adjacent tree?Remember Murpy's Law when you're dropping those trees
. I sense danger in a few of your recent videos. Take care.
So far, so good, Daniel. You do some scary things with trees that I would not do. Just wondering if both trees dropped exactly as planned or were you just a little off, especially on the maple that hung up in the adjacent tree?Remember Murpy's Law when you're dropping those trees
. I sense danger in a few of your recent videos. Take care.
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
All right. So...I don't know whether to jump up and down clapping and congratulate you for your obvious skill and compliment the size of your cojones for pulling that #### off or to bash you for being a loose cannon who takes far too extensive risks in the name of saving a few minutes of time on a job.
Either way, I must say, your skid steer operator is top notch and you should buy him a beer.
Either way, I must say, your skid steer operator is top notch and you should buy him a beer.
flushcut
Addicted to ArboristSite
:agree2: and I think you might be a little crazy.So far, so good, Daniel. You do some scary things with trees that I would not do. Just wondering if both trees dropped exactly as planned or were you just a little off, especially on the maple that hung up in the adjacent tree?Remember Murpy's Law when you're dropping those trees
Burvol
Bullbuck
nice video Daniel
Here's a tip you might want to try: Once tension is set, start your back cut, then once you are in, get a wedge or two started directly in the back. Saw up, pound a few times and your in. Face it and pull. We do basically the same thing out West but with out tension. Jacks or wedges in the back first for extreme leaners. You don't lose as much on the lean that way.
Good job
Here's a tip you might want to try: Once tension is set, start your back cut, then once you are in, get a wedge or two started directly in the back. Saw up, pound a few times and your in. Face it and pull. We do basically the same thing out West but with out tension. Jacks or wedges in the back first for extreme leaners. You don't lose as much on the lean that way.
Good job
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've never considered this technique, Burv, and I was wondering if you'd care to elaborate on it. The above sentence in particular. Thanks.
Burvol
Bullbuck
If you start backing up a tree first (within reason) and get a wedge in behind your bar, the tree has less time to sit back farther. When you face a tree that is leaning back, the tension released from sawing in a face allows the crucial holding or tension side wood to be comprimised. Then when the back cut is started, the crucial tension is lowered even further and the tree will begin to sit back quicker. When going in from the back, the crucial tension wood is not comprimised. Now granted, you cannot get too greedy and need to calculate the situation, but when you start the cut from the back, get a wedge in, you have lost zero degrees on the lean. You can watch a tree sit back farther when you put a face in it. There's your lost ground that you have to pound back up to be at the same spot the tree was originally at. In hard leaning tall timber it is way easier with this method- cheers
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you start backing up a tree first (within reason) and get a wedge in behind your bar, the tree has less time to sit back farther. When you face a tree that is leaning back, the tension released from sawing in a face allows the crucial holding or tension side wood to be comprimised. Then when the back cut is started, the crucial tension is lowered even further and the tree will begin to sit back quicker. When going in from the back, the crucial tension wood is not comprimised. Now granted, you cannot get too greedy and need to calculate the situation, but when you start the cut from the back, get a wedge in, you have lost zero degrees on the lean. You can watch a tree sit back farther when you put a face in it. There's your lost ground that you have to pound back up to be at the same spot the tree was originally at. In hard leaning tall timber it is way easier with this method- cheers
That makes sense. Thanks for the insight.
You're livin on the edge Daniel
Have you enjoyed an adrenaline rush lately? "You're flirtin' with disaster man ya'll know what I mean." Really not tryin to start anything here or be critical but would like to share a couple things that work well for me in similar situations.
Set pull rope and test. (Pull harder than I think I will need to.) Back off a bit and try and place just enough tension on rope to HOLD weight of tree. (Less than enough is better, as to much will increase chance of barber chair.) Especially on smaller trees like these two, I like to get right down close to the ground (longer hinge = better) and start with the back cut. As soon as saw is far enough along, I place wedge behind bar into backcut and 1 tap with palm of hand. Then as I continue with the back cut I watch the wedge. If it starts to drop (back cut opening) at all, I stop and slack off on pull rope. If wedge gets tight (back cut closing) I stop and increase tension on pull rope. If I can't pull hard enough to get wedge to come back loose, I need more grunt. Once I've found that neutral point (kerf is not opening or closing) I make the face cut, finish the back cut, and go pull the tree over.
Since I have a "pulling force" I can leave the hinge wood nearly twice as thick as in typical felling, increasing control. Having that "pulling force" as close as possible to directly opposite the lean is also key.
Have you enjoyed an adrenaline rush lately? "You're flirtin' with disaster man ya'll know what I mean." Really not tryin to start anything here or be critical but would like to share a couple things that work well for me in similar situations.
Set pull rope and test. (Pull harder than I think I will need to.) Back off a bit and try and place just enough tension on rope to HOLD weight of tree. (Less than enough is better, as to much will increase chance of barber chair.) Especially on smaller trees like these two, I like to get right down close to the ground (longer hinge = better) and start with the back cut. As soon as saw is far enough along, I place wedge behind bar into backcut and 1 tap with palm of hand. Then as I continue with the back cut I watch the wedge. If it starts to drop (back cut opening) at all, I stop and slack off on pull rope. If wedge gets tight (back cut closing) I stop and increase tension on pull rope. If I can't pull hard enough to get wedge to come back loose, I need more grunt. Once I've found that neutral point (kerf is not opening or closing) I make the face cut, finish the back cut, and go pull the tree over.
Since I have a "pulling force" I can leave the hinge wood nearly twice as thick as in typical felling, increasing control. Having that "pulling force" as close as possible to directly opposite the lean is also key.
If somebody forced me to try that..
I might have had better luck with my 3/4" bull rope, more of a birdmouth on the box, and my tractor winch. Norway Maple sort of sucks for holding wood though..
I might have had better luck with my 3/4" bull rope, more of a birdmouth on the box, and my tractor winch. Norway Maple sort of sucks for holding wood though..
Nailsbeats
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice video Murphy. I like to see the limits being pushed a bit, obvious by that maple hangup. I know it was your job and you had it figured though. That's the game risk vs. reward with a little know how mixed in.
treeclimber101
UNCLE BUCK
I am pretty sure that you coulda ripped that tree down by the roots , maybe a barberchair, but when you put a rubber track against a swamp maple in wet soil ASV always wins , the facecut was just for the camera .....Good Job maybe throw alittle PANTERA in your soundtrack selections ...
lawson's tree s
ArboristSite Operative
Nice Video ..
ForTheArborist
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can someone elaborate why this job was supposedly such a big risk? I can't see it falling anywhere except backwards or 90 degrees of the rope to either side.
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
My brother!!!
That's what I AM talking about!
See that.. finally someone who understands
My brother!!!
That's what I AM talking about!
See that.. finally someone who understands
What you trolling now Murphy?
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
Na... well maybe.. actually nope..
just telling it like it is.
those little maples tight lined to a 5,700 lb machine with a good notch and backcut, they aren;t going back, that's for sure.. so what are the other options?
ps.. the heartwood on both trees was all punky, might have had 2" of good wood on the corners of both notches/hinges.. still no worries... little stump shot to create a lip, and the holding wood didn;t matter that much as long as the pull was directly against the lean.. first one only had to get pulled out of the tree it was hung in, then we stopped pulling and let gravity take over.. second one if I had to do over again, I'd have taken a little more care with the direction of pull, adusting it to compensate for the other side of the pull line, being tied slighty off the lay, at the first stump
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ForTheArborist
Addicted to ArboristSite
You engineered a few good operations to say the least. Obviously the brains are there. These were not operations for the nil and dandy. I'm sure it's all been tried before though. It's just that after the fools that tried it before blew the whole operation, they knew they would never live down the shame of demonstrating their "talents" here on AS.com.
Great demo
Great demo
