Stihl MS 260 oil pump--replacing with an adjustible oil pump from a MS 260 Pro

[giljack]

I have a Stihl MS 260 that I purchased in 2003. It is not the Stihl MS 260 Pro which has an adjustable chain oiler and a compression release. The oil pump is not oiling the chain very well and if I cut a limb that is greater than 6 inches in diameter the chain overheats. I took the clutch apart and dismantled the centrifugal parts to get to the small hose from the oil pump to the slot in the bar mount but could not figure how to remove the rest of the clutch from the flywheel. The hose did not seem to be the problem. I have two questions.

1. How do I remove the rest of the clutch to get to the oil pump?
2. Will the adjustible oil pump from a Stihl MS 260 Pro fit my Stihl MS 260 and if so where can I get one?

I have read somewhere that the MS 260 has a plastic pump that wears out quickly.

giljack (Stihl 051 AVE (2), MS 260, 011)

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

if you change the oiler i think you have to change the clutch drum? not sure but someone else will be along with a better answer soon.

 

[rxe]

The clutch just unscrews.

1) Remove the e-clip, washer and drum.
2) Stuff the cylinder with rope or use a piston stop and unscrew the clutch - remember it is a left hand thread.
3) The oil pump us below, held on by two T27 bolts.
4) There is a drag "thing" that drives it from the clutch, this may be broken.

A 260 standard oil pump will handle 16" chain buried in the wood with no problems at all.

 

[Aaron441]

Before you tear it too far apart, make sure the little wire that comes off the oil pump driver is in the notch on the sprocket drum. That it what makes it oil. I saw one once where somebody jammed the sprocket on without paying attention and didn't get the wire in the notch.

 

[splitpost]

Before you tear it too far apart, make sure the little wire that comes off the oil pump driver is in the notch on the sprocket drum. That it what makes it oil. I saw one once where somebody jammed the sprocket on without paying attention and didn't get the wire in the notch.

the non pro oiler does not have that

Before you go tearing this thing apart empty the oil tank and give it a clean remove and clean the filter on the pick up and then run some oilmix with diesel or kero to give the system a good flush, it might just be gunked up

 

[super3]

the non pro oiler does not have that

Before you go tearing this thing apart empty the oil tank and give it a clean remove and clean the filter on the pick up and then run some oilmix with diesel or kero to give the system a good flush, it might just be gunked up

Ya, what he said.

 

[giljack]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. When I took the clutch off, I had read there supposedly there was something that fit in a notch on the clutch drum but I did not find any notch or wire or thing. I did empty the oil and filled the oil tank with some premixed gas and ran it for a while and when I put oil back in the tank it seemed to oil a little better but did not oil any better when I tested it on an oak log. I was getting ready to go tear it back down when I got the post that the MS 260 does not have the wire like the MS 260 Pro. Thanks! Splitpost. Thanks RXE for the tip to use rope in the spark plug hole to lock the piston to remove the clutch to get at the oil pump and expecially the tip that it has lefthand threads!
Does anyone know whether the oil pump with the adjustable feature from the MS 260 Pro will fit the MS 260? I seem to remember that I read that online somewhere.
I just purchased a Stihl 051 AVE from Craigslist for $75.00. It runs but did not have an aircleaner, the muffler was wired on and the chain, although somewhat new was dull as could be and the spark plug was loose (explaining why it was easy to pull over and why it died out at high RPM's when cutting). I plan to use it for parts.
giljack (Stihl 051 AVE (2), MS 260 and 011)

 

[blsnelling]

Yes you can install the adjustable pump. The one you have does not have the worm gear with the wire driven by the clutch drum. That the only real advantage of the adjustable oiler. It only pumps when the clutch is engaged. The one you have turns all the time, since it's not driven by the clutch drum. You will need, at a minimum:

1. Adjustable Oil Pump - 1121 640 3205
2. Washer - 0000 958 0407
3. Worm - 1121 640 7110
4. Ring - 0000 993 0508

I'm not sure if you need a new drum or not. Does your have a little notch in the outer edge? If not, you'll also need rim sprocket kit 1121 007 1037.

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

nevermind

 

[giljack]

Yes you can install the adjustable pump. The one you have does not have the worm gear with the wire driven by the clutch drum. That the only real advantage of the adjustable oiler. It only pumps when the clutch is engaged. The one you have turns all the time, since it's not driven by the clutch drum. You will need, at a minimum:

1. Adjustable Oil Pump - 1121 640 3205
2. Washer - 0000 958 0407
3. Worm - 1121 640 7110
4. Ring - 0000 993 0508

I'm not sure if you need a new drum or not. Does your have a little notch in the outer edge? If not, you'll also need rim sprocket kit 1121 007 1037.

Thanks! Can I just cut a notch in the drum? I have a picture of how it looks and could duplicate it pretty easily.
giljack (Stihl 051 AVE (2), MS 260 and 011)

 

[blsnelling]

Can I just cut a notch in the drum? I have a picture of how it looks and could duplicate it pretty easily.

That I don't know. You would have to mock it up and see.

 

[giljack]

Thanks to all who replied. I ordered an oil pump conversion kit for a MS260 on line and followed the directions and put a piece of old starter rope in the spark plug hole and removed the clutch. I removed the old plastic oil pump and it indeed was worn out and when you turned the worm gear it did not turn the shaft of the oil pump.
I added all of the parts that came with the kit which included a bushing and a new clutch drum with a notch and put the saw back together. I started cutting with it and it quit running at full throttle and would just idle and then died out. I worked on it and cranked on it over the next 3 days.
The old refrain from my foreign car mechanic days that we bandied around the shop that the customer would say when we couldn't't get their car fixed of "But it ran when I brought it here" came rushing to my mind. I thought well, it must have been something that I did because it indeed did run before I worked on it and it does not run now. I tore it back down and checked on what I had done nothing apparently affected the gas, fire or compression. In the back of my mind was the rope that I had put in the spark plug hole. I had watched a video that I found on line and put the amount of rope in the spark plug hole that I saw the guy use in the video.
I decided that it must have been a coincidence and I fell back on my mechanic training and said it needs spark at the correct timing, fuel and compression. I pulled the spark plug out and checked for spark and had spark, I had a new plug and installed it. I took off the air cleaner and sprayed gas and "sea foam" into the carburetor and it still would not start. (That should have been a clue). I took a compression check (115 lbs). I saw that the spark plug wire was crimped by a metal holder and took off the metal holder and it still wouldn't start. I put electrical tape around the spark plug wire and around the metal holder and that didn't fix it. I took out the gas pickup in the gas tank (tip next time start out with a small diameter wire with a loop around the bottom of the pickup) and blew air through it.
I got my manual and ran through the troubleshooting chart and had already done most of them. I saw in the entry that said if the engine has lost power to check to see if the spark arrester screen in the muffler was clogged. I removed the screw that held the screen in place and tried to remove the screen and pried on it and tried loosening it with a screw driver and hammer and it would not come out. It seemed to be glued in. I took off the cover to the muffler and found the culprit. An inch piece of nylon rope was melted to the muffler cover. I had to take a chisel and hammer to loosen it. The rope had tried to go through the only outlet hole in the muffler and had melted and clogged the hole up and melted to the spark arrester screen completely clogging the muffler producing so much back pressure that the engine would only hit a couple of times but would not start. I pried the melted nylon from the outlet hole and pried the spark arrester screen out with some difficulty. There was a big glob of melted nylon clogging the screen. I made a new one (until I can buy one) and put the saw back together and it ran and oiled great!
Has anyone ever heard of the rope that you put in the spark plug hole being cut off and spit out into the muffler clogging it and the spark arrester screen?
giljack (Stihl 051 AVE (2), MS 260 (with MS 260 Pro oil pump) and 011)

 

[chopperfreak2k1]

i have read several threads that mention this. well not exactly what happened to you but about being careful using rope as a piston stop. glad you got it figured out and fixed up.