Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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That's nice. Wish I had some under my floor, but hopefully having lots in the walls will make up for it. I did put a vapor barrier under it, the concrete guys weren't happy about that as they had to haul the mud into the back with a concrete buggy, which meant plywood was set down on top so it didn't get damaged. I moved the plywood so they didn't have to and told him to stop whining lol.
That's a big project! My BIL rebuilt his whole farm house and added another floor on the single level portion. When he was just about finished with the exterior a guy stopped by and was complimenting him on his work, then he asked what he did to the foundation to improve it, he said nothing. That guy was the building inspector and he never pulled a single permit 🤣. He made him pull a permit for the foundation and he dug it all with a mini ex and then built block walls under it. I think he got off pretty easy. He paid his kids .25 a 5 gallon bucket to haul it all out, it took a few yrs. Then he poured concrete on it, it looks nice, but it was a ton of work, I imagine yours was similar.
Both floors have a vapor barrier. When the building inspector came to give the all good to pour he commented that I was way overdoing the rebar and concrete. Then when he came and saw the 2nd floor joists were 2x12 and 12 inch on center he okayed the framing without ever coming back . All the exterior walls on the second floor are 2x8 the rafters are 2x10 as I was planning on making living space when I added onto the house . I ended up not going forward with that since I moved to my other home
 
That's what I was thinking. Little goes a long way when it comes to insulating floors. If I would have had a bit more time I would have done mine, added a drain to the main bay, and put in a drain for a sink/toilet. But, I can at least cut the drains in if they are absolutely needed, the insulation, well not so much. At least I have commercial fiber(long strand) in the concrete, that's gotta be food for like .25 r lol.
Do you have any problems with mice in/under there.
Nope.
 
If you are going to use that 046 for anything more than just bucking (like felling), a lightweight bar is worth the extra cost.

Also, are you doing any mods or porting to it? 046/460 cylinder #s and squish are often all over the place!

Also, some of the 046s came with .070 (instead of .068) jets. Will run stronger in some saws.

I almost always do a muffler mod and take .020 off the key to advance the timing.
Mostly bucking and noodling, but an occasional milling of a small log. Nothing huge. Maybe 20" cut max. I'm mainly after boards and not flitches so I'd be milling down to a cant size cut.

The rest of what you said is purely Greek to me. I've mentioned on several occasions of my noviceness to saw repair. So PLEASE keep a eye out for a thread about an 046 repair. I'd love to have your input to further my education.
 
I have taken stacked up egg cartons out of the walls at my inlaws old farm.
On the topic of stuff in walls, my dad and I recently remodeled my grandma’s house. We put an empty clean soda can, a sticky-note with a political note on it, a empty pack of of granny’s cigarettes with the current price of cigarettes written on it, and a 2023 quarter in the walls for whoever tears it down in a few decades or centuries to find.
 
Do you add an extra port if they have the dual port muffler
No need for extra venting (IMO) if you have dp muffler, but you will notice (over time) that 044/440s and 046/460 had different size holes in them (the newer they are, the smaller the hole).

The dp muffler was part of the 046 "Magnum" package, but the EPA killed the idea fast. Stihl noticed that the Magnum name "sold saws" so they started using it on lots of saws that had no "difference".

I believe the Magnum 046s (and heated handle) had .070 carb jets, but I don't think they changed the rated HP. The Magnum 066s were rated at 1/2 Hp more! A good increase just due to a muffler mod!

Caution: Do not modify a muffler on a "restricted" carb saw unless you remove the limiters and re-tune the carb.

There are tons of videos and threads on modifying and tuning saws. Just do a search. A lot of builders did "build threads" and what they do applies to all similar saws.
 
The rest of what you said is purely Greek to me. I've mentioned on several occasions of my noviceness to saw repair. So PLEASE keep a eye out for a thread about an 046 repair. I'd love to have your input to further my education.
046s usually do not have limiters on the carb but check to make sure. If you modify the muffler, you will likely want the Hi to be 1+1/8 to 1+1/4 turn out. Err on the rich side and know how to tune a carb. If it turns that far out, you do not have limiters!

For 046/460s I often just drill 2 - 1/4" holes in the top right of the muffler cover (mark where the exhaust will not directly hit the saw). Drill as close to the seam as possible. Remove the cover before you drill and clean all filing before putting it back on.

That and adjusting the carb (richer) will give you noticeably more power. (And your saw will run cooler and last longer). Just make sure you run good oil and mix as you will put more stress on your bearings (I like Amsoil Saber at 40:1).

If you want to go further and do a timing advance, you have to pull the flywheel and file the top part of the key (the right side). .020 will usually give you about 5-6* additional advance. (search videos on how to do it). This makes more difference on some saws than others.

Next step (W/O porting) is to check your squish. Pull the plug, insert some soft - thin solder on the side (in the squish band) and pull the saw over several times, then measure the solder. .020 squish is considered ideal. If your squish is too thick, you can improve it by .015 to .020 by pulling the base gasket. You will then have to "glue" the cylinder down after thoroughly cleaning both surfaces.

I did these things to my 10mm 044 and it runs stronger than many fully ported 044/440s. Your results will depend on your cylinder's porting from the factory.

I have built many 044/440s and 046/460s using these methods to make saws that run notably stronger than stock. The next phase is learning porting, and I suggest you buy one or more Asian cylinders to learn on if you do that. You can do some mods to intake and exhaust ports with just files. (I have even used round chain files in the corners).
 
LEASE keep a eye out for a thread about an 046 repair. I'd love to have your input to further my education.
046/460 saws are one of the most frequently modified. Do a search, there are plenty of build threads out there.

They were the mainstay of tree guys for quite a while.
 
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