Stihl 070 stalls in cut

[pioneerguy600]

pioneerguy600: yes its cutting towards right side, so i will check right side cutters properly.

If the chain is cutting/running to the right then it is the left hand cutters that will be damaged or dull. The right hand ones are cutting faster and better than the left ones, hence the chain and bar want to go to the right. Both left and right cutters need to be equally sharp on a longer bar when buried in wood.

 

[Eddy_t]

the governor flap was bent so it wont activate, my dealer says its better to let it that way
he says you dont want the governor kick in when finishing backcut or any cut that needs speed
but i asked him to richen it
wonder what to do next should i put back the governor in place or let it be ?
but it does come with a drawback, less p&c, bearing and etc life ?
we found out the chain was not as sharp on certain teeth so that explains the one sided cut, it wasnt too bad just a little

Go to your dealer and shoot him! The governor is extremely important on these saws, they're not fast saws! Too high an rpm will rip the bearings and seals apart, the saw should be limited around 7500rpm, especially an older model. The governor is designed to protect the engine and crank. It achieves this by choking the engine if it goes too fast.
Scoring is scoring on a piston, it needs replacing regardless of where it is, also, check the oil pump for splits in the pipe or diaphragm as that can cause an air leak.

I have my 090 limited to 8k rpm via the carb, with the governor kicking in about 2-500rpm higher (that's as high as you would want).

It's also worth noting, if you have an early model and fit a later clutch ring (the bit between the arms and crankshaft), they don't always fit, allowing the clutch to slip.


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[Robin Wood]

If the chain is cutting/running to the right then it is the left hand cutters that will be damaged or dull. The right hand ones are cutting faster and better than the left ones, hence the chain and bar want to go to the right. Both left and right cutters need to be equally sharp on a longer bar when buried in wood.

i thought if it cuts more to right side the left cutters are taking a good bite ? and vice versa

 

[Robin Wood]

Go to your dealer and shoot him! The governor is extremely important on these saws, they're not fast saws! Too high an rpm will rip the bearings and seals apart, the saw should be limited around 7500rpm, especially an older model. The governor is designed to protect the engine and crank. It achieves this by choking the engine if it goes too fast.
Scoring is scoring on a piston, it needs replacing regardless of where it is, also, check the oil pump for splits in the pipe or diaphragm as that can cause an air leak.

I have my 090 limited to 8k rpm via the carb, with the governor kicking in about 2-500rpm higher (that's as high as you would want).

It's also worth noting, if you have an early model and fit a later clutch ring (the bit between the arms and crankshaft), they don't always fit, allowing the clutch to slip.


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haha i will do it if its possible
yes i notice that, he does this setting to all the loggers saw in my state, and guess what the 070 in his shops comes in for repair ?
exactly friggin bearings, but 070 can really take fair amount of a beating before it breaks down
we had all hoses replaced, but the saw revs high because its set roughly 11k rpm

do you find it hard when felling with low rpms ? does setting it rich with governor lets you "lever" in hard in the cut ?
everyone are in his bandwagon, im kinda alone on this

i dont get what you mean, but i do know this saw had the abrasive like friction surface(asbestos?) clutch shoe but replacement clutch was all metal, newer ones come this way all of it. are you referring to this ?

 

[scallywag]

I believe this is the part Eddy is refering to.

 

[Eddy_t]

Part no 1106 162 9000 is the part I'm referring to, called adaptor sleeve on the IPL. 11k rpm is a hell of a lot higher than what the workshop manual states!
I have no issues with a lower rpm, these saws were designed for torque, so slam on a 10t harvester rim (faller buncher, or whatever other weird names you call them) and push hard in the kerf to keep the revs low! You'll find it's faster through than an 880


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[Robin Wood]

ok im completely clueless on this
can you tell by the gap between clutch and the housing if its good ?
mine is newer ones, starter assy and carbs are last model but it could have been changed though, hopefully it wasnt
i will try richen it more and try load it up or stall in a cut and see if the clutch will hold

 

[Eddy_t]

ok im completely clueless on this
can you tell by the gap between clutch and the housing if its good ?
mine is newer ones, starter assy and carbs are last model but it could have been changed though, hopefully it wasnt
i will try richen it more and try load it up or stall in a cut and see if the clutch will hold

It's dependant on whether you can spin the clutch on the crankshaft or if it turns the crank with the clutch (which is what you want), I know the new one doesn't fit my crankshaft (the older ones were colour coded)


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[Robin Wood]

did some felling today with 070,
stalls occasionally
when sharpening i notice the angle is
unusually different from the other saws
can some one confirm if its ripping or cutting teeth ?
never used ripping chain before,
given the saw grabs like a mad monster
im starting to think its the chain

 

[Robin Wood]

my old man joined us when felling today, he was using 038mag
at one point he wanted try 070 as the stump was 32", handed the saw over
the moment i let off my hand he dropped the saw and was like WTF !!!
is this thing ?! haha he was astonished
once start cuting he was shaking head disbelief. in the end he said i feel my arm being wobbled like a meat slab
had good laugh today lol

 

[Eddy_t]

Looks like chain sharpened at 20-25 degrees to me, should be fine. If it's new chain, it will always be aggressive.


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[Robin Wood]

my 038mag had new chain today, it can cut nonstop on hard dry wood
with no problem, it doesn't grab or stalls or even slow down when u "dig in"
goes right through like slicing cake
i tried to correct it so it looks 20 degree now, initially it looked 15 degree
its super aggressive and grabs like crazy, stalls in the cut
whats up with the metal bulge at the bottom of the gullet ?
its on every teeth

 

[Robin Wood]

just checked with my still new in the box 42" ripping and cross cut chain
looks more similar to cross cut chain, should i file it to 30 degree ?
my other saws are filed at 30 degree and they all cut very well
i cant tell the difference between semi chisel, chisel or whatsoever
but i do know when i sharpen them it will have needle like point at the very end of the top plate
not for 070 chain though

 

[Eddy_t]

A slipping clutch wouldn't stall the saw! As I said further back on the thread, it should have the governor fitted irrespective of what your local saw shop thinks! Have you checked the cylinder to make sure it hasn't seized? What colour is the (spark) plug? Have the pipes been replaced, as the oil pump can cause an air leak! You should also check the points, timing, seals, carb and the boot and gaskets.


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[Robin Wood]

A slipping clutch wouldn't stall the saw! As I said further back on the thread, it should have the governor fitted irrespective of what your local saw shop thinks! Have you checked the cylinder to make sure it hasn't seized? What colour is the (spark) plug? Have the pipes been replaced, as the oil pump can cause an air leak! You should also check the points, timing, seals, carb and the boot and gaskets.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chain stalls but saw still revs,
it has new coils, gasket, diaphragms, clutch and seal kit
hoses all replaced etc
at first i doubt the compression
on 2nd thought it isnt, if i dont use
the decomp to start its almost certain
it will rip my arm out, resistance is very strong i believe compression is good
will check the plug, it was rust colour
when i checked last

 

[Robin Wood]

Chain looks fine is no way that chain could stall your saw true its dull but raker's are high as looks like a new chain? bar and chain in your pics look new .. Hardwood softwood no matter chain should not stall and the power head hold its revs? it all sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.. Whatever you do please don't try and slam on a 10pin! like old mate said LOL, keep it at 7pin for real!.. From what you have said It sure don't sound like your cutting softwood but no matter soft/hardwood your chain in the cut should not stop with the saw holding rev's the clutch is slipping for that to happen......And yeah lots of guys here can help you with keeping your chain sharp stumping is very hard on chains heavy rain will and does splash dirt up into the bark the lower you get on a stump the more crap in the bark.....Anyway your chain looks factory mild the( it grabs like a mad monster) your getting and stalling the chain to me sounds like clutch is slipping no one I don't think has ever used the words monster and 070 in the same line of words? it should mildly and predictably pull the chain through that unless you're giving it no mercy? Its an honest slow revving hard working saw not some fire breathing top fueler all conquering saw most saw's no matter the cc can quote easily be over power by the operrater even an 090 .......Good luck hope you work it out .....

it makes perfectly sense, i will bet on the clutch drum. clutch is new btw
that leaves with the drum
the governor is disengaged and it revs moderately higher so it will try to"run away" from my hands
it has new 30" b&c and im cutting hard dry acacia wood

 

[Eddy_t]

Chain stalls but saw still revs,
it has new coils, gasket, diaphragms, clutch and seal kit
hoses all replaced etc
at first i doubt the compression
on 2nd thought it isnt, if i dont use
the decomp to start its almost certain
it will rip my arm out, resistance is very strong i believe compression is good
will check the plug, it was rust colour
when i checked last

Right, now I'd got the impression the whole saw stalled!
Check the year of manufacture on the muffler, if it's pre 80's, it'll have the two-piece conrod and big end. These came in two sizes. I believe I have mentioned about the clutch carrier ring, unless you have the correct ring for the shaft, it will freely rotate. 1106 162 9000 is the part I'm referring to. If you've checked that for play, it's the clutch and drum.


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[Robin Wood]

it should be the later version
will look at the model no.
cuts well on the small stuff
but revs very very high which is not what this saw is all about and that makes it grabby, screams like crazy too
should i set it more richer ?

 

[Robin Wood]

 

[Eddy_t]

1/8 ccw on the high, you need to shine a light into the cylinder and check for any vertical lines, all I see in the pic is a black hole. When you say the clutch was replaced, do you mean the drum, shoes or the whole carrier assembly?


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