The hickory last winter required the ram to go full length to the stop and it still wouldn't break, had to use a hatchet. In my book that is stringy.
Does a SS go all the way to the stop? I haven't used one.
Super Split vs Timberwolf TW5
- Thread starter Sawyer Rob
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The hickory last winter required the ram to go full length to the stop and it still wouldn't break, had to use a hatchet. In my book that is stringy.
Does a SS go all the way to the stop? I haven't used one.
sunfish
Fish Head
Not all the way, but real close. I think the speed helps pop that last bit. I've never had to use a hatchet with the SS.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't know about that! I split this pile with my TimberWolf,
and I didn't use even one drop of gas!! lol
SR
sunfish
Fish Head
Glad that's working for ya. I'll stick with what works here. lolI don't know about that! I split this pile with my TimberWolf,
and I didn't use even one drop of gas!! lol
SR
lknchoppers
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I would lean to the TW5 with the log lift and four or 6 way adjustable wedge.
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How would the SS fair against a hydro with a lot of our pitchy 24 + inch West Coast Doug Fir having 4 -6 inch knots?
reddogrunner
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think it's a fair comparison. You would need to setup a challenge for units with similar price points. Those 2 are definitely not the same price points. Both are awfully nice machines, but I don't see how you can compare the two objectively.
I've got an older hydro to take care of the heavy pieces. Most of my pieces are loaded in a trailer and get split when unloaded at the house. My DR does everything else. It is getting some maintenance and modifications done to help me. There is a place for both of them.
Shea
Shea
reddogrunner
ArboristSite Operative
Agreed. I just don't see how you can do a level comparison because there are SO MANY variations from one hydro to the next. I will keep my hydro and I am eyeballing one of the Woods centrifugal splitters for next spring.
Not well. SS is an East Coast machine. Different dialect completely.
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Thanks, I was kinda thinking that was the case.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
The each have their +'s and -'s. Pros & cons. Maybe even made for varying situations/conditions.
It is only logical then that the only real solution to the debate, is to have one of each.
It is only logical then that the only real solution to the debate, is to have one of each.
I've always had a couple questions...what's the going $ for a SS-HD?
And how durable is the SS, they look small and spindly ...the rack , drive gear and guides don't look like they could take much abuse?
And how durable is the SS, they look small and spindly ...the rack , drive gear and guides don't look like they could take much abuse?
$3400 with the table, Honda and shipping to local terminal. Price may vary based on shipping.... I have an invoice sitting in my inbox but I haven't been able to bring myself to follow through...
The Subaru is a fine engine. No need to pay more for the Honda. You'll mow through those trees you have to clear out for the construction and wonder why you never bought the splitter earlier. When, if ever, you run out of wood or motivation and want to sell it, that splitter will hold its value remarkably well.
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I have a Subaru engine on my pressure washer and it always starts on second pull after sitting for a year and the first half a turn after that. Way better than any Briggs or Techumsa I've ever had, and I've had a bunch over the last 41 years I've been running stuff. It's even better starting than the Kawasaki engine in my mower. Never ran a Honda so cannot compare to those.
It's official , both the TW and the SS are way out of my price range.
The SS does look crazy fast and would fly through the Ash I've been burning the last couple years .. but I could never justify the money ether of these splitters cost for 10-12 cord of wood I work-up each year. I'm also pretty sure SS isn't marketing this unit to me.
Neither one for me , like mention, to much money for the amount of wood used . I am sure there both great machine . The splitter speed is not the problem for slow production , the 16 gallon pump an harbor fright engine an 4 way will move fast . Getting the wood on and out of the way is what to work on .
Don't be fooled into thinking you have to spend a lot of money or get the latest tool to split ten cords of wood each year efficiently.
The most important tool you have is hopefully your brain. The second most is likely your back. Don't abuse it, because it doesn't heal well is at all. For thirty years I did the same type of wood with this splitter as my SSHD or TW-6. You just do it a little different, for a lot less money. Work out a system. The large rounds below were cut three to four inches deep and popped with a maul and wedge. Nasty stuff got noodled all the way through, sometimes quartered. Get a peavy, a pulp hook, a hook-a-roon, old two handled ice tongues, etc., anything to protect your back and make it easier. It is a process. A big dollar splitter may not be what you need. I bought three twenty cord loads of 8' Oak and used this '70s SpeeCo. Then, over time, I bought a used forklift, and a used conveyor. The splitters I use now came way down the line. This splitter here in the photo has a good working height; beautiful, efficient wedge design; stroke reducing collars on the rod; a detent valve; GX200 Honda; and work table for resplitting; and unlike the popular vertical/horizontal design, the tires/wheels are out of the operators way. (Horizontal/vertical splitter: Horizontal mode: The operator should stand comfortably next to the beam, but you can't because some big city idiot designers that doesn't know what a tree looks like put a tire, engine, or hydraulic filter where your legs should be. Just lean over a little, what's the big deal. In vertical mode the operator is bent over or on his knees, torquing his back to get a large round in place, and sucking exhaust fumes to boot.) The splitter below is a work horse, and all there for very little money. If you can find some fool, like me, selling a splitter like this jump on it. Don't be fooled by some box store splitter with shinny paint. Your just going to drop a large round on their well placed engine and hydraulic filter the second time you use it anyway.
The most important tool you have is hopefully your brain. The second most is likely your back. Don't abuse it, because it doesn't heal well is at all. For thirty years I did the same type of wood with this splitter as my SSHD or TW-6. You just do it a little different, for a lot less money. Work out a system. The large rounds below were cut three to four inches deep and popped with a maul and wedge. Nasty stuff got noodled all the way through, sometimes quartered. Get a peavy, a pulp hook, a hook-a-roon, old two handled ice tongues, etc., anything to protect your back and make it easier. It is a process. A big dollar splitter may not be what you need. I bought three twenty cord loads of 8' Oak and used this '70s SpeeCo. Then, over time, I bought a used forklift, and a used conveyor. The splitters I use now came way down the line. This splitter here in the photo has a good working height; beautiful, efficient wedge design; stroke reducing collars on the rod; a detent valve; GX200 Honda; and work table for resplitting; and unlike the popular vertical/horizontal design, the tires/wheels are out of the operators way. (Horizontal/vertical splitter: Horizontal mode: The operator should stand comfortably next to the beam, but you can't because some big city idiot designers that doesn't know what a tree looks like put a tire, engine, or hydraulic filter where your legs should be. Just lean over a little, what's the big deal. In vertical mode the operator is bent over or on his knees, torquing his back to get a large round in place, and sucking exhaust fumes to boot.) The splitter below is a work horse, and all there for very little money. If you can find some fool, like me, selling a splitter like this jump on it. Don't be fooled by some box store splitter with shinny paint. Your just going to drop a large round on their well placed engine and hydraulic filter the second time you use it anyway.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
My Surge Master (Wallenstein) h/v splitter seems to be laid out very well. I think they got it right. Using horizontal, I can stand on either side & work the central lever equally well. It's made for towing so has signal lights & fenders, but even then I can still stand there without the wheels or that stuff being in the way - and if I need a place to set half a round down for a moment, the fenders make a good shelf, right there beside my leg.
The engine is up front out of the way. Vertical is easy when I need it. Compact & easy to park in tight spaces with the ATV, and I can move it around by hand.
It was used when I got it, and after using it a bit I think it had split a lot of wood before I got my hands on it - could notice wear spots I didn't notice when I got it. But it still works like a top. I bubble gummed up a small table that hangs off the beam & can go on either side, and slides off/on in a second. I still want to re-arrange the hose routing some, think the other guy replaced a couple hoses and didn't get them quite right so they have a habit of tangling a little when I go vertical. But I would highly recommend one - for a lot less than a new one of the ones this thread was about.
Agreed completely about the brain & back comments above - and for me and where I'm at in life, a full-zoot hyper speed high dollar splitter would be wasted waiting for my brain & back to do their thing. A longer cycle time = body feeling better at the end of the day. Not that my splitter is real slow - just that if it was faster, I wouldn't be.
The engine is up front out of the way. Vertical is easy when I need it. Compact & easy to park in tight spaces with the ATV, and I can move it around by hand.
It was used when I got it, and after using it a bit I think it had split a lot of wood before I got my hands on it - could notice wear spots I didn't notice when I got it. But it still works like a top. I bubble gummed up a small table that hangs off the beam & can go on either side, and slides off/on in a second. I still want to re-arrange the hose routing some, think the other guy replaced a couple hoses and didn't get them quite right so they have a habit of tangling a little when I go vertical. But I would highly recommend one - for a lot less than a new one of the ones this thread was about.
Agreed completely about the brain & back comments above - and for me and where I'm at in life, a full-zoot hyper speed high dollar splitter would be wasted waiting for my brain & back to do their thing. A longer cycle time = body feeling better at the end of the day. Not that my splitter is real slow - just that if it was faster, I wouldn't be.
