mtngun
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You'll burn through expensive carbide end mills trying to machine those rims. They're made out of sintered metal and have hard stuff in them.
Stihl 076 AV conversion to 3/8 - trouble
- Thread starter phred45
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Brmorgan
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I'm a bit lost - I've never seen a rim that has to be locked onto the oiler drive before. Rims are supposed to be able to float on the drum's splines, no? I'd think the drum should have the cutout areas, much like the larger Husky (288/395 etc.) drums do.
It doesn't have to be locked on, it just needs to be able to float down so it does not contact the pins.
So do some others here, and they speak from experience because they have actually milled these suckers. But how about posting a video of you milling one to show us how easy it is
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Brmorgan
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So do some others here, and they speak from experience because they have actually milled these suckers. But how about posting a video of you milling one to show us how easy it is
opcorn: 
opcorn:
Hi 076 Stihl,
You shouldn't have to mill your own, just make sure you get the right parts. From what I can figure out so far : Bailey's stocks the kit# 1111 640 2025 while the saw needs 1111 640 2026 and the rim for 3/8 should be 0000 642 1215 (like Mtngn's e-bay pic) while Bailey's is 1216. I'll confirm this when my parts from the dealer get here, he is ordering the 2026 kit, lets hope it's right this time.
As far as free floating of the rim: It seems to lock onto the lugs from the oil drum worm so I guess that part is moving with it?
I'm not a mechanic, work on our own cars but that's about it. Wished I knew more about welding like Bobl to make nice rigs. Maybe when I retire
You shouldn't have to mill your own, just make sure you get the right parts. From what I can figure out so far : Bailey's stocks the kit# 1111 640 2025 while the saw needs 1111 640 2026 and the rim for 3/8 should be 0000 642 1215 (like Mtngn's e-bay pic) while Bailey's is 1216. I'll confirm this when my parts from the dealer get here, he is ordering the 2026 kit, lets hope it's right this time.
As far as free floating of the rim: It seems to lock onto the lugs from the oil drum worm so I guess that part is moving with it?
I'm not a mechanic, work on our own cars but that's about it. Wished I knew more about welding like Bobl to make nice rigs. Maybe when I retire
Finally everything fits
The rim came in yesterday. The 0000 642 1215 is correct and floats down over the luggs and runs smoothly. Stihl seems to make two different rims under the same #. One has 3 notches and the other has two. I found the one with 3 notches at a different dealer when I was out of town. They both fit fine.
I fired the saw up for the first time with the bar and chain on and it runs like it should. The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that? Also got the aux oiler and need to install it. This weekend will be the show down. Let's hope it all works.
Thanks for the new milling thread Bobl. Really appreciate all your effort to help.
The rim came in yesterday. The 0000 642 1215 is correct and floats down over the luggs and runs smoothly. Stihl seems to make two different rims under the same #. One has 3 notches and the other has two. I found the one with 3 notches at a different dealer when I was out of town. They both fit fine.
I fired the saw up for the first time with the bar and chain on and it runs like it should. The timing is still off and needs adjusting. Are there any threads on that? Also got the aux oiler and need to install it. This weekend will be the show down. Let's hope it all works.
Thanks for the new milling thread Bobl. Really appreciate all your effort to help.
mtngun
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srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
ignition timing
Good to hear that you've figured out the drive hub issue.
Search the chainsaw posts for adjusting ignition timing or advancing ignition timing and you'll find some procedures on adjusting the timing of your saw. Usually for a stock saw the factory setting is good enough, but I don't know about your model in particular. I would look up threads on adjusting the carb and do that first. Remember a little bit extra rich on the high speed jet for milling will keep your saw from melting during a long cut.
Good to hear that you've figured out the drive hub issue.
Search the chainsaw posts for adjusting ignition timing or advancing ignition timing and you'll find some procedures on adjusting the timing of your saw. Usually for a stock saw the factory setting is good enough, but I don't know about your model in particular. I would look up threads on adjusting the carb and do that first. Remember a little bit extra rich on the high speed jet for milling will keep your saw from melting during a long cut.
Yes, it works fine with the Oregon drum.
The saw is pretty old and well used. I have no idea who owned it and what they may have done. It runs and cuts easily through the little 8 inch maple branch I had sitting around. However it doesn't idle very well and the chain is still moving some in idle. This weekend will be the real test. Do any of you have any suggestions for a cheap Tachometer that works?
The saw is pretty old and well used. I have no idea who owned it and what they may have done. It runs and cuts easily through the little 8 inch maple branch I had sitting around. However it doesn't idle very well and the chain is still moving some in idle. This weekend will be the real test. Do any of you have any suggestions for a cheap Tachometer that works?
mtngun
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Thanks for clarifying that the Oregon drum works. I wanted to clear that up in case someday another 076 owner searches for info on the sprocket problem and looks at this thread.
"Cheap" and "chainsaw tach" don't go together.
The $30 ENM is fine for CSM duty, but its 5 second lag makes it a poor choice for tuning.
"Cheap" and "chainsaw tach" don't go together.
The $30 ENM is fine for CSM duty, but its 5 second lag makes it a poor choice for tuning.
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
I don't want to steal phred45 thread but I wanted to show my new saw.
Its running 404 and after reading the hassle phred45 I think I'll leave it alone for now.
I just did a quick once over and changed the gas and started it up and its sounds like its running a Fine but it dies every few seconds. My gut feeling its related to fuel.
The guy I got it from said it had been sitting for eight months. Any ideas of where to start?
No worries. I really doubt it will be a timing. It sounds like the thing just needs a good tune up.
Well Bobl, let's see. It has a new air filter, fuel filter (cleaned oil and gas tank), spark plug, clutch drum and drive sprocket. Also a new bar and chain. What else should I do? I've also been looking at your oiler configurations for the mill, should have some time to play with that this week end.
Betterbuilt, the main problem here was that I am such a novice with saws and milling that I had no idea what I was looking at. The parts list and repair manual should help a lot. The part numbers for the 404 (7 T) rim sprocket is 0000 642 1206 or the number for the 404 kit is 1111 640 2025. The confusion came in because the wrong 3/8" rim was listed on Bailey's for 076. If you already have a rim sprocket on your saw all you'll need is the right 3/8" 8T sprocket if you want to convert to 3/8", Stihl seems to be the only one that makes it. Since my saw had a spur sprocket I also had to get a clutch drum and removal tool. Bailey's put the 3/8 nose on the bar I bought for free.
Good luck with yours. It'll be nice to compare how they run, once your's is going.
Betterbuilt, the main problem here was that I am such a novice with saws and milling that I had no idea what I was looking at. The parts list and repair manual should help a lot. The part numbers for the 404 (7 T) rim sprocket is 0000 642 1206 or the number for the 404 kit is 1111 640 2025. The confusion came in because the wrong 3/8" rim was listed on Bailey's for 076. If you already have a rim sprocket on your saw all you'll need is the right 3/8" 8T sprocket if you want to convert to 3/8", Stihl seems to be the only one that makes it. Since my saw had a spur sprocket I also had to get a clutch drum and removal tool. Bailey's put the 3/8 nose on the bar I bought for free.
Good luck with yours. It'll be nice to compare how they run, once your's is going.
smokinj
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Tune up on a saw is adjusting the carb
This applies to BB an Phred.
I would change the fuel filter and inspect the fuel hose inside the tank and impulse line closely for cracks and leaks. Then I would do a crankcase pressure test. I'd you do not do this you risk the saw running too lean and overheating.
Finally Would adjust the carby. The final setting should be a little on the rich side.
I would change the fuel filter and inspect the fuel hose inside the tank and impulse line closely for cracks and leaks. Then I would do a crankcase pressure test. I'd you do not do this you risk the saw running too lean and overheating.
Finally Would adjust the carby. The final setting should be a little on the rich side.
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
phred45 I meant to thank you for doing all the leg work on the conversion. I never would have considered that saw if I hadn't read your thread. This saw came with a rim sprocket and the my bar has a helper handle so I can run 3/8 or 404. The other thing was I got it for just about nothing. Thanks
BobL thanks for the tips that exactly what I was thinking. I'll dig into it tomorrow and see a what I find.
Thanks but most of the advice came from the forum. Bobl and Mtngun especially have been tireless with suggestions and advice. I'm glad you got yours cheap. I wasn't so lucky, paid $600 for the powerhead shipping included. Still cheap for such a big saw if it runs well.
I'm a city kid and don't know anything about farm life or big tools but I can learn My wife is a real hands on gal and got me to work on our cars, plumming etc. Our first tractor was a disaster, a real rip off, they certainly saw us comming. Got it mostly rebuild now and really need one twice the size.
Bobl, the compression on the saw was about 150 cold after sitting a long time. Haven't checked it since. What do you use to build up the pressure for the crankcase pressure test? Tried to find a thread on it but only found how to find the leaks.
I'm a city kid and don't know anything about farm life or big tools but I can learn
My wife is a real hands on gal and got me to work on our cars, plumming etc. Our first tractor was a disaster, a real rip off, they certainly saw us comming. Got it mostly rebuild now and really need one twice the size.Bobl, the compression on the saw was about 150 cold after sitting a long time. Haven't checked it since. What do you use to build up the pressure for the crankcase pressure test? Tried to find a thread on it but only found how to find the leaks.
mtngun
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For a vacuum test, use a hand operated vacuum pump which you can get at an auto parts store or at Harbor Freight.
If you want to go a step further, you can also pressure test. There is no storebought device to do this, you would have to slap something together using either a regulator to drop compressed air down to a few psi, or else with something like a bicycle pump. You'd have to scrounge a gage that is accurate at low pressure, and an isolation valve or two.
The vacuum test tells you whether or not the saw has a leak, but doesn't pinpoint the leak. The pressure test makes it easy to find the leak.
Four Paws' vacuum testing thread
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