Saw cleaning? How do you do it?

[pyankura]

I use Zep degreaser concentrated and then hot water through a hose. Then I use wd40 cause I found out from my race quads the Zep will dry rubber stuff out. The wd40 is nice because it keeps a film on it that helps to keep crud from sticking. I've used most every degreaser and find the Zep to be pretty good stuff. It also works well on coils for Hvac too.

 

[exSW]

Weren't there a couple of people swearing about the virtues of dishwashers?

 

[DexterDay]

What about inside the crank? Say I wanna soak the Crank in the Sink? With outthe cyl on and piston off? Warm soapy water in the bottom end?

After removal, dry, and wash with Mix? Light blow from compressor? Rinse with mix, light blow from compressor?

The bottom end is fine, but I just want to soak the saw and I am working on the cyl now? Wanted to soak it while I work?

Would that be o.k.?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Weren't there a couple of people swearing about the virtues of dishwashers?

Oh yeah.

 

[JBA]

Use the purple stuff most of the time. Was out over the summer and tried S100 . Made for cleaning motorcycles. Did a decent job but its not overly powerful. It does get the grime right off the Harley!!!

 

[Scoutillac]

Although it's not cheap you can cut oil build up really fast with carb cleaner. Mineral spirits clean individual parts very well. But if you're planning on just removing the cylinder and keeping junk from falling in the crankcase use carb cleaner. Let it soak and use low pressure air to blow the crud off. I don't recommend using air to clean anything around the carb or fuel/ impulse lines.

I like to go with brake clean as i does not evaporate as quickly carb cleaner. A little air, nylon brush and shop towels. If if it really nasty I toss it in the parts washer, rinse, scrub, soak, and repeat till it is acceptable to you. When that is not enough I will take selected parts and give them a quick sweep blast. I like things as clean as I can get them.

 

[fearofpavement]

I use compressed air, several types of brushes, putty knife, small screwdriver, solvent tank filled with jet fuel, brake kleen, carb cleaner, wd-40. I never use anything water based. Mostly air, brush, solvent.
I don't generally "detail" saws. Just clean them for operational purposes. I don't have any shelf queens. If I did, I probably would use additional methods.

 

[DexterDay]

Here is a pic of the culprit. An 036 Pro that I plan on trading off. I just want to clean it as I go through it. Bottom end is good, as is the top end, but wanted to tear it all the way down to be sure. No surprises when the next guy gets it (pretty sure I have a trade inthe works, so it's not gonna be for trade here).

I have dealt with the guy I am trading with before and just want to make sure it's a solid saw. The saw I am cleaning is a pretty new saw. By model number, it's much newer than my 036 Pro (mint )

Also tearing my 036 Pro down to delete the base gasket, put in some cabers, and do my 1st light port job on it. Not raising or lowering the ports, just cleaning up and gonna try and match the ports. After reading a million threads and and speaking with Randy. I feel I can do a decent job. I'm not looking for full on Woods port. Just a little here, and a little there. Heck, I'm prob gonna take so little, it won't matter. But, I have to start somewhere.

Thanks for all the ideas.

Now, what about the warm soapy water in the Crankcase? If a little gets in? Rinse with mix, blow with air (lightly), mix, etc?

Or avoid water in Crank if I am not tearing down?

 

[1Alpha1]

When the crud, gunk, stuff, or whatever, is really, really bad, I'll use pre-mix gas. I use it outside, in a large parts cleaning pan. I wear heavy rubber gloves and use goggles, so I don't splash any in my eyes.

It cuts thru most anything that a dirty saw can conjure up. Again, a good quality parts cleaning brush is necessary. And, it air dries in a few minutes and doesn't leave a film behind.

And yes, I'm fully aware of using gasoline as a cleaner. I've been using it for years and years, take the necessary precautions, and have it nailed down to a fine science.

And no, I don't smoke.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

I used compressed air and a brush. seems to work well.

 

[old-cat]

Every time someone brings me their saw for servicing or repair, I take it apart except removal of the cylinder. Plug all open holes, duct tape works good for the ex port. Kerosene with air sprayer kills the crud!!!!! Parts look almost new almost always. Sometimes the plastic needs a cloths detergent bath.

 

[machinisttx]

I would not want water in my bearings.

 

[WidowMaker1]

diesel and fuel mix, stiff bristle paint brush & old tooth brush, compressed air

 

[kz1000]

If your trying to bring back some of the luster and get ride of some of the sun fade, try cleaning the plastic with Goop Hand Cleaner.

 

[cheeves]

Laundry soap works good too. I'll put them in the sink with that if they're split and going to be rebuilt.

That's what I use primarily after compressed air, Amway Industro cleaner and elbow grease!

 

[mdavlee]

If you get water in the crankcase flush with mix and run as soon as possible. The heat will get rid of any water left behind.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Forgot to mention pipe cleaners. I grabbed 3 different sizes from the dollar store and they work great for cleaning any of the little openings, like starter covers.

 

[naturelover]

Electric pressure washer works really well...

ETA, obviously may want to change tactics when the jug comes off...

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

The stihl cleaner is the sh!! in my book. Don't take much to get the job done either. I use it after compressed air then a little dawn to take the oily film away that the stihl cleaner leaves.

 

[Homelite410]

Gray mills solvent tank with 5 gal of mineral spirits and 3 pints atf. This has never let me down and with a once in a while heated shop...... it don't freeze oh ya.. compressed air to dry with!