Stihl bars

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I've noticed the old Homelite hardnose bars (no sprocket) are very rounded over the length of the whole bar. Current STIHL hardnose bars are similar. I would guess this optimizes the chain path and cuts wood faster, as years back material was affordable and productivity was a major focus.

Modern Oregon bars are flat along the length, I assume to reduce production costs as making the bars flatter (and therefore narrower overall) allows more bars to be made from a sheet of material reducing production costs and selling price.

STHIL sprocket-nose bars are in the middle regarding shape, likely a balance between price and performance with consideration for longevity. I notice the chain comes off the sprocket differently than coming around the curve of a hardnose; with a sprocket the chain tends to hug the bar, with a hardnose it tends to fly around the corner and away from the bar. I would think that factors in, though don't have any basis to say one way or another. Weight is also a consideration now more than in the past, a few ounces of bar weight difference wasn't significant on a 35-pound saw, so a slightly thicker bar might be more useful for popping out face cuts. Someone like @Art Martin would likely have great information on this subject, God rest his soul.
 
Correct. Two different bars for two different saws and not interchangeable. Simple as that. Stihl wanted you to buy two different bars and two different chains. I guess they figured nobody would ever squawk about that. Rather myopic in my book.

I just stay away from 3005 mount saws as most are plastic POS. Except the little top handles and pole saws.

My Stihls are mostly all 3003 mount 026/026S--------056M/066.
 
There are other factors one might consider depending on need. An MS362, MS400, MS462, and MS500 will all buck a 22" diameter log with a 25" bar. A 28" bar will heat the nose sprocket less and the extra cutters will likely keep the chain sharper, longer, so the bar sprocket will last longer and the saw may cut faster for longer. For that matter a MS261 with skip chain can buck the log too--I wouldn't usually suggest it, but if that's the only saw a person owns and they almost never need to buck that large a tree...it's an option, and not the best option, and there are definitely methods for using a small bar that work on large logs, .

Personally, I'll buck the log with a MS881 and 25" bar, which seems foolish in concept. In practice though a full cut takes less than nine seconds, so I'm done working pretty much right after I start (at least as far as bucking that tree is concerned). Would I use the saw for limbing? NO.

Anyway, just a few thoughts on why one might match the bar to the job, and the chain to what the powerhead can pull. (And remember I do landscaping as a side job, so cutting trees isn't a daily thing, it's an occasional need and something I enjoy as a hobby)
I think we're saying the same thing. Obviously if you only have one saw but need to do a variety of tasks, you are going to need to switch bars and the outcome will be suboptimal. Either you put a long bar on a small saw and cause it extra stress or tire your body carrying a big saw the whole time.

I prefer to have lots of saws with bar lengths suited to their engine size. I change saws rather than bars. I also buck logs with an 088 and a 25 inch bar, sometimes it works really well. I think the exception to the rule could be a medium 60cc saw with a long lite bar for say standing bucking on the ground.
 
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