- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,093
He said his spark was good too, but that won't say anything about a sheared key.
sthil 026 rebuild gone wrong
- Thread starter muddstopper
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I'll admit, I was hopeing for a quick fix, the saw was a freebe and HLSupply had the p/c kit on sale for $16.95 so I thought I would take a chance. With that said, I didnt even consider tearing the saw all the way down for a complete rebuild. Was hopeing for a slambam thank you Ma'm. Why is it never that easy. We have missed all the snow, only rain in my area, I plan on messing with the saw some later today. I'll try dripping some fuel in the carb and see if it fires. Saw was running when they shut it off after straight gassing it, they said..... I kind of doubt stripped keyway, and a strippd key doesnt explain the plug not getting wet after yanking the cord until worn out. The saw set in the actic over the guys shop for 3 or 4 years. I am betting its the carb dried out, probably full of corrosion.. One other thing, when I drained the gas tank, it looked like burnt motor oil poured out, the gas was that dark. I'll pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and see what that does.
snowing like one of them Christmas balls you shake up here in South Central VA
Here to.
Even the rain has stopped here, but it does seem to be getting colder.
Been fiddleing with the carb.. Took apart and cleaned. Removed low and high screws and sprayed cleaner thru them. Few drops of gas down the carb throat and it cranked,, albeit, it smoked aplenty. Saw will now crank but wont rev or run. I suspect I dont have the low and high screws exactly right. High is out one full turn, low out 1 1/2 turns. Is this close enough for a starting point. This is the number of turns I counted before removing the screws.
mobilemech13
ArboristSite Operative
H/L screw settings for a starting point, 1 turn out. If it won't rev and smokes, take the spark arrester screen out and see if it's covered in carbon/oil fouling. If it can't get exhaust out, it can't rev.
^^^^^ This! Might even be a mud stopper in there!
mobilemech13
ArboristSite Operative
The H/L screws should be turned all the way in until lightly seated, then turn out 1 turn for a starting point.
No spark arrester screen, either already been removed or it didnt have one. I'll start over on the h/l screws and see if it makes a dfference. It did idle for about a minute,, but only bogged when I tried to rev it up.
1 turn out v 1.5 makes a big difference try it.
So you cleaned the carb, and put it back together, but you did not put a new kit in it ?
Kits are so cheap, just get a good one and redo it properly. Go easy on the carb cleaner, and the compressed air, the main jet has a poppet valve, and too much air can damage it, some have another poppet valve in the idle circuit under the pressed plate.
If its old, diaphragms get stiff, wont pump fuel etc, also check your filter, fuel line and impulse line for condition.
You have proven it can run, now do it right.
Kits are so cheap, just get a good one and redo it properly. Go easy on the carb cleaner, and the compressed air, the main jet has a poppet valve, and too much air can damage it, some have another poppet valve in the idle circuit under the pressed plate.
If its old, diaphragms get stiff, wont pump fuel etc, also check your filter, fuel line and impulse line for condition.
You have proven it can run, now do it right.
I plan on getting a kit, Its the weekend, I just dont have one on hand and I wanted to try and see if it would run. It will at least crank so I am fairly sure fixing the carb will fix the saw, which is what I needed to know. If I have to order a kit, I will probably just go ahead and order a new impluse line and fuel line, but the old ones look ok as I checked them when I had the top end off the saw. Getting old carb adjusted might be all the saw needs now.
No worries mate, have found old stiff parts in the carb often cause problems.
yes, I have done the old clean up will cure many issues, prove the saw works, then go about replacing fuel lines, carb kit etc forgot its still the weekend in other parts of the world.
yes, I have done the old clean up will cure many issues, prove the saw works, then go about replacing fuel lines, carb kit etc forgot its still the weekend in other parts of the world.
I figured you didnt read where I said I didnt have a carb kit. I just couldnt leave it setting without knowing for certain what the problem was. I still aint certain, but the finger is pointing to the carb. I hope my dealer has a kit in stock I can pick up tomorrow, otherwise I will have to order and wait a week.No worries mate, have found old stiff parts in the carb often cause problems.
yes, I have done the old clean up will cure many issues, prove the saw works, then go about replacing fuel lines, carb kit etc forgot its still the weekend in other parts of the world.
wewing
ArboristSite Lurker
or order a complete, ready to go carb. for $40. search ebay for. I have purchased two from this seller.
Genuine Walbro carburetor, WT-194-1, fits Stihl 024AV, 024S, 024, 026, M260
Genuine Walbro carburetor, WT-194-1, fits Stihl 024AV, 024S, 024, 026, M260
I used to rebuild them and sometimes they still wouldn't act right. Now I replace them with OEM. It cost a little more but the piece of mind is worth it. Now with some of the older carbs you gotta rebuild.
drf255
BAD CAD
I’m with this guy here. Will take you all of 5 min and cost nothing.
Until you experience this yourself, you wouldn’t think of checking it.
Pretty much the only thing that’s missing in the equation for a running saw, fuel/compression/spark (at the right time).
I’ve also had ported husky saws hit the plug ground strap, close the spark gap, and behave the same way.
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 7,785
- Reaction score
- 10,433
In my education and experience, chainsaws carbs are finicky. Very tiny components that are damaged easily and difficult to visually identify. After some due diligence, it is best to bite the bullet and get a new one. Luckily they can be very inexpensive to purchase AM.
I have an 017 and an MS170 on my bench...both with bad carbs. New carbs are only about $2 more than kits. So, the new carbs are in the mail now headed my way! Just ain't worth fiddling with an old carb unless it's all you've got to work with at the moment. Oh and carb cleaner is not really a good thing to use on these little Walbro's and Zama's. Tends to kill the non-replaceable check valve. They recommend using mineral spirits and that seems to work well for me when I try to revive one in a quick pinch.
