Stihl 017 Handle

[a. palmer jr.]

Anybody know an easy way to remove the handle from an 017 Stihl saw? I've already put a little spray silicone on the rubber plugs but haven't figured out where to pry on this thing to get it to come loose. I watched a video about it but the guy doing it didn't seem to know much more than me about it, he ended up tearing all the grommets up.

 

[altatim]

Make sure you got all the screws out (middle of handle and front and back of engine housing on clutch side. They are hidden behind plastic screw covers. Then just wiggle it out. The bushings can kind of be pulled out too if its really stubborn.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Make sure you got all the screws out (middle of handle and front and back of engine housing on clutch side. They are hidden behind plastic screw covers. Then just wiggle it out. The bushings can kind of be pulled out too if its really stubborn.

That's the way it is on an 029 but not on an 017; there are no screws holding the handle on, just the plugs. I just saw another video on this and all he did was wrestle the handle off the rubber grommets. I just thought someone came up with a "pry point" or something. I tried to pull the handle off the grommets but in the video he pushed the grommets into the handle then lifted it off.

 

[altatim]

That's the way it is on an 029 but not on an 017; there are no screws holding the handle on, just the plugs. I just saw another video on this and all he did was wrestle the handle off the rubber grommets. I just thought someone came up with a "pry point" or something. I tried to pull the handle off the grommets but in the video he pushed the grommets into the handle then lifted it off.

Well mark me as wrong lol. I personally have never gone that deep into an 017/ms170 seeing how cheap they are, normally a carb kit and off to the races

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yes, the 017-170 are cheap saws but for the price I have in the two they're hard to beat. After all this checking I found the easiest way to take the bar off. I used silicone spray on the rubber grommets and pushed them in until the bar came loose. It's best to use a sequence, upper rear grommet first, lower rear grommet next and lastly the front grommet. Putting them back in using the opposite sequence, front one first, etc. Now that I have it looking like a chainsaw the next thing is to see if it runs. I checked the piston and it was good looking through the exhaust port and it seems to have good compression.

 

[Oletrapper]

Yes, the 017-170 are cheap saws but for the price I have in the two they're hard to beat. After all this checking I found the easiest way to take the bar off. I used silicone spray on the rubber grommets and pushed them in until the bar came loose. It's best to use a sequence, upper rear grommet first, lower rear grommet next and lastly the front grommet. Putting them back in using the opposite sequence, front one first, etc. Now that I have it looking like a chainsaw the next thing is to see if it runs. I checked the piston and it was good looking through the exhaust port and it seems to have good compression.

I have to ask. lol How did you break the handle? OT

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have to ask. lol How did you break the handle? OT

I didn't break the handle; saw was given to me and was missing the handle and the muffler. I was given another one that had a handle and muffler so I transplanted them to the other saw.

 

[Oletrapper]

I didn't break the handle; saw was given to me and was missing the handle and the muffler. I was given another one that had a handle and muffler so I transplanted them to the other saw.

Ah ha, Now we know the rest of the story. Good deal. OT

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I think I may have to transplant another part; the parts saw has a fully adjustable carburetor whereas the "good" saw has a non-adjustable Walbro, so I'll probably trade them after I give it a good cleaning and rebuild kit. Apparently the adjustable carb came with the saw because the airbox has holes for the adjustment screws.