Saw will only cut about 3"-4" into a tree (sideways)

[ropensaddle]

Sounds like bar but I had a rim once so wore out it did this same symptom
it made the chain twist and cut crooked changed everthing to no help.
I figured it out the rim was so worn you could wiggle it a good bit on the
sprocket.

 

[stevethekiwi]

Sounds like bar but I had a rim once so wore out it did this same symptom
it made the chain twist and cut crooked changed everthing to no help.
I figured it out the rim was so worn you could wiggle it a good bit on the
sprocket.

did it do this all the time, or just on the side?

 

[husky362]

flip the bar over and try again sounds like bar and chain

 

[scootr]

Yep, he said it would only cut 3-4" deep. Sounds like motor is runnin' OK. I have had a prob with saw dying when in the horizontal, fuel line too stiff to get in the corners.

 

[ropensaddle]

did it do this all the time, or just on the side?

Just on the side it seems the rim would stay centered cutting straght
down but to the side it twisted and made the chain ride untrue.
I would feel the bar is usually the prob but in this case I found another.

 

[parrisw]

I'd like to hear the full story. He said nothing on how the saw sounded, maybe its just bogging out, when put on its side. Maybe it needs crank seals? Who knows, until we get more info.

 

[Mike PA]

I had a worn bar that would act like that, except I would also have a little trouble on vertical cuts. I would move the saw a hair and it would start to rip again. Biggest problems were when I was felling trees with heavy ridges in the bark. Saw cut like it was dull - could actually see the chain tilt on the bar. New bar fixed that.

Check the chain and how it seats on the bar. Too much side to side play of the cahin in the rail and that is the reason for the poor cutting. With both bars doing it, look at the chains to see if something is in contact with the chain and dulling them. Also, look to be certain that the chain isn't becoming loose.

 

[1turf]

Sorry for taking so long to get back to this thread. Thanks for all help.

Let me state that the saw itself runs perfect. no bogging down or anything. It is a beast!

The chain is the original chain that came with the saw and is about 1/2 way worn is all. we have been using an electric chainsaw grinder for all sharpening with only one person doing all touchups. the bar does have a little wear on it with a slight ridge built up is all. the chain still sticks out past the side of the bar a good ways. the inside track of the bar may have some wear on it by yall standards and can be part of the problem I guess. The second, longer blade and bar has no where near the use on it of the other since we only used it for flush cutting stumps and for our largest trees from hurricane katrina. this saw has only been used by two operators (simi skilled). We first experienced the problems on the longest bar (44") when we noticed it would not cut the stumps very well (we just started using the shorter bar and blade.

you guys bring up a lot of good points for me to check on and it is even more interesting just reading the debates. Thanks again and when I get it figured out I will repost the answer.

 

[PA Plumber]

Pics?

Would like to see that bar, w/o the chain on it, from a couple of angles.

Would also like to see that chain from the top and from one of the sides.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Your chainsaw may have the power, but does it have the correct cutting speed?

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Sounds like bar but I had a rim once so wore out it did this same symptom
it made the chain twist and cut crooked changed everthing to no help.
I figured it out the rim was so worn you could wiggle it a good bit on the
sprocket.

My 056 used to do the same thing with the 36" bar, I checked the bar openings, rim sprocket & chain; the bar opening seemed decent, however the rim sprocket was very worn probably one of the worst I've seen. I changed the rim sprocket & it didn't help much so I tried the chain even though the chain looked like it may have had one or two sharpenings on it. After comparing the new chain to the old chain, I noticed the drive teeth were amazingly sharp on the points of the old chain: I placed the old chain on the bar (with the bar off the saw) and rocked it from side to side and it had a good deal of slop; I did the same with the new chain & had almost no movement. I got out the dial caliper & checked the difference on the tooth where it was closest to the bar opening & it was good (.050 & yes it has an 050 bar), however the tip was not. I changed the chain even though it seemed to be almost new, and had no more problems. I can only assume the chain drive tips were wearing so rapidly from the bad rim sprocket.