Thall's 262xp Rebuilded

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Most likely your holding out for new Erin LaVoie doll from Stihl.:hmm3grin2orange:

My dealer says he can't find the parts number for that one. Are we really sure Stihl don't do mail order for certain items in great demand? Other companies in that line of business seems to...

Great thread anyway, thanks manual.

Now I just have to talk my 8-year old girl out of going horseback riding today and joining me in finding out if the 020t I got in one box and three bags yesterday is complete or not, and then I'll be passing on knowledge to the next generation as well. Don't think I can sell her on just the saw though, probably has to trash talk the horses a bit...
 
There is lots if IPLs on Huskys web-site - and the library goes back to about 1972 - Husky is the best on that........:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:

I wish I could find one for a 371XP... I got the repair manual and owners manual fine (the repair manual is for a 362XP-365-371XP) but no joy finding a model specific IPL. Mine is #1997-7440642
 
:blob2: :blob2: You prolly would have been sacked, if you bought a husky, on top of the Dolmars.......:yoyo: :yoyo:


My uncle is keeping an eye on you......


Naaaaaaaaa the boys at Stihl know they out number everything in the shed by 10 to 1. I did meet a guy here at the shop this week that says he has a nice running 372. May have to get my hands on it and give it whirl Sawtroll, who knows, I might like that saw as much as you do....
 
Ok,
Don't forget to open the intake manifold and muffler to the same openings of the port you just modded or all your will not get the results your looking for.


After replacing the pull cord and reel. I was ready to assembly the plastic parts.


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Ok,
Don't forget to open the intake manifold and muffler to the same openings of the port you just modded or all your will not get the results your looking for.


After replacing the pull cord and reel. I was ready to assembly the plastic parts.


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Saw looks good Manual, real good. Good job.
 
Thanks tom,
I installed a windsor 16" bar and I'm sure you noticed the Stihl chain. ;)
This baby has no hesitation from Idle to WOT. it's there and it's now.
I'm going out to the property and sink it in some wood today.


I saw that yellow link in that chain. I figured I'd be nice and not say anything,hehe
 
Great thread Manual!!!! I nearly skipped over it - didn't say Stihl :biggrinbounce2:

Real nice work, and I saved some bullets for you.

You just did (wrong saw though ;) ) what I was going to do with my orginal degree wheel project - but it got delayed by the two months plus of storm clean up....
 
So now I needed a Degree wheel and thanks to Lakeside's thread I made one.
(Better LOL). Using a degree wheel is something new to me and getting the numbers you want is even newer.
This is where some people don't want you to know what numbers they used
because it opens a can of worms.
I used

75* on intake. may go down to 70* later.
92* on exhaust
120* on the transfers

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Manual - good looking saw and nice detailed rebuild. I think you made a typo on your numbers - that or I just need to be set straight. You say 75* on intake. I assume that is the intake open degrees, measured before bottom dead center. That will give you a duration of 150*. You then mention you might go to 70* later - unless you are gonna JB weld it, or tig some aluminum back on, that is going to be mighty hard. Were you intending to say that you were going to go to 80* later on? If so, that would be along the lines of what I was thinking.

Your numbers look good - you could go to a full 180* on the exhaust - I would wait and see what your compression is showing first. Wouldn't take it any higher if you are at 165psi or below. I think you could take the intake to 160* duration easily. Nothing wrong with starting conservatively though! You are gonna have a dang nice saw.

Good thread, too! + a few points for you! Josh
 
Great thread Manual!!!! I nearly skipped over it - didn't say Stihl :biggrinbounce2:

Real nice work, and I saved some bullets for you.

You just did (wrong saw though ;) ) what I was going to do with my orginal degree wheel project - but it got delayed by the two months plus of storm clean up....

Sure is, but I fire my green bullets on manual as often as I can, anyway...........:laugh: :laugh: :rockn:


....but he seldom return the favour....
 
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Manual - good looking saw and nice detailed rebuild. I think you made a typo on your numbers - that or I just need to be set straight. You say 75* on intake. I assume that is the intake open degrees, measured before bottom dead center. That will give you a duration of 150*. You then mention you might go to 70* later - unless you are gonna JB weld it, or tig some aluminum back on, that is going to be mighty hard. Were you intending to say that you were going to go to 80* later on? If so, that would be along the lines of what I was thinking.
Josh


It always gets confusing when ATDC or BBDC, and such aren't specifically mentioned.

I think the easiest way to discuss port timing is just to deal with open duration, like 165* duration for intake, 120* duration for transfers and 170* duration for exhaust. All the other values can easily be calculated from duration times if someone is interested in port opening ATDC or ABDC.
 
Manual - good looking saw and nice detailed rebuild. I think you made a typo on your numbers - that or I just need to be set straight. You say 75* on intake. I assume that is the intake open degrees, measured before bottom dead center. That will give you a duration of 150*. You then mention you might go to 70* later - unless you are gonna JB weld it, or tig some aluminum back on, that is going to be mighty hard. Were you intending to say that you were going to go to 80* later on? If so, that would be along the lines of what I was thinking.

Your numbers look good - you could go to a full 180* on the exhaust - I would wait and see what your compression is showing first. Wouldn't take it any higher if you are at 165psi or below. I think you could take the intake to 160* duration easily. Nothing wrong with starting conservatively though! You are gonna have a dang nice saw.

Good thread, too! + a few points for you! Josh
Yes you are right on the intake, I am at 70* right now and would like to lower it 5 more degrees that would take it to 80*. sorry I was looking at the wheel off the saw. this is a learning curve for me.
when I set the carb my compression was 125psi
I ran the saw today and cut 10 cookies when I got home I did a compression test again and am reading 172psi.
I'll run the saw longer before I decide what else to do.
Thanks for your input, This is what I am looking for.
 
That is one cool looking job Manual

I saw that yellow link in that chain. I figured I'd be nice and not say anything,hehe

That Stihl chain is hard to beat out of the box,,,, Period!!!!!!!:hmm3grin2orange: Freak if you are still lurking check you PM's
 
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Good job Manual:rock:



Hmmm.....the rep thing says"you must spread some around before giving it to manual again" Sounds odd to me!
 
That Stihl chain is hard to beat out of the box,,,, Period!!!!!!!:hmm3grin2orange: Freak if you are still lurking check you PM's

Sure is, and not just out of the box...........:biggrinbounce2:

I have mostly used RSC and RM - both superb chains for their respective applications.
 

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