Stove cement?

[unclemoustache]

Howdy,

When I reinstalled my Charter Oak stove in my new shop, I put some stove cement (in a caulk tube) on the gaps and joints, and followed all directions. It's all burned off now. One would think "High-Temp Stove Cement" would last a bit longer than a month. Anyway, I'm in need of a recommendation to fill those gaps again. What do you use?

 

[Stihl310]

I gave up on stove cement and now use the high temp silicone for holding in door seals.... Can't remember the technical name, it's the orange stuff that you dont want to get on ya...

Depending upon the aesthetics, it may or may not fit your needs. I use it on my owb anytime I replace door seals. It works great.

 

[Kapriel]

What brand of chaulking was it ? And was it red in color. I think that will go to 500-550 degrees F

Can you use refractory cement or does it have to be a chaulking compound ?

Kap

 

[logbutcher]

Three kinds of "stove cement" you're talking about.

1. "Furnace Cement" used for filling joints between cast iron plates and seams. It hardens and will fall out if not contained in the joint. Not for gaskets. Not an adhesive.

2. Black 'gooey' "Gasket Stove Cement" ( aka "water glass") for door and pipe-to-stove ( or furnace) joints and seams. It is a PITA: dries too fast, sticks to skin, holds worth a @%$# for gaskets in moving parts like doors.

3. The clear, thicker "Gasket Cement" that seems for me at least, to hold better than #2.

I've never had any luck using hi temp silicone. It's not an adhesive.

Ideas, comments, experience welcome.

 

[Kapriel]

I'm not sure but best guess is you might have used the wrong sealant/adhesive for the job.

I have my Boilers license and there's just about a product for everything.

Can you post a pic ?

 

[unclemoustache]

I'm not sure but best guess is you might have used the wrong sealant/adhesive for the job.

I have my Boilers license and there's just about a product for everything.

Can you post a pic ?

I knew somebody was going to ask for that! I'll try and snap some tomorrow. It's not going to be pretty if I try and describe it. My descriptive skills will make you think I'm trying to glue my ice cream to my cat or something like that.
They say a pic is worth a thousand words, but it my case a couple mil wouldn't be enough.

 

[1project2many]

My descriptive skills will make you think I'm trying to glue my ice cream to my cat or something like that.

Well, it's always much easier if you get the ice cream to stay in a cube on the floor then apply the adhesive to the cat. But by gads don't let the cat get free. You'll have adhesive on every wall of the house and children stuck in the doorways.

Actually, I have a package with a replacement stove gasket and some adhesive to go with it. I can dig it out tomorrow if you haven't found anything by then.

 

[7hpjim]

I was thinking about using header wrap for the pipe joints between the furnace and the flue.

 

[1project2many]

Header wrap is not a seal. It's designed to keep heat in the exhaust. It also absorbs moisture when cool. Wrapped headers rust out faster than non wrapped counterparts.

 

[Dale]

I'm curious to hear some options on this too. I use the Black high temp. caulk that Lowe's sells. Problem with it, as mentioned, is it turns brittle and falls out, ESPECIALLY when I remove the single wall Black pipe from stove to wall thimble for cleaning.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

...on my old VC Sequoia...

I tried the gasket cement that comes in the tub (it's for assembling bolt together stoves)
-worked okay on the top of the top plate
-got brittle and fell off the vertical seams
-will use it again if I disassemble the stove this spring...but IN the seams

had better luck with HI TEMP GASKET MAKER (orange stuff in small tube)
-this seems to be working on the vertical seams
-haven't found it in "caulk tube" length

 

[unclemoustache]

Here are the stove pics. I decided not to embed. Two pics show the leak at the stove joint, one shows a gap between to parts of the stove itself, and one shows some areas where the stove has worn through.





View attachment 222502View attachment 222503View attachment 222504View attachment 222505

 

[Kapriel]

My My

Well I see why your having so much trouble trying to seal this.

A sealant or adhesive is not the answer wrong product for the job.

The temps can achieve over 600 degrees F.

Short of buying a new stove, the only way you can seal cracks and openings of this size is with some sort of refractory cement. The problem with that is they have their limitations.

If you decide to keep the stove a welder that is good with cast iron welding might be able to help.

Cast iron is very brittle and can crack easily. Cauling is out you might be able to use a hi temp packing like teflon and tamp it into place.

Short of replacing the stove, any repairs are iffy ...:msp_wink:

 

[Misfit138]

..If you decide to keep the stove a welder that is good with cast iron welding might be able to help.

Cast iron is very brittle and can crack easily. Cauling is out you might be able to use a hi temp packing like teflon and tamp it into place.

Short of replacing the stove, any repairs are iffy ...:msp_wink:

I agree. A good welder could give it a go. I have a friend who I trust with iron welds, but he's not anywhere near you.
See if you can find a good local welder who is not intimidated by cast iron.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Well I see why your having so much trouble trying to seal this.

A sealant or adhesive is not the answer wrong product for the job.

The temps can achieve over 600 degrees F.

Short of buying a new stove, the only way you can seal cracks and openings of this size is with some sort of refractory cement. The problem with that is they have their limitations.

If you decide to keep the stove a welder that is good with cast iron welding might be able to help.

Cast iron is very brittle and can crack easily. Cauling is out you might be able to use a hi temp packing like teflon and tamp it into place.

Short of replacing the stove, any repairs are iffy ...:msp_wink:

Try some Pyroseal, good refractory cement, available thru HVAC wholesalers, but those cracks will expand/contract with heat.

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hello,
Not to give a smart answer, but that is why I don't own a cast iron stove !!!!!!!! Welded steel all the way !!!!!!!




Henry and Wanda

 

[Hank Chinaski]

Sure you didn't grab the caulking gun that was labeled "Moustache Wax"?

* IMHO Josh, I'd have to go w/the welder too. There's only one way to fix broken stuff: The right way.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

might find a good cast welder at a transmission shop...look for the old guy

or the old guy can point you to one...sometimes people snap tranny mounting ears off (cuz' they don't use a pilot shaft)

cheers!

 

[Kapriel]

Something to think about....

I do a lot of cast iron welding myself.

Usually broken machinery and I always ask myself this question.

Why did the part break and will my weld be as strong or stronger than the original casting.

I guess what I'm trying to say there's a reason why your stove is cracked or broken in several places.

I don't have the answer for that maybe bad castings, maybe poor design, overfiring.

I'm not so sure I would run to the welder so fast. The "Pyroseal" might work fine,
but will not prevent further cracking or new cracks to form.

 

[Vibes]

Call the manufacturer and see if you can order panels for your stove. Otherwise I'm gonna say that stove is toast. If you're burning fall off from hardwood flooring, I'm gonna say your burning that stove way too hot. That stuff is like pure kindling.