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4seasons

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I've been wearing the search feature out for 2 days and just can't find what I'm looking for. I know it has to be here but there is so much info that I just can't seem to sort it out enough to find what I am looking for.

I am going to do a little milling with the McCulloch Lumber Maker. I tried some freehand with some pretty sorry results. I am using a Sachs-Dolmar 116si with 20in bar 3/8 chisel chain and 7 tooth drive sprocket. Milling freehand was slow and made very rough cuts and was easy to bog the saw down. I have both Dremel sharpening kit and Oregon file guide and some extra chain that I don't mind messing up. I thought about just changing some angles to try out but before I go in blind I wanted to have a starting point. I found one site that said square file for milling but I have never square filed before. Another site said file 0 degree top angle with a 55 degree hook angle. I can't find a clear definition of hook angle with a picture to even know what this refers to. I have only filed with the file angled 23 to 30 degrees from the bar and with 0 to 10 degrees horizontal tilt depending on what the chain calls for.

So I have 3 questions
1. Could someone please explain hook angle preferably with pictures?
2. What is the best angles to use to mill fast, straight, rough cuts?
3. Does anyone make a 6 tooth drive sprocket for my saw? I know it would loose chain speed but I am more concerned with bogging down with the bar buried in the cut. Is this even something I need to worry about or will changing the chain angles solve this problem?

I case it matters I am milling yellow pine in 12 foot logs that square out between 12 x 12 and 18 x 18 into 2 x 8's, 1 x 8's and 2 x 4's. I have also thought about just making 2 x 8's a little big then running them through my table saw to get 1 x 8's and 2 x 4's.
 
I've been wearing the search feature out for 2 days and just can't find what I'm looking for. I know it has to be here but there is so much info that I just can't seem to sort it out enough to find what I am looking for.

I am going to do a little milling with the McCulloch Lumber Maker. I tried some freehand with some pretty sorry results. I am using a Sachs-Dolmar 116si with 20in bar 3/8 chisel chain and 7 tooth drive sprocket. Milling freehand was slow and made very rough cuts and was easy to bog the saw down. I have both Dremel sharpening kit and Oregon file guide and some extra chain that I don't mind messing up. I thought about just changing some angles to try out but before I go in blind I wanted to have a starting point. I found one site that said square file for milling but I have never square filed before. Another site said file 0 degree top angle with a 55 degree hook angle. I can't find a clear definition of hook angle with a picture to even know what this refers to. I have only filed with the file angled 23 to 30 degrees from the bar and with 0 to 10 degrees horizontal tilt depending on what the chain calls for.

So I have 3 questions
1. Could someone please explain hook angle preferably with pictures?
2. What is the best angles to use to mill fast, straight, rough cuts?
3. Does anyone make a 6 tooth drive sprocket for my saw? I know it would loose chain speed but I am more concerned with bogging down with the bar buried in the cut. Is this even something I need to worry about or will changing the chain angles solve this problem?

I case it matters I am milling yellow pine in 12 foot logs that square out between 12 x 12 and 18 x 18 into 2 x 8's, 1 x 8's and 2 x 4's. I have also thought about just making 2 x 8's a little big then running them through my table saw to get 1 x 8's and 2 x 4's.
First of all , welcome. You will find here that everyone does their thing a little different-and bear in mind that it works for them with their particular equiptment , so my advice is to study the basics of what the members have posted here in the forums and then modify those principles to work with your saw and mill.
here's a link to some discussion on rip chain angles;http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84935&highlight=chain+angles+milling

good luck and be well.:)
 
Haddon Lumbermaker?

As for milling with the Alaskan, my preference is to either semi-chisel (Stihl RM) or Bailey's milling chain. Both cut more freely and smoother than chisel chain when ripping.

I used a Haddon Lumbermaker a few times with a Husqvarna 353 and it worked OK, but nowhere nearly as accurately as the Granberg Mini Mill(Stihl 066). Either way, both were used with chisel chain and worked OK for squaring cants. The smaller saws are best suited for smaller wood, so no surprise that you easily bogged in a cut.
 

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