malce
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl oli gear
Ok, any way you can.
malce
Ok, any way you can.
malce
Stihl 015AV
- Thread starter fogelber
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Fish
Tree Freak
Stihl 11166471801 SPUR GEAR-3/8" PICCO - Stihl Parts 1116 007 1005 Thru 1126 162 3000
Here's a cheaper one online.
Here's a cheaper one online.
malce
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl oil gear
Hi, I have tried to buy off them before but they will not ship to the UK either, but if you can get one for me then I can pay you via paypal.
malce
Hi, I have tried to buy off them before but they will not ship to the UK either, but if you can get one for me then I can pay you via paypal.
malce
Fish
Tree Freak
I'll check some other sources tomorrow.
Glockmaster16
ArboristSite Lurker
Quick Fix On A Stihl 015 Kill Switch
Well I just acquired another Stihl 015 saw in great shape except that the kill switch did not work. Great I thought, now I can try out a quick fix I talked about earlier. After removing the starter recoil cover, I then removed the throttle linkage and then the kill switch. The switch was in great shape. I then took a pair of mini needle nose pliers and pulled the kill switch wire at the contact out of the grommet about 1-1 1/2 inches. Then I soldered the wire and contact together after crimping the two. When the wire and contact were cool to the touch, I checked the wire with a meter and now I had continuity. I then installed the kill switch, throttle linkage and the recoil starter cover. I pulled the spark plug out and installed it into the spark plug wire. I attached a lead to the saw and the other end to the side electrode of the plug so as to have a good ground. With the kill switch off(back) I pulled the starter rope and got a nice blue spark. Now I placed the kill switch to stop (forward) and pulled the starter rope and got no spark. I did this several times to make sure the quick fix worked. I am very happy with this procedure and will try this first before replacing the kill switch wire, which by no means is an easy task. This procedure is cost effective, less time consuming and easy.
Well I just acquired another Stihl 015 saw in great shape except that the kill switch did not work. Great I thought, now I can try out a quick fix I talked about earlier. After removing the starter recoil cover, I then removed the throttle linkage and then the kill switch. The switch was in great shape. I then took a pair of mini needle nose pliers and pulled the kill switch wire at the contact out of the grommet about 1-1 1/2 inches. Then I soldered the wire and contact together after crimping the two. When the wire and contact were cool to the touch, I checked the wire with a meter and now I had continuity. I then installed the kill switch, throttle linkage and the recoil starter cover. I pulled the spark plug out and installed it into the spark plug wire. I attached a lead to the saw and the other end to the side electrode of the plug so as to have a good ground. With the kill switch off(back) I pulled the starter rope and got a nice blue spark. Now I placed the kill switch to stop (forward) and pulled the starter rope and got no spark. I did this several times to make sure the quick fix worked. I am very happy with this procedure and will try this first before replacing the kill switch wire, which by no means is an easy task. This procedure is cost effective, less time consuming and easy.
malce
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl 015
Hi, do not bother yourself looking around for a cheaper one, the price from Norwalk power is okay, just let me know the price with p&p and the email address you want the money sending to, and I will send it to you via paypal.
malce
Hi, do not bother yourself looking around for a cheaper one, the price from Norwalk power is okay, just let me know the price with p&p and the email address you want the money sending to, and I will send it to you via paypal.
malce
Fish
Tree Freak
Me too brother!!!!!!! I do **** like that in the winter.....
Fish
Tree Freak
malce
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl oil gear
okay, no problem
okay, no problem
malce
ArboristSite Lurker
Stihl 015
Hi, I take it you have lost interest in getting it for me?
Hi, I take it you have lost interest in getting it for me?
fogelber
ArboristSite Lurker
Update on my endeavours
Well, it's been awhile, and aside from using the saw to help with some storm cleanup, I've had it my shed and I completely broke it down. I did buy an electronic ignition chip and successfully converted the saw to electronic ignition. I also got the kill switch working again. When I had the saw opened up, I was able to re-seat the wire and get it making good contact with the spring. That and the combination of converting it to electronic ignition got it working again. I put on a brand new sprocket, a new fuel line, a new recoil spring, and a new starter rope. I just got a carb rebuild kit in the mail and I will be rebuilding the carb as soon as I can find a few free hours. Then it will be time to reassemble the old girl and test it all out!
Well, it's been awhile, and aside from using the saw to help with some storm cleanup, I've had it my shed and I completely broke it down. I did buy an electronic ignition chip and successfully converted the saw to electronic ignition. I also got the kill switch working again. When I had the saw opened up, I was able to re-seat the wire and get it making good contact with the spring. That and the combination of converting it to electronic ignition got it working again. I put on a brand new sprocket, a new fuel line, a new recoil spring, and a new starter rope. I just got a carb rebuild kit in the mail and I will be rebuilding the carb as soon as I can find a few free hours. Then it will be time to reassemble the old girl and test it all out!
fogelber
ArboristSite Lurker
Carb Adjustment/New Sprocket Issue
Well, as I stated, I rebuilt the carb and put on a new clutch drum/sprocket. Today, I made my first attempt at adjusting the carb. Per my manual, I screwed the High and Low screws out 3/4 of a turn from a slightly seated position. Then, I tried to make the fine tuning adjustments, and while I felt like I was able to get the Low set correctly, when I went to set the idle, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage, no matter how low I set the idle. It seems like the clutch and drum are bound up. When I shut the saw off, I was able to turn the clutch by trying to spin the drum. So, I took it all back off, and made sure the thrust washer was on correctly and it was. The drum spins fine until I reinstall the clutch, and then they seem to get stuck together. Is this symtomatic of a new clutch drum that just needs to get "broken in" in a bit? Has anyone run into a poolry fitting new sprocket like this before? I replace the spring that holds on the two clutch shoes last summer, so I know that is plenty strong. I figure I can get the saw running and use it, but I don't like the idea of the chain continuing to spin even at idle. It would suck to put it down and run into the chain or something. Any advice would definitely be appreciated. This is the first time I've ever tried to adjust a carb, so it's totally possible I'm doing it wrong.
Well, as I stated, I rebuilt the carb and put on a new clutch drum/sprocket. Today, I made my first attempt at adjusting the carb. Per my manual, I screwed the High and Low screws out 3/4 of a turn from a slightly seated position. Then, I tried to make the fine tuning adjustments, and while I felt like I was able to get the Low set correctly, when I went to set the idle, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage, no matter how low I set the idle. It seems like the clutch and drum are bound up. When I shut the saw off, I was able to turn the clutch by trying to spin the drum. So, I took it all back off, and made sure the thrust washer was on correctly and it was. The drum spins fine until I reinstall the clutch, and then they seem to get stuck together. Is this symtomatic of a new clutch drum that just needs to get "broken in" in a bit? Has anyone run into a poolry fitting new sprocket like this before? I replace the spring that holds on the two clutch shoes last summer, so I know that is plenty strong. I figure I can get the saw running and use it, but I don't like the idea of the chain continuing to spin even at idle. It would suck to put it down and run into the chain or something. Any advice would definitely be appreciated. This is the first time I've ever tried to adjust a carb, so it's totally possible I'm doing it wrong.
fogelber
ArboristSite Lurker
Oops
I determined that the thrust washer was the issue. It had gotten slightly deformed somehow, so when I tightened down the clunch, the washer was getting bound up with the clutch drum. I pounded it back into shape and now the clutch drum spins freely. Then I set about attempting to adjust the carb again, and eventually gave up when the saw wouldn't start anymore. I watched a few videos on carb rebuilds and realized I made a few mistakes. So, I'll be tearing the saw down again and starting over. The adventure continues...
I determined that the thrust washer was the issue. It had gotten slightly deformed somehow, so when I tightened down the clunch, the washer was getting bound up with the clutch drum. I pounded it back into shape and now the clutch drum spins freely. Then I set about attempting to adjust the carb again, and eventually gave up when the saw wouldn't start anymore. I watched a few videos on carb rebuilds and realized I made a few mistakes. So, I'll be tearing the saw down again and starting over. The adventure continues...
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
What mistakes did you find after watching some videos? It sounded like you had it running.
fogelber
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't push the screen back down into it's housing on the fuel pump side. Total rookie mistake. It appeared to be larger than the housing, so I left it loose over the top of the hole. Then, I need to make sure I put the correct circuit plate/gasket on the other side. I couldn't figure out why there were two in the kit when only one was in there. Read up on it, and while I think I got it right, I just want to double-check. There was a small rubber duck bill valve in the kit I had that I couldn't figure out what to do with, and a small "C" clip. The parts breakdown described a small screen that should be under the circuit plate, but I couldn't see one and couldn't get the old clip out. I don't remember seeing a second, smaller screen in the kit I got.
When I first got it running and tried adjusting the carb, I couldn't get it to accelerate. It would die as soon as I gave it the gas. I could get it to idle, but that was about it. This is all a learning process for me. If you have any advice, I would love to hear it!
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
It sounds like your on the right track. The kit is a complete universal kit. It comes with more than you need for your carb but the extras will fit a different carb.
WoodBossAddict
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm performing the exact opposite. Taking the modern day Stihl MS 150 TC travel back in time. Installing a 72DL bar from ole school Stihl 015 and guess what guys? 72DL DOESN'T MATCH UP.. Needs to be at least 2 DL longer if not more? I'll keep you good posted.. For a $500 top handle it better scream when I'm done!
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,191
- Reaction score
- 25,063
So they make a 1/4" sprocket to fit it?
WoodBossAddict
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes a modern day Stihl MS 150 TC or TCE comes standard with a 1/4" pitch bar and sprocket.. But it's a wanna be pointy carving bar instead of the regular standard tree climbers 14" round nose bar.
No face 243
ArboristSite Member
I acquired a stihl 015 av and really love the saw. My father in law has had his forever and loves it and I have used it since I met him and think it's a great saw. So I jumped at the opportunity to own one. Is it really worth fixing it when it has ignition issues in with the points and condenser? I have no issue doing the work on it, however when I go to the stihl dealer they try and talk me out of the saw. Are they just trying to sell newer saws or are they really not as great as I'm thinking they are? Or is it time to find a better stihl dealer?
