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I heard one guy ported a chainsaw with only a bench grinder that had 10" wheels on it.
Now that takes some skill.
Now that takes some skill.
Well I could do it using a toothbrush, a deck screw, a rubber truck strap, and some orange peels! Oh and an angle grinder to set the squish!I heard one guy ported a chainsaw with only a bench grinder that had 10" wheels on it.
Now that takes some skill.
I just bought a Foredom for $130 off of a woodworking site. Played around with a junked 460 cylinder and then researched a little. Read the Jennings 2 stroke modification book. Played around on a junk 044 cylinder.
Mild porting for work saws is very doable. Especially if you are like me and have an extensive metal fabrication background.
Well I could do it using a toothbrush, a deck screw, a rubber truck strap, and some orange peels! Oh and an angle grinder to set the squish!
Well ya! Ya gotta hold that sucker down to tha table somehows ya know (spits tobacco)It was probably the rubber truck strap that made it possible................
Well ya! Ya gotta hold that sucker down to tha table somehows ya know (spits tobacco)
You don't necessarily build for a longer bar, you build for the activity son. What I mean is a good builder can reconize the difference in a build for a comercal tree contractor that need a specific saw to stump large trees to the duff, crossing the hardest fibers. Regardless of hardwoods or softwoods this application should be very different from the numbers that of a pro faller of the PNW. Apparently it's easier to port a saw than port suited saws? Whatever! we are all learning. If the operators aren't listening to the builders and the builders aren't listening to the operators then nobody really learns. It's much like paying for pssy and eating it through a dental dam, it's never quite right. With a non Rev limiter coil as well a peak tune and the complaints of a savvy builder such as a guy like @mdavlee my objective has been meet. @blsnelling has shown GREAT demonstrations of many extremely nice products in the "loggers build" (fallers) but he had a flood at the time I was in the market and he "took a month off".Like the tittle said ,i would like to start a serious thread on this . I have had several loggers hear about my hopped up saws ,and they want me to mod theirs ,i have turned down 6-7 jobs now and gave references to other builders ,but they need them for work ,and do not have the time to send them off and wait to get this service done ,What kind of grinding tools do i need and how do i come up with good #s for a worksaw that will be wearing a longer bar ?
Depends on the Saw of course.In all seriousness, what are "safe numbers" as far as generic rule of thumb in degrees to keep one out of trouble
LMAOOh man, is this ever going to be a goodun!!
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