Tank repair

[joesawer]

I just put in a piece of trimmer line, then insert the screw...

Do you cast the JB weld around the trimmer line then pull the trimmer line out?
I have drilled holes in JB weld and then tapped them. Kind of messy, but if you are careful it works OK on course threads.

 

[Lakeside53]

Nope.. just the trimmer line - no JB...


I've tapped JB may times. No problem once set up and drilled to the correct size. In your case, the screws are self tapping and that's why I use the trimmer line - it mashes against the existing hole side perfectly, and is nylon like the tank.

 

[joesawer]

Gotchya. Just use it as a shim to take up space.
Good Idea.

 

[Lakeside53]

you can also poke it in with hot soldering iron...

 

[RiverRat2]

The JB has a white and black apart, and is 50:50 because of the added metallic fillers. The 50:50 is convenient (easier to eyeball small quantities) - and they have it set so the two parts weigh the exact same amount for the same volume, so a postage scale gets you exact mixing. Like all true epoxies, exact proportion and good mixing is the key to strength and adhesion


Rumor around here.. the JB is batch "over-runs" from the suppliers to Boeing... I know some guys at Boeing that swear its the same stuff they use.

oh that makes me feel great!!!! the next time I fly on a Boeing aircraft I'm hoping it needed no epoxy!!!!! :jawdrop:

 

[Lakeside53]

Just drink... and ignore the flying toothpaste tube that contains you.


I survived 3 million frequent traveller miles... one destroyed engine over the pacific and emergency landing in Pago Pago.. one flame out over Wyoming, one engine failure on take off in Chicago (great...), a few missed approaches, handful of really hard "landings", a few "extreme turbulance" (keep your damn seat belt on at all times), smoke and burnt wiring smell for a couple of hours, and no doubt countless more than I ever knew about!

 

[RiverRat2]

JB weld and/or Brownell's Steelbed epoxies work great for saws. They may be the same, I'm not sure. I've been using the Brownell's product for over 30 years for stock bedding and other related firearms repairs. I find that both are also great for fabricating broken off mounting tabs/ears on saws whether it be on a case, housing, tank or what ever. I reconstruct the broken part by first forming a re-enforcement structure out of stiff wire attached back to the the point where it has broken off. I then make a mold out of modeling clay for the outside form. I fill it with the epoxy and let it set well. Afterwords I do the final shaping and use Bondo for the final top coat if the epoxy did not finish out properly. If the ear/tab does not have a through hole, but has internal threads, I epoxy in the proper sized nut with the re-bar type structure I mentioned above. By the time I sand, paint and finish you really can't tell. It is time consuming but one heck of a lot cheaper than finding obsolete parts that are more often than not in as good of condition as the ones you already have, except for the broken ear/tabs. Then again, if your life is as boring as mine, you may welcome the opportunity to mess with this much like I do. I've never had one of these repairs fail to date. The key is the re-enforcement structure and it's contact back to the saw.

Ok here goes,,, Last year My bull headed/handed brother boke the tab for the upper rear AV mount (starter side) clean off of the tank handle,,, it is a clean break right on the tank seam,,,, (doesn't leak) And I just figured it would be hard to get it to stick well enough to hold up to commercial 066 abuse!!!!

I stihl have the broken tab or should I build it completly out of epoxy

 

[BIGBORE577]

Ok here goes,,, Last year My bull headed/handed brother boke the tab for the upper rear AV mount (starter side) clean off of the tank handle,,, it is a clean break right on the tank seam,,,, (doesn't leak) And I just figured it would be hard to get it to stick well enough to hold up to commercial 066 abuse!!!!

I stihl have the broken tab or should I build it completly out of epoxy

I've found it far easier to make them up completely, this way the re-enforcement goes through the entire fabricated portion. However, I've done it both ways. The difficulty in using the old piece is getting it to bond securely enough to the saw. This gets increasingly more difficult when you are trying to attach a piece with a hole or threads through it. When re-attaching a broken piece it's best to mechanically re-attach it to the saw the best way you can and then use the epoxy as a re-enforcement. I've both pinned and used small self tapping screws well coated with epoxy to attach the piece. I then build a mold with the modeling clay like before but I make the piece being fabricated thicker on the side where the fastener head is and won't make a difference. I'll place pins into the sides of the existing piece on the side that is going to be wider before filling the mold with epoxy. This will give additional support along the entire side and you will hardly notice the additional thickness, you may in fact be the only one that ever does.

 

[Lakeside53]

Ok here goes,,, Last year My bull headed/handed brother boke the tab for the upper rear AV mount (starter side) clean off of the tank handle,,, it is a clean break right on the tank seam,,,, (doesn't leak) And I just figured it would be hard to get it to stick well enough to hold up to commercial 066 abuse!!!!

I stihl have the broken tab or should I build it completly out of epoxy

And I though that MULE pic was of your brother...

Plastic weld it back on, hot pin it, then JB...