Stihl quality = bad

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When I'm considering a saw one of the first things I like to look at is the IPL - how it is designed and put together is far more important than the name on the side.

Yep; and with that we remember which Brand it is, and relate that to our friends, and it doesn't take long before people everywhere are promoting that Brand.
 
You may not mind being told what to buy. The average customer does.

I wish the salesman had given me his opinion when I bought my first saw. I knew nothing.

Better yet, I wish I had found arboristsite.com before I bought.

What a wealth of information and members that are willing to share their years of experience.

I know now, "Ask here and you shall receive"

Thanks to all..........!
 
You may not mind being told what to buy. The average customer does.

My only quibble with your statement about dictatorship was that it was incorrect. Almost all customers mind being told what to buy, including me. That doesn't prove your point that pushing product makes a salesman a dictator.

We're conversing in English, and using logic in our thought processes. You might want to learn a little bit more about the language and about logic and cause/effect. On the other hand, the way you use the language and logic would make you a smashing politician's speech/copy writer.
 
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My only quibble with your statement about dictatorship was that it was incorrect. Almost all customers mind being told what to buy, including me. That doesn't prove your point that pushing product makes a salesman a dictator.

We're conversing in English, and using logic in our thought processes. You might want to learn a little bit more about the language and about logic and cause/effect. On the other hand, the way you use the language and logic would make you a smashing politician's speech/copy writer.

You "might want to familiarize yourself" with what you are bashing. Particularly the use of hyperbole to make a point. My point is solid and remains.
 
You "might want to familiarize yourself" with what you are bashing. Particularly the use of hyperbole to make a point. My point is solid and remains.

Yes, I caught the hyperbole. Missing your heavy handed hyperbole would be like sleeping through Minnesota's first hurricane. As simply a personal quirk, I find such hyperbole repugnant in the setting you used. No big deal in the chainsaw world.

Hey, let me know when you find a salesman who actually is a dictator. I'd like to meet him or her and hear them say: "Buy the MS290 or off with your head, peasant!" :)
 
Oiling

Ok so one other thing to note is the oiling or there lack of..... The saw is using one tank of fuel to half a tank of oil...seems very light.
Shouldn't it be 1 for 1?
In fact I touched the bar after a good run and its very hot to the touch ..."not good" IMO.
I can see the bar wearing out way early on this not to mention the chain. Why have they done this? Environment standards?

Yes all bar holes/ports are clear. Using STIHL bar oil.

Should I dilute the oil a bit so its more fluid? Would this make it better?
I read some of you have changed over your oilers for higher capacity.

It hasn't leaked from the underneath hose yet...I guess that's positive...lol :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Ok so one other thing to note is the oiling or there lack of..... The saw is using one tank of fuel to half a tank of oil...seems very light.
Shouldn't it be 1 for 1?
In fact I touched the bar after a good run and its very hot to the touch ..."not good" IMO.
I can see the bar wearing out way early on this not to mention the chain. Why have they done this? Environment standards?

Yes all bar holes/ports are clear. Using STIHL bar oil.

Should I dilute the oil a bit so its more fluid? Would this make it better?
I read some of you have changed over your oilers for higher capacity.

It hasn't leaked from the underneath hose yet...I guess that's positive...lol :hmm3grin2orange:

No

Bar, chain and power head are designed to work together. You only need to lubricate the rivets/holes, sliding faces of chain/bar, sprocket tip, and output enough oil to make it back to the drive sprocket. Any excess you see slinging off is throwing money down the drain.

Do not dilute B&C oil unless the weather is cold and the oil isn't flowing.

Higher volume oil pumps are needed in specific applications (i.e. long bar)
 
Put your bar over a piece of wood or even paper and run it at WOT for a few seconds and if you see a fine mist on it your oiler is working ok.
 
What are you doing to that poor tree????

I am a tree whisperer... I am nicely telling it to fall over.

Does it need any oil?

Why yes... yes it does Rexy! :laugh:

Really! My favorite is my Sachs Dolmar 116si. My MS290 is one of my favorites as well as my 031AV. I don't like my Wild Thing too much because of the lack of anti vibe.

I have to confess... I don't even own an MS290. ;)

Ok so one other thing to note is the oiling or there lack of..... The saw is using one tank of fuel to half a tank of oil...seems very light.
Shouldn't it be 1 for 1?
In fact I touched the bar after a good run and its very hot to the touch ..."not good" IMO.
I can see the bar wearing out way early on this not to mention the chain. Why have they done this? Environment standards?

Yes all bar holes/ports are clear. Using STIHL bar oil.

Should I dilute the oil a bit so its more fluid? Would this make it better?
I read some of you have changed over your oilers for higher capacity.

It hasn't leaked from the underneath hose yet...I guess that's positive...lol :hmm3grin2orange:

Gone are the days of new saws slinging oil off the bar ends when you turn the oiler to max output. The engineers have made a lot of progress in the way of oiling bars and chains. They have determined that it doesn't take near as much oil as they thought in the past. But our way of thinking is more oil is better... so it takes a while to get used to only usin' 1/2 a tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel in newer saws.

Gary
 
No

Bar, chain and power head are designed to work together. You only need to lubricate the rivets/holes, sliding faces of chain/bar, sprocket tip, and output enough oil to make it back to the drive sprocket. Any excess you see slinging off is throwing money down the drain.

Do not dilute B&C oil unless the weather is cold and the oil isn't flowing.

Higher volume oil pumps are needed in specific applications (i.e. long bar)

Ok dokie. Thanking you!
 
I am a tree whisperer... I am nicely telling it to fall over.



Why yes... yes it does Rexy! :laugh:



I have to confess... I don't even own an MS290. ;)



Gone are the days of new saws slinging oil off the bar ends when you turn the oiler to max output. The engineers have made a lot of progress in the way of oiling bars and chains. They have determined that it doesn't take near as much oil as they thought in the past. But our way of thinking is more oil is better... so it takes a while to get used to only usin' 1/2 a tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel in newer saws.

Gary

Thanks again!
 

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