Starting a processor build.. pictures..FINALLY FINISHED!!

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I'm going to build a chute on the end that goes into my pickup bed.. each time one splits it will push one into the truck..
My splitter has the hitch on the motor end. I back my 6x10 dump trailer up to the splitter wedge to split. The dump bed will just go under the Hbeam. While splitting, the wood is pushed into the bed of the trailer. I get a pile in the bed and stop to stack it up and then split another pile. Works really well if I have someone to stack as I split. Trailer bed acts as a table for anything that needs resplit. I seldom have to pick anything off the ground. I have thought many times about adding a hitch to the wedge end and making a slide for loading the truck as It splits. The trailer deal only works well if the splitter is hooked to a different vehicle or tractor. I found the dump trailer works very well if someone is cutting timber. I can just back up to their loader and they will throw on anything they dont want to hual. I just got back from getting a load from a tree that had to come down. I cut it into 10ft lenghts and the guy used his trackhoe to load and trailer. Probably took me 30 min to cut and hual and dump at my place. Got close to a cord. Of course I still have to cut it into rounds and split, but I can do that when I aint playing on the puter
 
got my 4 way wedge put on the other day.. i'm going to try and add another set of wings to make it a 6 way maybe sometime this week.. here's a little video of it splitting some locust.
 
Seems to be working pretty well, but you might have problems with wood compression if you decide to add another set of wing. It looks to me if you add more wings, they will have to be added above the current wings. Your current wings are sharpend on the top side only. This will force the splits up, which you can see in the vids. An additional wing above will not allow the wood to rise/spread and compress the splits. I made the same mistake. I ended up cutting the bottom wings off and flipping them over and the top wing is only sharpen on the top side, same way your current wings are, and angled up at the back to allow the wood room to pass between the wings. I still see compression on really big rounds and think I should have angled the top wedge into a Vee shape, instead of having both wings welded at 90degrees to the main wedge. I have a 5in cyl and can force the wood thru the compression, but if I ever break the wings off, I will probably change the top wing to a vee.
 

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I have pondered the idea of a V on the top but for some reason.. probably my OCD I like square/rectangle shaped wood.. I know it sounds crazy.. LOL.. I like the idea of angling the wings I didnt think of that.. my cylinder is 5 inches also.. thanks!!
 
Seems to be working pretty well, but you might have problems with wood compression if you decide to add another set of wing. It looks to me if you add more wings, they will have to be added above the current wings. Your current wings are sharpend on the top side only. This will force the splits up, which you can see in the vids. An additional wing above will not allow the wood to rise/spread and compress the splits. I made the same mistake. I ended up cutting the bottom wings off and flipping them over and the top wing is only sharpen on the top side, same way your current wings are, and angled up at the back to allow the wood room to pass between the wings. I still see compression on really big rounds and think I should have angled the top wedge into a Vee shape, instead of having both wings welded at 90degrees to the main wedge. I have a 5in cyl and can force the wood thru the compression, but if I ever break the wings off, I will probably change the top wing to a vee.

I have to ask, is that a Troybilt tiller in the background with really large tire and some kind of sulky????
 
I have pondered the idea of a V on the top but for some reason.. probably my OCD I like square/rectangle shaped wood.. I know it sounds crazy.. LOL.. I like the idea of angling the wings I didnt think of that.. my cylinder is 5 inches also.. thanks!!
It doesnt take much of an angle to allow the wood to spread and slide thru. The way mine is now, even when the wood is split, it still has to be forced thru the wings. If I wasnt building a processor now, I would probably cut my top wings off and add some upward angle when I welded them back on. Like I said, its only a problem with large dia wood.
 
what ever it is..he has some boss hog tars on the machine!
I had forgot about that thing. o_OIt is a troybilt tiller I converted to be a tater digger. Its made to just scoop under the tater hills and roll the taters out of the ground. The troybilt tires couldnt get enough tracton to pull the vibrating digger thru the soil. I took some old trailer hubs and made adapters to bolt the tires off my Steiner tractor on it, hopeing that would be enough to make it work. It didnt, the troybuilt tiller is just to light and it will spin when you lower the blade into the ground. I am afraid to add any weight to the machine for fear the gear box wont take the pressure. I have all the tiller parts and plan on just turning it back into a tiller.
 

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make sure that when the cylinder is fully extended that the piston seals do not go under the larger retract port. If the seal does go under the port there is a good chance you will tear the seals up.
 
Finally got back started on my processor.. Got the valves re positioned, winch installed and log ramp installed.. Getting ready to mount the hydraulic chain saw .. Maybe next week .. Hopefully it will be ready by wood season!
 
Got a piece of 1 1/2 x6 cold rolled flat to weld on behind my wedge so I can slip the 4 way splitter wedge over it..
 

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Itching to get back to my build. Dragged out the track torch table today and laid out a bunch of plate to be cut. I can still feel the stress on my shoulder picking up any real weight, but I have everything ready when some sucker, ah, I mean one of my friends happens to stop by.
 
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