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Then either you're doing something wrong with the PE summit (Wood, setup, chimney) or something is wrong with the stove. Did you season the wood for the PE? If you didn't there is your problem right there.


Likely he's doing something..............Likely more than one! LOL!

His mountain of wood is never covered so likely it's not seasoned enough for a modern high efficiency wood stove. He found that out but of course it's not the wood, it's the high efficiency stove.
 
Seriously guys... c'mon, spill it... where do I get one of those crystal balls that allows me to see what's happening on the other side of the country?? I thought we were all friends here... and here to share information... c'mon, spill it, where do I get one??
*

No crystal ball needed to see what you've done wrong Spider.

You've posted it up and have had it pointed out to you repeatedly.
 
Yup, that's another thing I do wrong. I cover my seasoning wood and then it goes in a woodshed the next year. That might be why my elitist stove doesn't perform to Spider expectations.
 
Seriously guys... c'mon, spill it... where do I get one of those crystal balls that allows me to see what's happening on the other side of the country??
What, you don't have one?
tumblr_msvr67hlut1qfqjxao2_r2_250.gif

Like the secondary burn stoves, it probably wouldn't work for you anyway!
 
I was thinking about the coaling issue again, and I have a feeling it may have a lot to do with how you stack the wood in the firebox. I asked about this once before and found that I stack mine differently than most. I put the lowest row end-on to the door, and then next row perpendicular on top. I make sure to leave a gap between all splits on a row. This way air can flow down the door glass, in underneath the stack and does not get blocked off going up through the stack. I noticed early on that it was very hard to start and to get a hot fire if the bottom row of splits were stacked perpendicular to the door, or if both rows were oriented the same way. Then logs would tend to fall together and seal off the flow paths.

Anyway, it might be worth a try.
 
Hmm..I have no set technique for placing wood in the smogger, it is completely random, criss cross, whatever. I also never pack it as full as possible.

Perhaps that is why I don't get terrible coaling and what I do get is easy to deal with, but I don't know either, not running this thing at 20 below either.
 
Some units make coals, some don't - not matter how you change up procedures.

(Softwood vs. hardwood, likely a difference yes).

My old boiler would make coals like no tomorrow - if it was actually cold out I had two choices, shovel out hot coals & reload, or let the oil burner take over for a while.
 
Some units make coals, some don't - not matter how you change up procedures.

(Softwood vs. hardwood, likely a difference yes).

My old boiler would make coals like no tomorrow - if it was actually cold out I had two choices, shovel out hot coals & reload, or let the oil burner take over for a while.

Splits of softwoods like pine and fir that don't make much coal placed on top of a large bed of coals will help to burn down that bed of coals.
 
I tried that too. All that seemed to happen is the softwood burned to ash, and the ash smothered the coals.

I could get the coals to burn down, with time & effort - stir them up & re-pile in front of the loading door every hour. But that took a few hours, by the end of which the house had gotten considerably colder. Part of the problem is that it was a boiler, and the return from the system entered under the firebox thereby liquid cooling the bottom of it. Right under the coals I was trying to get to burn.

Man I'm some glad that thing went down the road....
 
I tried that too. All that seemed to happen is the softwood burned to ash, and the ash smothered the coals.
Pretty much my experience... just more ash to smother the coals.

I also tried the "criss-cross" loading thing... what a friggin' joke.
Talk 'bout screwin' 'round, especially trying to re-load... and it required two different lengths (or just cut everything shorter).
B'sides, it didn't change a thing...
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Part of the problem is that it was a boiler, and the return from the system entered under the firebox thereby liquid cooling the bottom of it. Right under the coals I was trying to get to burn.
That sounds like a design problem. WS had a similar issue when he made his "Stovace", using a big blower to cool the stove off, especially after removing the firebrick.

Some people just ruin good topics.
Oh, that is not an accident.
 
Some people just ruin good topics.
Agreed! As long as your house is warm and it works for your situation then it's all good. Why get bent out of shape and try to tell someone how to do something because just because you happen to think it's better? I don't care if you use a 55 gallon drum stove, an open fireplace, owb, wood furnace, new epa stove, or an insert! I like to learn about them all.
 
With so many people having no problem with the same stove that Spider can't get to run maybe there is a quality control issue.


Naaaaa.


The smart money is on belligerent user error.
 

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