Stihl 660 - how difficult to replace impulse line?

[gemniii]

The saw won't drop down to idle w/o stalling. Impulse line may need replacing versus a tear down to replace seals. I've got a new impulse line, came w/ kit for fuel line. Months ago I ran across a youtube vid that made replacing the impulse line on the 660 look tricky and complicated, can't find it now.
How difficult is it? How much teardown is involved? Any good links?

 

[stihl86]

Long nose pliers. It very tight. It can be very frustrating. Especially when its not leaking. Could be the manifold, carb to manifold etc etc.
You should have the power head checked for vaccum/pressure leaks. In that order.

 

[dmb2613]

get an oem line

 

[president]

you need to remove rear AV mounts and loosen
the front ones.At that point the tank can be dropped down enough
to pull the line from the case and pulled through the carb box

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Im not afraid of aftermarket hoses usually but...impulse lines from the aftermarket don't usually have the right shape

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[BuckthornBonnie]

Im not afraid of aftermarket hoses usually but...impulse lines from the aftermarket don't usually have the right shape

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Aftermarket fuel and impulse lines will eventually fail...trust me, man.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Aftermarket fuel and impulse lines will eventually fail...trust me, man.

All lines eventually fail. You can't buy Stihl lines and expect them to last forever.

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[BuckthornBonnie]

Right. I’ve personally tried a variety of AM lines and have had failures after a short amount of time in ethanol-free gas. The difference between AM and OEM is the time... one shouldn’t have to replace a fuel line after a few days/months. That happens with AM lines.

The longest I’ve had an AM line last was an 1127 impulse line in an 064. It lasted three years. One from the same “batch” lasted one year in a 290.

 

[HarleyT]

On most models, I find that hemostats and removing the starter cover makes the impulse line easier.

 

[gemniii]

Long nose pliers. It very tight. It can be very frustrating. Especially when its not leaking. Could be the manifold, carb to manifold etc etc.
You should have the power head checked for vaccum/pressure leaks. In that order.

I'd like to do that but wife is paranoid about Covid 19 and me dealing with the hordes of the unmasked. And my tools are limited.

 

[gemniii]

you need to remove rear AV mounts and loosen
the front ones.At that point the tank can be dropped down enough
to pull the line from the case and pulled through the carb box

Great, that does not sound so bad.

 

[Mike Kunte]

On a general note, regarding the removal of almost all types of line, it's recommended that lines be "pushed" off their pipes from the "end" (especially if the pipes are "barbed"), instead of being "pulled" from the middle or other "end". No matter how hard you pull, the lines are designed to "bite in", and you're simply risking damaging the line (if you're planning to reuse it). Once you try "pushing" the line off its barb, you will be amazed at how easily it pops off, since it's lumen "swells" slightly during this compression.

My 2c....

Mike