Spiltter rebuild issues

[TJ-Bill]

Can you tell if the Valve has a Closed Center? it kinda fits the problem your having.

I think it has an open center, because it runs fine while the valve is in the Nuetral poistion. Works ok going forward just stalling when I go back.. The only thing I've changed on the system is the motor. same pump same valve.. the guy I bought it from said it had a 12HP B&S. I debating about hooking the cyl up to my neighbours Backhoe He used quick Diso's and runs his spitter off it. It would at least take something out of the equation

 

[jags]

Can you tell if the Valve has a Closed Center? it kinda fits the problem your having.

A closed center valve would immediately bang off of the relief valve or kill the engine if the piston was not in motion. He would probably never be able to start the engine with the hydraulic lock that it would create.

Just a suspicion, but I think you may have something binding during the return, causing the psi to spike above what the motor can pull. Using a proper pump, and watching the gauge could verify this. (there is a method to my madness).

 

[TJ-Bill]

A closed center valve would immediately bang off of the relief valve or kill the engine if the piston was not in motion. He would probably never be able to start the engine with the hydraulic lock that it would create.

Just a suspicion, but I think you may have something binding during the return, causing the psi to spike above what the motor can pull. Using a proper pump, and watching the gauge could verify this. (there is a method to my madness).

I don't know what can be binding,, If I reverse the lines on the valve I get the oppisite, I even took the sliders off the ram to make sure that wasn't the problem.

 

[jags]

I don't know what can be binding,, If I reverse the lines on the valve I get the oppisite, I even took the sliders off the ram to make sure that wasn't the problem.

Just so I have this straight, when you reverse the lines - then you stall on the outwards push?

 

[Steve K]

If you reversed the lines and got the same affect on the cylinder I would rule out a cylinder issue. Most likely a valve problem but with that pump you are not ever going to have a great splitter.

You can get a Prince valve for $89 and a 2 stage 16 gpm pump for $135. Then you will have a good working splitter for just a little more than $200.

 

[jags]

You can get a Prince valve for $89 and a 2 stage 16 gpm pump for $135. Then you will have a good working splitter for just a little more than $200.

I second that - motion carried.

(Man - I can spend other peoples money like water going down a drain.)

 

[triptester]

Another possibility is a bad hose that has internal damage. A piece of inside hose liner could cause blockage when fluid is flowing in one direction.

 

[TJ-Bill]

I second that - motion carried.

(Man - I can spend other peoples money like water going down a drain.)

Ya you guys and your US pricing.. I got 2 prices in town.. for the pump $185 plus shipping an tax and $215 on the shelf plus tax. single Valve with a Dentent kit is another $165 plus tax of course. in case your wondering tax is another %13 which brings us to about $430.. OH wait.. plus the $110 mount I'll need. and the fittings.

whatever I'll do it. Splitter is worth much to me sitting there not working!

 

[jags]

in case your wondering tax is another %13

You guys and your universal health care.....

 

[triptester]

Princess Auto in Canada carries log splitter pumps and valves. Prices are better than those you listed.

 

[TJ-Bill]

Princess Auto in Canada carries log splitter pumps and valves. Prices are better than those you listed.

http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/pumps/gear/1221555-8-hp-2-stage-hydraulic-pump

http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/valves/monoblock/8107203-hydraulic-kick-off-valve

there's a PA about 2 hrs away.. one of my favorite stores

 

[jags]

Another possibility is a bad hose that has internal damage. A piece of inside hose liner could cause blockage when fluid is flowing in one direction.

It does sound like a restriction in the hose or valve would be the culprit.

 

[TJ-Bill]

It does sound like a restriction in the hose or valve would be the culprit.

I'm swapping hoses tonight and taking the valve body out.. just for sh**s

 

[jags]

I'm swapping hoses tonight and taking the valve body out.. just for sh**s

Easy test of the hoses:
Which ever way it currently stalls (lets say outgoing for now), Take both hoses off of the cylinder AND valve and swap. If it still stalls in the outgoing it is the valve. If it CHANGES and now stalls on the return, its the hoses.

 

[TJ-Bill]

Easy test of the hoses:
Which ever way it currently stalls (lets say outgoing for now), Take both hoses off of the cylinder AND valve and swap. If it still stalls in the outgoing it is the valve. If it CHANGES and now stalls on the return, its the hoses.

And how many Beer should this take?

I'll try it tonight.

I called another Hydraulic shop in town I didn't know about.. Pump, valve and mount for $440 taxes in..

 

[jags]

And how many Beer should this take?

No more than 15 minutes, but that does equate to 6 beers.

 

[TJ-Bill]

Time to Head home.. Thanks for the help.. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[triptester]

Valve,
http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/valves/monoblock/8123176-hydraulic-kick-off-valve
Pump mount,
http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/pump-mount-brackets/4-bolt/8110751-gas-engine-bracket
Pump,
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Hydraulic-T...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item255c8add6b

 

[Mike Van]

You have a 1500 rpm pump that you are trying to run at 3200-3600 rpm. Wrong useage. You have a 12 gpm single stage pump that your power plant will never create over 1700 psi from. It simply doesn't have the HP to do it with that pump.

QUOTE]

:agree2: At that rpm, that pump could be trying to push 20+ gpm through it, it's not going to work well or long. 2 stage pump, only way to go here, you'll split more wood faster.

 

[kevin j]

I think you said the system ran fine before, you only changed the engine?

with that big of a pump, does the cylinder seem unusually fast?
12 gpm at 1500 rpm would be 24 gpm at 3000 rpm. That is only about 800 psi to stall 11 or 12 hp engine.

If you are trying to push way more flow through the circuit that it can handle, the retract motion WILL actually be slower and stall out the motor just from the high pressure required on the rod side to retract the rod. The amount of flow out of the closed end creates high pressure drop, which is applied to the larger area on that side of piston. The rod side has less area, so needs higher pressure to move the piston. If that pressure exceed 800-900? psi, engine stalls.

I would not change the valve, I would make sure the engine is tuned, expecially if it worked before. Then either set the relief valve at 800 psi and live with the low splitting force, or order the pump. Me-self, I'd get a two stage pump and get the system able to handle 2500 psi at stall to get more force.

k.