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TreeAce

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Anyone use this thing?
Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid

It looks like it would work. Maybe
I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.
 
wonder if the backside of that thing might catch up if ya gotta do a little flipping? seems like a good idea tho
 
Anyone use this thing?
Tree Stuff - RopeShield Installation Aid

It looks like it would work. Maybe
I was dead wooding a bunch of trees the other day and was setting lines for SRT and was getting pissed. I have noticed that tieing the throw line to a tight eye def helps but even then I was having trouble. Its enough to make me insane. If the line woulda set the first time I hit what appeared to be the perfect spot, I bet i woulda shaved 10-15 minutes per tree. So if it works I have no problem paying 50 bucks.
He is a member here, Treepedo, I met him at the TCIA expo, good guy. Canadian as well!
 
Here's a full picture of it, it works pretty well. There is an internal weight that you remove after you shoot it. and you fish your 1/2 line through it the shield just keeps it from getting snagged. it does go through crotches a lot better than a standard throw weight. a tad on the pricey side tho.

IMG_5095.jpg
 
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Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both?

When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.

Shaun
 
Is your problem getting the throwbag stuck, or not being able to pull the rope back through a tight crotch? Or both?

When pulling back through tight crotches, I tie the throw line onto my rope with a clove hitch about 3-4" from the end, then a half hitch about 1 1/2" from the end, and another half hitch right at the very end. If you take a minute to tension the half hitches and get the last one set right at the very end of the rope it goes a lot better. If that last half hitch is even 1/2" from the end it causes problems.

Shaun

The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.
 
The part thats killing me is getting the rope to come through. I tie the throw line to the rope exactly as you described. Also being sure to get that last half hitch right on the very end of the rope. Just seems like one sucker is enough to make it a huge PITA. I think I may give that thing a try.

It works very well get the whole kit. That thing is like an ICBM the big shot will really throw it.


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?wi4nd0
 
I wasnt really planning on getting the whole shebang like you have but maybe? Does it richochet bad?

Ya it can bounce off of something. i wouldn't want to shoot it towards someones house it will definitely take out a window. It has some cool features watch his videos on YouTube.
 
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There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

Shaun
 
There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

Shaun
The second suggestion sounds interesting. So you tie the clove hitch to the end of the rope and leave the throw bag on the end of the throw line about a 1ft or so from the clove hitch? I think I understand. I will remember that one. thx
 
There's a couple of other tricks I use for getting rope through tight places, but you probably know them already. One is that I try to get as far away from the tree as possible with the pull line, and in extreme cases send a groundie as far out the other side as possible with the rope. This way you're pulling sideways rather than up and down. The groundie can whip the rope sometimes too. This only works with tall trees without much canopy low down obviously.

The second one I learnt from another tree guy a ways back. I don't remove the throw weight from the line. I leave it on, but I tie the clove hitch about 1-1.5 feet in from the throw weight. So the throw weight is hanging down below the rope. As it gets to the crotch, you can sometimes flick the weight and it pulls the rope through. It seems to help quite a bit.

Shaun

I use that little trick too. A good little snap will often get the bag right over
 
The second suggestion sounds interesting. So you tie the clove hitch to the end of the rope and leave the throw bag on the end of the throw line about a 1ft or so from the clove hitch? I think I understand. I will remember that one. thx

I made a quick vid to illustrate the point. The distance from the end I use is about 3-4", and the length of throwline between the clove hitch and the throw weight depends on how high you are, and how heavy your bag is. For a 12 ounce and a low throw you only need about 4", high high up you're going to need a lot more distance otherwise you wont be able to swing the throwbag. When you get it right, the rope actually jumps over the crotch as you can see in the vid.

In the first example with success at about 1:41 (it takes me 2 goes to get it) I'm not touching the rope, you get the swing purely by manipulating the throwline. This works great on smooth bark trees. On rough/spongey bark trees with lots of friction you only get one flick. In the second example I've got the rope in one hand and the throw line in another. This was is a lot easier. Sorry about the crappy audio, my camera is pretty old.

[video=youtube_share;xoe5cpMC958]http://youtu.be/xoe5cpMC958[/video]
 
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I made a quick vid to illustrate the point. The distance from the end I use is about 3-4", and the length of throwline between the clove hitch and the throw weight depends on how high you are, and how heavy your bag is. For a 12 ounce and a low throw you only need about 4", high high up you're going to need a lot more distance otherwise you wont be able to swing the throwbag. When you get it right, the rope actually jumps over the crotch as you can see in the vid.

In the first example with success at about 1:41 (it takes me 2 goes to get it) I'm not touching the rope, you get the swing purely by manipulating the throwline. This works great on smooth bark trees. On rough/spongey bark trees with lots of friction you only get one flick. In the second example I've got the rope in one hand and the throw line in another. This was is a lot easier. Sorry about the crappy audio, my camera is pretty old.

[video=youtube_share;xoe5cpMC958]http://youtu.be/xoe5cpMC958[/video]
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. Its much appreciated. I am def gonna try that some time!
 
Plastic part from a tampon.....honest. Been using them for years. Always good for a joke too with the box in the truck.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Plastic part from a tampon.....honest. Been using them for years. Always good for a joke too with the box in the truck.:hmm3grin2orange:

could help with a bloody nose to? like a swiss army knife multi tool. set your rope and plug any hole that needs plugged with it.
 
Here is a picture of a throw weight I made for myself out of an old plumb bob. Drilled a small hole straight through the bob, with a large hole for the rope end about 1/3 of the way through. I have the throw line knotted on either side of the bob, enough so that I can pile hitch to the end of the rope and pull it up snug into the bob as shown. It weighs 13 oz.

102_1546.jpg
 
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