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That is an awsome saw! The jug is HUGE and I love the dual mufflers! You have to post a video when you have it running. I would not want to be holding the business end of that monster in a cut. The old loggers had brass balls!
 
I'm not sure about that, but I've never timed my saws. Anyway, have you blocked off the governor valve in your 075? Doing so will give you a noticeable increase in power and RPM. No, it won't hurt your saw.

Chris B.

Does the 076 have this valve also, and if so, can someone expand on the pros and cons and the how-to of blocking it?

Edit... I also noticed a GB Pro-top on one of these in the pics. Didn't know they made a bar in that mount. Will one of the sponsors PM me a quote for a 36" 3/8 bar delivered to 40475? I can get a Stihl ES here locally for about 80+ tax.

thanks,
Ian
 
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That's a great find, not quite my style but cool enough to almost make me a 2man saw convert.

Hoss, every collector should have a two man saw. Running one is an experience on its own, not to mention the cool sound ... :cheers:

The problem is these scratcher chains are not easy to sharpen. I was lucky to have a few new loops on my dolmar CL, but I am not looking forward to sharpen the one on the BDN.
 
Does the 076 have this valve also, and if so, can someone expand on the pros and cons and the how-to of blocking it?


thanks,
Ian

Older Stihl like the 08S, Contra, etc all have a governor valve that is activated by the air flow generated by the flywheel. It's spring loaded so you can adjust it quite easily. My experience is that they activate the choke quite early, and your saw 4 strokes at fairly low rpm. I have seen many saws where the owner just disconnected the choke activating rod or stripped the governor assy entirely. If I needed the saw for work, I would remove the governor immediately.

it would surprise me if the 076 did have one.
 
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Hoss, every collector should have a two man saw. Running one is an experience on its own, not to mention the cool sound ... :cheers:

The problem is these scratcher chains are not easy to sharpen. I was lucky to have a few new loops on my dolmar CL, but I am not looking forward to sharpen the one on the BDN.

Does an 090 with a helper handle count as a two man saw? How bout a double ender bar with an 090 on either end?
 
I run the forgotten big Mac a SP105 and like the old girl. Next time I find a worthy adversary for the old girl I will take a pic.I would say it definitely has more more power than the 056 mag I had but it does have a 10cc+ edge.
But the only really big trees I ever cut are Poplar and half the time a beaver has done half the work!
One thing I really like about all my Mac's is let them sit for a half year put fuel in them and 3-4 pulls they run.
 
One thing I really like about all my Mac's is let them sit for a half year put fuel in them and 3-4 pulls they run.

Funny, I've read other posts saying how temperamental the big Macs were at cold starts.
I agree with you. Mine can set for months and start cold on about 4 pulls - one after warm up.
 
Has anyone else had trouble starting a SP125 when it's hot. Mine starts on 4 -5 pulls when cold but after running awhile and stopping to tighten the chain, I have not been able to restart until letting it sit awhile and letting it cool. Any ideas?
 
Just a few thoughts

Has anyone else had trouble starting a SP125 when it's hot. Mine starts on 4 -5 pulls when cold but after running awhile and stopping to tighten the chain, I have not been able to restart until letting it sit awhile and letting it cool. Any ideas?


Does it run well until you shut it down and wait a few moments? Are you shutting it down right after cutting or letting it run a few moments with no load to help the engine cool down a little?

I don't know if this can happen on a saw or not but maybe you're getting a little vapor lock from overheated fuel.
Make sure the cylinder fins are clear so air can get through.
Maybe timing is over advanced, causing higher engine temps?
Restricted exhaust?
 
Has anyone else had trouble starting a SP125 when it's hot. Mine starts on 4 -5 pulls when cold but after running awhile and stopping to tighten the chain, I have not been able to restart until letting it sit awhile and letting it cool. Any ideas?


Coil might be failing.
 
Here is a picture of my 1967 Wards 820 that is a 134cc PowerBee motor.

I'm running a 32" bar
7x.404

Talk about loud and heavy... The only thing in the exhaust is a piece of SS screen.
jerry-

That thing is BAAADAAAA$$$$$$. I'll bet that it makes that 32" bar feel like a 16.
 
That thing is BAAADAAAA$$$$$$. I'll bet that it makes that 32" bar feel like a 16.

I cut a lot of dry oak and it never boggs down. I do have a 21" and 32" Oregon roller tip bars and with the 20" it screams. I put a 1" intake and carb on the saw along with kevlar reed valves and an electronic ignition. It starts easy and will run all day as long as you keep feeding it gas.

jerry-
 
Ya +1. Wards had some cool stuff, but that is the coolest!

My Dad bought the saw in 1967 from Mongomery Wards and it was the first chainsaw I ever used. Every saw I've used since then has been pretty tame compared to this saw. I actually found a second saw a couple of years ago from a kid that works at the local lawnmower shop. He was going to scrap the aluminum frame and use the motor for a mini-bike. I got the frame for $20.00 and he finally sold me the motor this past year for $100.00. I ended up selling the frame to Art Martin for him to bulid another race saw and I kept the motor for a spare for my saw. Parts are still available for the motors and a stroker kit is available to take the motor from 8.2ci. (134cc) to a 10ci. (I'm guessing about 150cc?) I'm thinking the spare motor I have would be a good candidate for that stroker kit. I'm currently building a mill and using one of these motors as a powerhead instead of a chainsaw. It will have plenty of power for running long bars.

jerry-
 
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