In the garage or out in the field same process. I run the file until i see or feel the leading edge just start to curl and then I know it is time for the next. It is rare that one side of the chain is longer, but when I notice it is loped side I do the same just a couple extra strokes to let the chips fly Thanks
Sharpening
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In the garage or out in the field same process. I run the file until i see or feel the leading edge just start to curl and then I know it is time for the next. It is rare that one side of the chain is longer, but when I notice it is loped side I do the same just a couple extra strokes to let the chips fly Thanks
Ted - there is another way - been doing it for years. I'm sure I'm not alone.
Round file with handle, no guide. Saw on tailgate, stump, log, bench.
Right hand cutters.
Round file with handle, no guide. Saw on tailgate, stump, log, bench.
Right hand cutters.
- Saw facing away from me.
- Left hand holds the file by the handle. Index finger extends up the file to apply some side pressure to the file.
- Right hand on the right side of the bar, index finger up and supporting the outside of the tooth being filed.
- File at the correct the angle, control file depth by adjusting placement of the finger.
- 3-5 strokes per tooth
- Saw facing left to right in front of me. Left hand has file. Thumb applies side pressure
- Right hand reaches around the bar, index finger up and supporting the outside of the tooth, setting depth.
- Same process.
MR Big I do not believe there is any other way, but you are doing it so what can I say. Why do you hold the tooth that you are sharpening? Two hands on the file makes sense. If your chain is a little sloppy that is the time to firm it up. I sharpen usually once and hour to once every hour and half. One hand would get so tired trying to do all the work. I most often pick out a stump that is just the right location and height. Then I set my vice oil fuel grease gun etc. 100 plus cutters of 404 with one hand six times a day seems pretty rough but that is why you are Big Eddy. Thanks
Ted - without a vise to hold the bar, the second hand is primarily holding the bar in place to stop the saw from moving around. Sliding that finger up beside the tooth adds a bit more support to the side of the tooth and provides a depth "stop" for the file to ensure the optimum 20% file above tooth.
Just the way I do it - not saying it's the best way.
Now that I've tried filing upside down in the vise - I'll be doing a lot more of that in the future.
I also use one hand on the file & one one the tooth, when it gets to the left cutters I turn the bar to the left and keep using my right hand only now I push backwards.
panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
I was recently gifted a used grinder when my buddy replaced his. I'm not great with it yet but have had a couple oopsies chains that I worked over. I can get them pretty close but if I take my 2-1 over with a few finish strokes they cut like a bandit. Really like how quick the grinder cleans up the rocked chains much faster than hand filing. I'm running full chisel stihl chains on all my saws currently and they cut fast but dull easy. 2-1 tightens them up very quickly in the field.
Now I understand the folks who have been sharpening, but without a vice. Any vice makes the most sense to me. Take a 4 to 6'' C clamp and weld a lag bolt on the end opposite the screw handle and you have a vice. Take a small log and make about a 8 to 10'' cut and stick your bar into it along with a small wedge of wood to make your bar tight and you have a vice. Once your bar is secure you can accelerate much faster at getting your chain fine tuned. Thanks
When cutting green Pine or Oak chisel chain makes some sense, but with dryer wood a semi will outlast and cut faster. Thanks
I use nothing but full chisel chain and cut all dead dry wood.
Same here. I probably have to change chains more often than with semi though. Doesn't bother me, just gives me more time bent over the bench sharping chains.
panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
Most of what I cut is a hardwood. This year has been mainly red oak, sugar maple, ash, and elm. Most is pretty green. I have been going to buy a few semi chains but haven't yet. It seems once you get a good edge on a full as long as you don't dirt it that you can cut a lot of timber. Every third tank or so I'll make a few turns with 2-1 and it tightens right back up.
Iaff113
ArboristSite Operative
When you all say 2-1 are you talking about the stihl sharpener
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panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
Yes, sir. I think some other's make it and it runs a little cheaper because it is not creamsicle colored. It's really idiot proof.
Anyone else having a terrible time keeping a chain sharp when it's cold out? Minus 15-20 C or about 0F this week. Cutting logs off a pile. Clean wood. Can't seem to keep the chain sharp. Not even a tank before feels dull again. Tried semi-chisel (brand new). Same thing. 20-30 mins max before it seemed to be dulling. Touch it up and another 30 mins. Normally get a couple tanks a sharpening minimum.
Probably doesn't make a difference but saw is a 562xp and it's running great. Auto tune rocks.
Probably doesn't make a difference but saw is a 562xp and it's running great. Auto tune rocks.
Frozen wood is harder than unfrozen, green wood. If you know that you will be cutting frozen wood, consider a shallower top plate angle (say, 25° instead of 30°). Or, consider having different chains to swap out for different situations.
Philbert
Philbert
I have not seen much difference whether wood is frozen or not since my wood is seasoned and dry. In my experience the semi rocks everything else does not. Thanks
Oregon 73LPX filed at 25 degrees 7/32 file, rakers at 0.025" per usual (Oregon spec)
Chain is at 70%.
Semi chisel was brand new. Oregon 73DPX
That's all I got! You can experiment with other angles, less hook, etc., and see how that woks. The caveat is that edges that hold up longer will likely cut slower too.
Sharpening more frequently might just be a fact of cold weather cutting . . .
Philbert
Sharpening more frequently might just be a fact of cold weather cutting . . .
Philbert
What kind of grinder? Those cheap ones that dont allow you to set all the angles are worthless on full chisel chain. With full chisel, you need a 10* upward angle and those harbor freight, $30 grinders dont have that adjustment. With semi chisel, those cheap grinders work pretty well because you dont use the 10* angle when sharpening them. I had a fix angle grinder once and gave it away when I bought one of the oregon clones at Northertool. The Norther grinder would allow for all the angle adjustments, all tho the little dgree indicators where off a little bit. I used a new chain to set all the angles and marked the scale and it worked great after that. I gave the clone away to a friend after buying the sthil 3in1 file system. I wanted it close in case I rocked a chain, but prefer hand fileing now.
I rarely use 10 degree up angle on my full chisel chain. Only when I'm bored and want to take the extra step moving the vice.
Cuts just fine.
sent from a field
Cuts just fine.
sent from a field
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