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Stihl 070 stalls in cut
- Thread starter Robin Wood
- Start date
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Your chain is the thing I would suspect the most. After reading this entire thread my spider senses are directed toward the chain. No matter that it is a ,new chain, many new chains I have handled were defective right out of the box. One chain I took out of the box had the cutters sharpened on one side, the opposite side cutters had never been finish ground. A chain I just got and put on my 066 never had the depth gauges ground, they were only .005 lower than the cutters. Another chain a year or so ago had the depth gauges ground uneven from one side to the other and varied by .020. Don`t trust a new chain just because it is new.
wow that's a bummer, i have bought and used lots chains especially on my top handles but luckily didn't encounter such issues so far
i think "lemons" do get passed on occasionally to some people
its 0.063 gauge with .404 pitch oilmatic stihl chain
checked most of the teeth with a glance looks alright, did cut a dead stump with termite nest in the middle(earth+weird resin like thingy)
also did alot dead dry stumps, i find .404 pitch takes alot abuse before showing any sign of dulling compared to other smaller pitches
could that have ruined the chain somehow ?
i think "lemons" do get passed on occasionally to some people
its 0.063 gauge with .404 pitch oilmatic stihl chain
checked most of the teeth with a glance looks alright, did cut a dead stump with termite nest in the middle(earth+weird resin like thingy)
also did alot dead dry stumps, i find .404 pitch takes alot abuse before showing any sign of dulling compared to other smaller pitches
could that have ruined the chain somehow ?
Easily!
The chain may not be ruined but the cutters must be completely sharp on both sides to maintain straight cuts when the whole bar is engaged. Look very closely at the very tip of the cutters edges, right where the top plate angle meets the side plate and if you can see a glint of light being reflected from that tip your chain is already dull.
yes i was hoping to find something like that, most of the edges do look good like paper
but then again cant be too sure until i take off the chain from the bar and inspect each teeth under a properly lit table
will do that, thanks for commenting guys really appreciate it
but then again cant be too sure until i take off the chain from the bar and inspect each teeth under a properly lit table
will do that, thanks for commenting guys really appreciate it
Give that chain a good close inspection under good lighting, if you can see any glint off the supposed sharp cutting edges then that chain must be re sharpened to make it balance out for those fully buried cuts so that the chain will not wander off to one side, thus jamming the bar.
Think of it this way, the sharper cutters cut the fastest and easiest, the chain will cut the kerf in that direction due to the duller cutters not cutting away the fiber fast enough to keep up with the sharper cutters, the kerf will deflect toward the sharper cutters side.
Think of it this way, the sharper cutters cut the fastest and easiest, the chain will cut the kerf in that direction due to the duller cutters not cutting away the fiber fast enough to keep up with the sharper cutters, the kerf will deflect toward the sharper cutters side.
There is no reason at all to run more than 32:1 with modern synthetic oil. It sounds to me like your problem is the rakers are too low.
Phil, Can't this only be done with the govenor disabled.
Out of the cut at WOT the choke will close. It was to my
understanding that these 070's and 090's the carb can
only really be adjusted properly under full load or you will
end up with a very lean condition.
Robin, What do you chips look like coming out of the wood
and can you post a pic of your chain. If your chain isn't doing
it's job it could be over heating and binding in the bar.
Lee
Unless the governor had been disabled, an 070/090 will 4-stroke with the H needle set most anywhere. As soon as the flywheel fan begins to move enough air, it will close the choke and immediately go WAY rich.
The bar is binding when the chain cuts out to one side faster than the other, just needs to be re sharpened.
Hi,
I just glimpsed through this thread and didn't notice anybody asked , so I will - have You swapped out the entire clutch assembly or just the clutch drum?
If You only swapped out the clutch drum , Your clutch weights might be worn out too much to properly engage the drums surface and thus "slip"!
Considering You mentioned a "bluish mark" on Your old clutch , it is apparent that it slipped a lot causing friction and heat , instead of engaging and turning the clutch drum at equal rpm's!
Also , take off the clutch drum and make sure it isn't oily.
Same goes for the clutch weights , de-grease as good as possible.
I have to do this every now and then on my Dolmar PS6400 as the chain oil always finds its way into the clutch drum allowing/causing "clutch slip" under full load (20" bar buried) - once wiped clean with a dry cloth the issue is gone.
If Your issue hasn't been resolved , maybe this helps!
Cheers
Correct!...This is why in the same post i asked the OP if he has a work shop manual.
.........And at present the governor is coming in at half throttle in the cut.
Robin, If you don't have a work shop manual or can't find one where you are, I can scan the relevant pages Re: tuning / governor settings and email them to you.
pioneerguy600: yes its cutting towards right side, so i will check right side cutters properly
blsnelling: its new chain less likely the rakers but if it is i wont be buying stihl chains no more. Synthetic oils are way too expensive here, everyone uses minerals over here
leeha: thats someting new, like tuning without load isnt hard enough. the chips are wide and long like usual new chain spits
wde_1978: i thought clutch/drum wear symptoms are saw hold revs but chain slows down ?
blsnelling: its new chain less likely the rakers but if it is i wont be buying stihl chains no more. Synthetic oils are way too expensive here, everyone uses minerals over here
leeha: thats someting new, like tuning without load isnt hard enough. the chips are wide and long like usual new chain spits
wde_1978: i thought clutch/drum wear symptoms are saw hold revs but chain slows down ?
yes pls do, can you post it here or do you need my email ?
the governor flap was bent so it wont activate, my dealer says its better to let it that way
he says you dont want the governor kick in when finishing backcut or any cut that needs speed
but i asked him to richen it
wonder what to do next should i put back the governor in place or let it be ?
but it does come with a drawback, less p&c, bearing and etc life ?
we found out the chain was not as sharp on certain teeth so that explains the one sided cut, it wasnt too bad just a little
he says you dont want the governor kick in when finishing backcut or any cut that needs speed
but i asked him to richen it
wonder what to do next
should i put back the governor in place or let it be ?but it does come with a drawback, less p&c, bearing and etc life ?
we found out the chain was not as sharp on certain teeth so that explains the one sided cut, it wasnt too bad just a little
any ideas ? advice ?
dilemma with governor+carb setting
dilemma with governor+carb setting
Don't throw the baby out with the bath water. Stihl makes the best chain on the market.
It could be that the rails and groove are worn on your bar too.
Whats up?
