Stihl 066 and ATF

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Bar oil was not always around, single grade oils were once factory recommended as bar lubricant. Used motor oil has been used on chain bars forever, those bars and chains lasted out the useful life expected of them at the time. I clearly rember buying and using SAE 20 by the steel gallon can from Texaco all through the 60`s and a chainbar lasted as long as most saws did. I have worn out more bars using proper bar oil over the years, likely due to increased chain speed.
Pioneerguy600
 
I've seen just about every possible lubricant used as bar and chain lube. I wouldn't worry about flushing it, just top off with regular bar oil and run it.
 
ATF is probably pretty spendy to use regularly, but there are some winter grade bar lubes out there that are probably little different than the base lubes in ATF...without the additives. I personally don't bother anymore with blending kerosene or thinners into bar lube. Let the chainsaws and oil jugs ride in the truck on cold days, and once they're running engine heat keeps things warm. If its more than 20 below I probably won't go out if I don't have to...

Isn't dyed bar lube required by law somewhere?
 
I wouldn't hesitate to use ATF mixed into regular grade bar oil for the winter! Sometimes its pretty thick if you keep it in the back of the truck. I would not use it straight, but thats just me:thinking:
 
I think it would work great to stretch regular bar oil. Just mix it to the viscosity that you felt was good for your conditions. And you could ask for more from one of the oil-changing stations they have set up at Wally's or Freddy's for lots of free oil.
 
I've seen just about every possible lubricant used as bar and chain lube. I wouldn't worry about flushing it, just top off with regular bar oil and run it.
You got that right,I'll use damn near anything thats clean except rear end lube.If you get that stuff on your pants the only way you'll get the smell out is with sissors.
 
absolutely.

hey rupe,
why not go out and replace your metal or atf rated rubber trans cooling lines with some rubber fuel line.
let us know how that works out for ya. ;)

Oh BS. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt, wore it out, used it as a grease rag. Like you say there isn't any 100% rubber anymore (actually rubber is white).
 
Chill out guys. Petroleum is petroleum, If its rated for fuel it'll work for fuel, gear oil, motor oil, kerosene, or diesel. Fuel and oil will however eat up brake lines and motor mounts because they are normal rubber. While ATF shouldn't hurt fuel line, bar oil and motor oil probably would hurt the "rubber" in an auto trans.
 
Ive ran a little bit of everything for bar oil, even the dreaded used motor oil, only reason i dont use it much is its such a damn mess and makes my saws dirty. I have never had any oiler probs mo matter what i used.
 
Dont be so harsh..not all rubbers are the same..everyone knows that...most o-rings are neoprene...Im more worried about the older rubber used in old macs oil lines..thats why i asked..that how the F that idea got started. So chill out.

No issues so far in Macs from the 2.0EBs to the SP125s.

Any of the older impulse powered pump parts seem to benifit from the ATF.

Type F all the way through Mercon V so far. It can be more expensive but I do not purchase the ATF as it was sample batchs. The used ATF also seemed to work but was much stinkier on the cloths. I did not buy the used stuff.

Thinned the gear lube with ATF, worked fine but long term storaged it seemed to cause corrosion on the crank cases. Smell bad.
 
I never even thought of corrosion in the oil tank....you posted some useful info here....thank you.

Just to be clear, the ATF seemed/s fine, it was the gear lube and gear lube/ATF that caused the corrosion.

The gear lube was new, also from off the shelf batch samples.

I would still use ATF if I got it cheaper than TSC bar oil.
 
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