mikereynolds
ArboristSite Operative
I was looking at the Super Split website and noticed a new model called the "Special Edition: with 100 lb flywheels and 9hp motor. Has anybody bought one yet and are there any reviews?
Super split "special edition"
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I don't know if any but I wonder if this would handle 24" wood?
Aren't people putting bigger flywheels on them already?
Not sure why they bother, as ones like my HD with a 1.5 electric motor run beautifully through all sizes and types of wood.
Four? years now of commercial use and I have only had to replace one roller bearing and that was because I split in the snow and didn't lube the machine before I put it away. Great product, great customer service.
Mac88
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds like spam alert...
What type and sizes of wood rounds are you splitting? I've got the standard SS but with the 1.5hp motor instead of the 1hp.
I'm not getting the same results as you, sure it blows thru black walnut and most ash, but put some red elm and I'm having to hit some of it 3,4 even 5 times, usually blowing a breaker in-between. These are fairly straight red elm rounds, 12-16" typically. Only using a 25ft extension cord, heavy duty 12ga.
American Elm the same size - forget about it....unless it's sat in the round for quite a while and has started to punk out abit.
The red elm splits the best when fresh cut, becomes difficult if it sits in the round even for a month or two.
Oh and I'm not using a generator like I mentioned in a previous post - good old garage AC wall outlet.
I'm not getting the same results as you, sure it blows thru black walnut and most ash, but put some red elm and I'm having to hit some of it 3,4 even 5 times, usually blowing a breaker in-between. These are fairly straight red elm rounds, 12-16" typically. Only using a 25ft extension cord, heavy duty 12ga.
American Elm the same size - forget about it....unless it's sat in the round for quite a while and has started to punk out abit.
The red elm splits the best when fresh cut, becomes difficult if it sits in the round even for a month or two.
Oh and I'm not using a generator like I mentioned in a previous post - good old garage AC wall outlet.
Not sure why they bother, as ones like my HD with a 1.5 electric motor run beautifully through all sizes and types of wood.
Four? years now of commercial use and I have only had to replace one roller bearing and that was because I split in the snow and didn't lube the machine before I put it away. Great product, great customer service.
Bucko
ArboristSite Operative
I like my J model. It does everything we throw at it.
mikereynolds
ArboristSite Operative
I'm in Southern California and we split Pine, Elm, Red Oak, Eucaliptus, Avodado and Citrus.
I currently have a DR Rapid Fire and it has trouble splitting the Pine especially when it's green, Nearly impossible to split the Eucaliptus and very difficult to split the oak. The ram (rack pusher) constantly gets stuck in the rounds and I have to shut the motor down, get a prybar to free it to make it retract for another hit and try to split it again. Like you said sometimes, it takes several hits to split the round. If it only worked like the You Tube video I'd be as happy as I expected to be. I feel it just doesn't give evough splitting force to get the job done for my environment. As for rounds diameter, I split everything that can be lifted by hand. The big stuff, I would normally use my virtical hydraulic monster or Bobcat splitter to half or quarter. Now, the I get too frusterated usinf the rapid fire, it just sits there collecting dust.
This is why I am looking for a unit with the heaviest flywheel available to give more thrust and a stronger hit without jamming all the time.
sunfish
Fish Head
I have the standard J model SS and it has split everything I've cut. 15-20 cords a year. Mostly oak, but a bunch of dead red elm last winter. Some of the gnarly elm took more than one hit, but I split 6-8 cords with little trouble.
I did upgrade to the heavy duty 3 bearing deal on the the rack engagement, as I blew out the single bearing. Paul was a big help and got the parts to me very quick.
I believe the 4.5 hp gas motor will power through tough splits much better than a electric motor.
Also, sharpening the wedge for the stringy stuff is a huge help.
After 2+ years with the Super Split, I'd buy another right now, if needed... :msp_smile:
I did upgrade to the heavy duty 3 bearing deal on the the rack engagement, as I blew out the single bearing. Paul was a big help and got the parts to me very quick.
I believe the 4.5 hp gas motor will power through tough splits much better than a electric motor.
Also, sharpening the wedge for the stringy stuff is a huge help.
After 2+ years with the Super Split, I'd buy another right now, if needed... :msp_smile:
Sharpening the wedge is the first thing I did when I received it. It does help.
When I ordered the unit Paul recommended the gas motor and buy the electric motor on my own.. I wonder now if this is why, the gas powered unit works better? At the time I wanted electric and still do- this gets used inside my garage about 50% of the time.
Don't get me wrong when I have the "right" rounds the SS works awesome, but the one's that don't make it miserable when the breaker is tripping after a few hits.. the stuff that is problematic is no issue on my 27t hydraulic... just slow.
When I ordered the unit Paul recommended the gas motor and buy the electric motor on my own.. I wonder now if this is why, the gas powered unit works better? At the time I wanted electric and still do- this gets used inside my garage about 50% of the time.
Don't get me wrong when I have the "right" rounds the SS works awesome, but the one's that don't make it miserable when the breaker is tripping after a few hits.. the stuff that is problematic is no issue on my 27t hydraulic... just slow.
sunfish
Fish Head
The gas motor will usually push the bad piece on through, where the electric motor just stalls.
Flipping breakers usually means too long of cord and/or too small gauge wire. Which can rob power from the motor.
Mine handles elem just fine, w/4.5 hp gas. So I'd think your electric motor is holding you back with the elm.
Did more splitting over the weekend. Friday I cut down two smallish ash and two medium sized siberian elm. Split the same day with the SS and it went through these very green splits like butter - no or almost no stalls and no tripped breakers. The same wood that I've left in rounds for a couple months are not as easy so this is my new process.. split the green stuff right away.... everything that is except for american elm.. that I need to experiment with a bit more.
sunfish
Fish Head
Elem is nasty stuff! I usually just avoid it, with all the oak we have around here.
Sounds like you're figuring it out though.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Putting on my super amateur electrician's cape...I have two questions for two people:
3fordasho:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What is the amperage of the circuit it's in?
MNGuns:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What's the amperage of the circuit it's in?
I have a suspicion, but I need to remember to be Sherlock Holmes and ask the questions first and then see where they lead
3fordasho:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What is the amperage of the circuit it's in?
MNGuns:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What's the amperage of the circuit it's in?
I have a suspicion, but I need to remember to be Sherlock Holmes and ask the questions first and then see where they lead
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
1.5hp is always going to be 1.5hp regardless of whether it's on a 240 or 120v circuit. The only difference is that your amperage for the 240v version will be half that of the 120v, and as such needs smaller wires to deliver the same amount of power.
Distance to the panel is a more appropriate question, and diameter of electrical conductors in that path is also an important factor.
15A circuits are only required to have 14ga wiring, where 20A circuits have 12ga. With a heavy use application like a splitter, you should be running off a 20A circuit, and using a 12ga extension cord (if using one), that's only as long as needed to reach. Doing this makes a big difference in voltage drop, and your motor will run cooler.
Distance to the panel is a more appropriate question, and diameter of electrical conductors in that path is also an important factor.
15A circuits are only required to have 14ga wiring, where 20A circuits have 12ga. With a heavy use application like a splitter, you should be running off a 20A circuit, and using a 12ga extension cord (if using one), that's only as long as needed to reach. Doing this makes a big difference in voltage drop, and your motor will run cooler.
120v circuit - 15amp breaker with 14 guage wire to the outlet but only a few feet from the breaker box. Yes I know it should be a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire. The extension cord is 25ft 12 guage. One of my next steps is to rewire the motor for 240v.
Putting on my super amateur electrician's cape...I have two questions for two people:
3fordasho:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What is the amperage of the circuit it's in?
MNGuns:
1) What voltage is your 1.5HP motor?
2) What's the amperage of the circuit it's in?
I have a suspicion, but I need to remember to be Sherlock Holmes and ask the questions first and then see where they lead
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, there's your problem.
Extension cord doesn't matter, you're downstream of your restriction that's causing a voltage drop -- the breaker and wiring.
What's the nameplate on the motor list for the Amperage? The generic charts say a 1-1/2HP motor is 20A.
The other piece of the puzzle that I don't know how to figure out is what it's actual continuous load is when someone is splitting wood, and I'm not sure it could be accurately measured in your current situation since we know the breaker and wiring are undersized already.
The reason that is important to know is the circuit breakers you'll find in a home or most commercial applications should only be run at 80% of the rated capacity of the breaker. They're allowed under code to be run at 100% for a maximum of 3 hours continuously. A 20A breaker should only handle a 16A load for more then three hours.
As you overheat the breaker from frequent use at 100% without giving it time to cool off in between, it'll start to trip below the rated capacity (say around 85-90% of rating).
Verified my wiring and breaker sizes. Forgot that I put all 12 Guage wiring and 20 amp breakers in the newer garage where I am running the SS. So nevermind on the 15 amp circuits. They are in the older garage.
Split some more partially dry siberian and red elm rounds tonight - split the entire load except for two nasty looking rounds, used hydraulic for those. Still ended up tripping the breaker 4-5 times with the SS.
The motor plate on the SS lists full load amps at 15.2. A stalled electric motor can draw 2-3 times that or more. I wonder why SS does not use a clutch on the electric like they do with the gas motor? Seems like it could use it.
Split some more partially dry siberian and red elm rounds tonight - split the entire load except for two nasty looking rounds, used hydraulic for those. Still ended up tripping the breaker 4-5 times with the SS.
The motor plate on the SS lists full load amps at 15.2. A stalled electric motor can draw 2-3 times that or more. I wonder why SS does not use a clutch on the electric like they do with the gas motor? Seems like it could use it.
