Spikes/gaffs

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From reading a few threads here I get the feeling most of you hate to use gaffs. Why?I am no arborist, so go easy on me. BTW in my area I have never seen a tree service not use them.
 
Haven't the energy. They definitely have their place. I don't want to discount that. It is just that there are much faster ways to access a tree.
 
I worked (Note past tense) for one company that spiked everything and it was not a pretty sight! Yet there are people out that there that will pay big bucks for someone to come in and damage their trees. On the other hand it was a pleasure to watch a true climber at work.
 
Ben, go find some one that has a pair of gaffs and put them on and stand on them for a while!!! if you aren't used to them they KILL your feet:eek: also like Tx said, there are faster ways up. i don't like to use them on removals unless i have to because some times they can get in your way.
 
Ryan- what kind of pads are you using? What kind of boots? What kind of gaffs? My biggest complaint about them, when I started to use them was the chinsy upper strap... that of course was resolved by getting the $110 velcro pad w/ steel insert :) I find that also a boot with a REALLY good sole helps eliminate the pains you get in the arches of your feet.

As far as why you don't want to use gaffs goes...
1) it ruptures the cambium... big no-no :(
2) can transfer diseases via gaffs
3) creates a vector for insects and diseases to infect the trees
4 gaffs in general) can be more dangerous to the climber if not careful.

That is of course on pruning jobs... removals are gonna be dead soon anyways so it doesn't matter
 
I'm a new arborist/climber, so it is still faster for me to use gaffs, though I don't gaff prunning jobs. This makes my jobs slower and I don't make as much $ on prunning jobs. I'm doing my best to get faster.

Reasons for not gaffing.
1. Every book I've read and training I've attended says this is a no go. If the guy with brains say it's bad for the trees, then how can my country a$$ say different.

2. I lost a bid on a prunning job by $100. When I went by to look at the job, there were gaff marks everywhere that later turned in to ugle black/dark spots all over the tree.

I do climb with gaffs on removals and find it effective. Just another opinion.

rwilk
 
Treeman, i used to have that problem when learning but not any more. i have the buckingham non replacable gaffs with the Triple Thick T pads, Stihl Pro Mark climbing boots that are VERY comfortable:angel:
 
still can't understand why any one would do a removal with out gaffs. how do they get in the way? how
would you chunk down a stick? i've never seen a climber with out gaffs as fast as a climber with them.

unless i see it in person, i stiil feel i'd be tieing in at the top while your still untangling your throw line.


(oops, wrong button!jps)
 
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I understand if you haven't seen it. I thought the same about many of these FC devices and other "new" climbing techniques.

I thought ,"By the time you guys get set up, I am done with the removal already."

In reality it was, "I have never used or seen this stuff be used and by the time I get it set up, I could be done."

I don't let my throw line get tangled. That means that by the time you have yer spikes on, I have a rope set.

I doubt that a good spiker, flipped in (right?), could be faster than a proficent footlocker.

In yer defense, I can see a spiker being much faster than a body thruster.

Finally, not all trees are excurrent in form with a "stick". How are you going to spike a decurrent live oak?

That reminds me, I have to get offline and go kill a pecan. Uhhh, I mean "remove to redistribute the growth potential on the site"
 
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Gaffs on a removal are mandatory in my book. I have also been trying to use a rope as well for safty. I typically don't set the rope in advance however just take it up and install it when I get to a good spot, unless I can see an easy/good branch that I can quickly hit from the ground with my throwline.
I got stung by a wasp about 4feet up a tree about 3 months ago, that really drove home the need for a quick escape route. I was right next to a hive as big as a baseball, but only got hit one time luckily. I got down fast, but burning down on a hitch or 8 would be much easier than trying to spike down wounded.
Greg
 
I'm going to throw out a billiard analogy here.
I like to go out and play a game or two of 8 ball at the local taverns. I see some younger players that can put backspin on the que ball and make it stop dead in it's track. It's a very effective shot. The shooter knows exactly where the que will end up. He can change up the force he hits the que with to finesse the object ball in.
These young shooters will strut around very proudly after slamming a ball home.
But in the long run, the best players, the ones who win consistently, are the ones who can put stop on the que ball AND top spin, left english, right english, lower right, upper left, and all the other permutations of applied english.

So it's great to be able to spike up a tree really well, but it's the guys who spike well AND are able to use all the other methods who are the best.

As far as spikes being mandatory, that's silly. You going to put on spikes to remove a smallish honey locust with scafold branches you can climb like a ladder?
 
but no one answered me yet about how spikes get in the way? or how do you chunk down a stick with out spikes? by chunking down a stick i mean being belted to a 30 foot stick that the pieces need to be cut and pushed off with control. or if your tied in to the top of a sycamore and need to get out on leads that go up right but don't have a branch for 20 or 30 feet do you need to thrown another line?

i'm not trying to argue. it's just with out seeing it. i can't believe it. granted there are people who could get any where in a tree with out spikes. i don't question that, i'm talking from a time stand point only.
 
After changing to the steel insert pads and the "Cadillac" pads and wearing my Wesco's or La Sportiva Makalu mountaineering boots, me and my spikes have a more loving relationship.
 
also please explain "How are you going to spike a decurrent live oak?"

decurrent:Having the leaf base extending down the stem below the insertion: decurrent leaves. \De*cur"rent\, a. [L. decurrens, -entis, p. pr. of decurrere to run down; de- + currere to run: cf. F. d['e]current.] (Bot.) Extending downward; -- said of a leaf whose base extends downward and forms a wing along the stem. -- De*cur\"rent*ly, adv.
 
Originally posted by kf_tree
or if your tied in to the top of a sycamore and need to get out on leads that go up right but don't have a branch for 20 or 30 feet do you need to thrown another

I suppose you would prune those leads with spikes as well since that is the only way you know how to get out there right??

Answer to the other question --- very speading w/no stick
 
treetx,
why the smart ass answer? is it not a legit question?

i never came across a live oak in brooklyn.
 

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