Saw cleaning? How do you do it?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DexterDay

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
1,988
Reaction score
2,678
Location
Right about there
I'm sure everyone has a little trick or their own little recipe. But what is the preferred method you use to clean a dirty/oily mess of a saw when you are going to work on it? (To break it down. Not just a quick clean after a day of cutting)
Compressed air? Cyl on, seal intake and exhaust and warm soapy water, soft brush and lots of time, etc.

What products do you use?
Simple Green, Purple power, Fantastic, warm soapy water?

I have been doing it "my way" and know there has to be an easier and faster way to clean these things. Compressed air while mostly together, then do almost everything individually with a rag and whatever cleaner is in the garage.

So what is "your way"?

Thanks in advance.

Pics to come.. (036 Pro)
 
I was using simple greed/purple power/etc. and a scrub brush. Lately though, I just take them to work and use the parts washer. The solvent doesn't cut the really baked on crap all that well, but it's better than the other stuff. Blow it off with compressed air when I'm done.
 
Although it's not cheap you can cut oil build up really fast with carb cleaner. Mineral spirits clean individual parts very well. But if you're planning on just removing the cylinder and keeping junk from falling in the crankcase use carb cleaner. Let it soak and use low pressure air to blow the crud off. I don't recommend using air to clean anything around the carb or fuel/ impulse lines.
 
Although it's not cheap you can cut oil build up really fast with carb cleaner. Mineral spirits clean individual parts very well. But if you're planning on just removing the cylinder and keeping junk from falling in the crankcase use carb cleaner. Let it soak and use low pressure air to blow the crud off. I don't recommend using air to clean anything around the carb or fuel/ impulse lines.

I have used Carb cleaner in the past, and still use it for internal parts or non critical components. But the problem I have seen, is it fades Husq Orange to an almost white color and it makes the Stihl white lose its lack luster shine.

But, on the other hand, it does work great.
 
I use compressed air to knock off most of the crud. Once that's done, I have a good quality parts brush that works great. I use WD-40 as a de-greaser, as it won't harm plastic rubber or aluminum. I have a gallon of Simple Green that hasn't been opened as of yet. I've heard it works well. One of these days, I'll find out first-hand.

I also have a long skinny screw driver that I use to pick at the hard stuff that's been petrified. Anyways, that's how I go about cleaning up a saw.
 
I have used Carb cleaner in the past, and still use it for internal parts or non critical components. But the problem I have seen, is it fades Husq Orange to an almost white color and it makes the Stihl white lose its lack luster shine.

But, on the other hand, it does work great.


Carb cleaner, as you know by now, will destroy plastic and nylon. I NEVER use it on those.

Brake cleaner is a safer bet, but will still harm certain plastics.
 
I have used Carb cleaner in the past, and still use it for internal parts or non critical components. But the problem I have seen, is it fades Husq Orange to an almost white color and it makes the Stihl white lose its lack luster shine.

But, on the other hand, it does work great.
That's why I recommended only using it around cylinder bases. Plus there are times the cylinder bolt heads fill up with gunk and the carb cleaner really works well with that. Plastic pieces nothing is more convenient than Dawn
 
Between uses, I use a nylon brush and compressed air everywhere.

For a tear-down, first the brush and compressed air followed by a hot bath in Dawn. Hand dry with dry rag. I used to use carb cleaner, but tend to use brake cleaner more, as carb cleaner has a mild corrosive in it that will remove paint and take the shine off metal and plastics.
 
And the next time you take it apart, even if it's only seen a few hours cutting and you blew it off with compressed air from the outside after use, it will still be totally filthy in every crevice.
 
I always use my compressor with just an open hose, I fill the compressor than open the regulator about halfway and start blowing. for stubborn stuff hold the hose closer, this prevents breaking stuff and you get less stuff in your face than a big blast from a air gun.
 
Between uses, I use a nylon brush and compressed air everywhere.

For a tear-down, first the brush and compressed air followed by a hot bath in Dawn. Hand dry with dry rag. I used to use carb cleaner, but tend to use brake cleaner more, as carb cleaner has a mild corrosive in it that will remove paint and take the shine off metal and plastics.

Do you dunk the entire case assembly?

Warm water and soap prob wouldn't hurt anything?

I've heard of people dipping the case in the sink with the cyl off, but never have done it personally.
 
Simple Green or LA's Totally Awesome for most stuff. Carb or brake cleaner, or WD40 for stubborn stuff. Compressed air, brushes, rags.
 
I use WD40 to soften up stuff. For parts that can come off, purple power cut 50% with water. Carb cleaner very carefully. It eats paint. Brake cleaner when I remember to buy it, but still be careful. Assortment of brushes and small picks.
 
Blow it out as well as possible with HIGH pressure. Then soak it with PP and let it sit. Then hit it with the hose on high. Obviously you have to stop up the carb, not jet water into the muffler (don't worry about a splash), not blow into holes on the metering side of the carb, and run it when you are done.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top