sthil 026 rebuild gone wrong

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Take off the starter. mark a spot on the case close to the flywheel. insert a piston stop or long spark plug which stops the piston. Rotate the flywheel until it stops. Mark the position on the flywheel at the case mark. Rotate it the other way and mark the flywheel. Measure halfway between the marks and mark with a different color. This is TDC.
No special tools or skill needed. Mike
 
pioneerguy600 said:
My post was really about the accuracy aspect and I may have laughed too hard and had tears in my eyes when I posted. I have tried the magnet alignment at TDC and it works if I put a piston stop in the sparkplug hole and fiddle with it til the piston barely kisses the stop at TDC, the magnets are still not perfectly aligned but close enough to make the engine run or pop as some say. My initial thought was that few new comers that come on here and ask for help would have either a piston stop or any other accurate means of finding TDC accurately. I watched several fellows fiddle with screwdrivers inserted into the cylinder trying to find TDC but since the sparkplug hole is not straight up nor centered in the cylinder bore the screwdriver gets pushed up but gets further sideways as the piston nears TDC, they just could not tell where TDC was with any accuracy. I showed each of them a piston stop I had made that would work but the common ones are too long, the threads would be completely out of the sparkplug hole before the piston reached TDC rendering them not easy for a beginner to use for finding such. Yes they can be used with a degree wheel but few beginners have one of them either.
Click to expand...
True Professor
 
If as all of the rest was true, he couldn't start on priming/ether, piston/cyl. was new, had spark, etc..
Checking the flywheel key/timing is sure worth checking.
 
HarleyT said:
If as all of the rest was true, he couldn't start on priming/ether, piston/cyl. was new, had spark, etc..
Checking the flywheel key/timing is sure worth checking.
Click to expand...
I think I just flooded it by pouring gas straight into the carb. Next day it fired first pull, a little tune and its good to go. In fact its gone now. Think some might be over thinking the whole thing and making a problem where there wasnt any. When it didnt run, first thing I checked was spark. With spark it needs gas, a drop or two of gas and it would hit and try to run. Yea, it could have a sheard keyway, but why should it, it was straight gassed and that is why it needed a topend. If it had been getting gas and spark, then next step might be check the keyway, but there was no obvious reason to suspect the keyway with the first try to crank. Or no reason that I could see to make me suspect the key might be sheared.
 
Yeah, trying to help folks 600 miles away, and only hearing "snipets" of the story, having someone check something free
and easy before spending money, buying leakdown testers, replacing seals, trying new coils from innocent E-Bay sellers, and so on, and on....
You may have loosened the flywheel nut in your "work" on the saw, who can say?
Hell, the pro's here have a hard time removing a clutch or flywheel without destroying something.

Checking a flywheel is free and easy.

Hell, doing a simple "fuel squirt" test is about as easy as it gets, and you still messed that one up!!!
 
HarleyT said:
Yeah, trying to help folks 600 miles away, and only hearing "snipets" of the story, having someone check something free
and easy before spending money, buying leakdown testers, replacing seals, trying new coils from innocent E-Bay sellers, and so on, and on....
You may have loosened the flywheel nut in your "work" on the saw, who can say?
Hell, the pro's here have a hard time removing a clutch or flywheel without destroying something.

Checking a flywheel is free and easy.

Hell, doing a simple "fuel squirt" test is about as easy as it gets, and you still messed that one up!!!
Click to expand...
Most things are easy when you know how to do them.But if you don't it can be a *****!
 
lone wolf said:
Most things are easy when you know how to do them.But if you don't it can be a *****!
Click to expand...
Yeah baby.
I suggest things here to try and help folks, and try to keep them wasting a lot of time and money, etc..
Check the simple and easy stuff first, as most of the time it is just a spot of water in the fuel, or whatever.

Some of the experts here give some real bad advice, and these guys tear up there saws because of it.

And if I give a suggestion here, and it goes ignored, because folks are telling the O.P. it is a blown seal or bad coil or whatever, and gives him suggestions on how to remove a clutch/flywheel, to replace a seal that he is told has to be bad, without even testing it, well, and so on.......

I always suggest checking and testing, before going online and ordering crap.

And I always tell them how to do things properly, with low risk of them tearing up their stuff.

There is a whole lot of bad advice out there on how to work on stuff. Just because it is on A-site or Youtube doesn't make it good advice....
 
HarleyT said:
Yeah baby.
I suggest things here to try and help folks, and try to keep them wasting a lot of time and money, etc..
Check the simple and easy stuff first, as most of the time it is just a spot of water in the fuel, or whatever.

Some of the experts here give some real bad advice, and these guys tear up there saws because of it.

And if I give a suggestion here, and it goes ignored, because folks are telling the O.P. it is a blown seal or bad coil or whatever, and gives him suggestions on how to remove a clutch/flywheel, to replace a seal that he is told has to be bad, without even testing it, well, and so on.......

I always suggest checking and testing, before going online and ordering crap.

And I always tell them how to do things properly, with low risk of them tearing up their stuff.

There is a whole lot of bad advice out there on how to work on stuff. Just because it is on A-site or Youtube doesn't make it good advice....
Click to expand...
I see you always give very good advice yes. It seems they don't know how to follow up in the right order, IDK! I watch You Tube videos of saw repairs and tree cutting as a comedy mainly, 9 out of ten are stupid as hell!
 
HarleyT said:
Yeah, trying to help folks 600 miles away, and only hearing "snipets" of the story, having someone check something free
and easy before spending money, buying leakdown testers, replacing seals, trying new coils from innocent E-Bay sellers, and so on, and on....
You may have loosened the flywheel nut in your "work" on the saw, who can say?
Hell, the pro's here have a hard time removing a clutch or flywheel without destroying something.

Checking a flywheel is free and easy.

Hell, doing a simple "fuel squirt" test is about as easy as it gets, and you still messed that one up!!!
Click to expand...
You are right on several points. A lot of difference in hearing about a problem and actually being there. You are also correct about bad advice. Your loose flywheel being one such example, altho I am sure the suggestion was meant to be helpful. I dont claim to be a pro like you, but I dont have a problem removing a clutch or flywheel or accidently loosenng flywheel nuts. Guess you have to be a real pro to make those kinds of mistakes. Real pros also dont hang around internet forums trolling just to start a argument.
 

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