I have tried normal saw chain but it likes to stick in the cut the stuff I linked seems to work well and cut pretty fast.The stuff you can buy for most part is junk. I make my own. When properly set up priceless. Thanks
When you used saw chain how did you format or sequence it. I am not aware of any rope saw that is not made from saw chain. The rope saws are mostly just real cheap saw chain. I have use both two cutters and four cutters. For big hard wood limbs I think very conservative on rakers works the best. It seems to take a bit of finesse to get the chain set up perfect for very dried Oak limbs. ThanksI have tried normal saw chain but it likes to stick in the cut the stuff I linked seems to work well and cut pretty fast.
Could you post a picWhen you used saw chain how did you format or sequence it. I am not aware of any rope saw that is not made from saw chain. The rope saws are mostly just real cheap saw chain. I have use both two cutters and four cutters. For big hard wood limbs I think very conservative on rakers works the best. It seems to take a bit of finesse to get the chain set up perfect for very dried Oak limbs. Thanks
What do you want to know ThanksCould you post a pic
How your orenting youre cuttersWhat
What do you want to know Thanks
I bought a few rope saws as gifts for Xmas that used V-teeth like vintage pruners/ firewood saws; (now see probablylike your photo?) grandson was thrilled and ran out back and cleared a 4-INCH TREE in seconds. I was amazed/ impressed, previously only used the chainsaw cutter style w/ pair of 25-35-ft ropes for high limbs.https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...-replacement-blade/909151/p-1444421206981.htm
anyone know where I’d be able to find a roll of this stuff
I ended up buying a rope chainsaw similar to one that was ready to go like this one in the video.I am going to try to set up at least one diagram with a sequence that does work for many types of cuts. It is important to set two three or four cutters going one way then the same number on the other side going the opposite way. You will get less binding if the cutters are going both ways. Or if you pull with your right hand you want a few sections cutting that way. Then when you pull with your left hand you want the same number of cutters cutting that way. I have never found a perfect way to make sure the chain always lands on the cutting side so I make both the top side and the bottom side the same. If the chain has solid cutters continuous it will for sure bind up quick. So each chain needs some spacing that only allow a few cutters cutting at any one time. I have used up to four feet of chain on a rope. Once perfected there is no end of the impressive jobs one can do safely. I have pulled down rotting trees that are not safe. Of course I charge a fortune and why not. So as a starting point. Two cutters going to the right then two spaces for the bottom cutters going the same way then two cutters going the opposite way then two spaces for the two cutters on the bottom going the opposite way then repeat. Hopefully that helps getting one started. I buy about twenty five splicing links for under ten bucks and then go for it. I have burnt up most of a day making a chain. Once done the chain can last many years. Or make one an odd three cutters at a time or two cutters at a time just so they balance. The drive links I usually round off a bit or eliminate them completely. Thanks
My ropes are a little over a hundred feet long. When you start working with trees over a hundred feet tall is when you feel like you are earning your way. Yes using two people is a little less exhausting but still not easy. ThanksI bought a few rope saws as gifts for Xmas that used V-teeth like vintage pruners/ firewood saws; grandson was thrilled and ran out back and cleared a 4-INCH TREE in seconds. I was amazed/ impressed, previously only used the chainsaw cutter style w/ pair of 25-35-ft ropes for high limbs.
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