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On saws with the LH starter, I just wind the spring into the starter housing.

On saws with the RH starter you really need to wind the spring up out of the saw then carefully insert it with a pair of long nose pliers.

Either way, they are not too bad to work on.

One thing I've found is that it is often easier to fit the pulley over the spring first, then align the pulley with the holes and push the starter shaft in place then secure it with the 10-24 HHCS.

If you have the white plastic bushings in the starter, make sure the little alignment tabs are fit into the appropriate slots or the assembly will not go together and work.

Mark
 
On saws with the LH starter, I just wind the spring into the starter housing.

On saws with the RH starter you really need to wind the spring up out of the saw then carefully insert it with a pair of long nose pliers.

Either way, they are not too bad to work on.

One thing I've found is that it is often easier to fit the pulley over the spring first, then align the pulley with the holes and push the starter shaft in place then secure it with the 10-24 HHCS.

If you have the white plastic bushings in the starter, make sure the little alignment tabs are fit into the appropriate slots or the assembly will not go together and work.

Mark

O yeah .... truer words were never spoken .... :cheers:

Over on this side of the river, recoil spring issues are a thing of the past. This little gadget (off eBay) is the coolest thing since the Ice Age:

 
been my experience that if the tab(s) are broken off the plastic bushings it won't work right. either have to get non-broken bushings or devise some type of repair. be advised that the bushing have a diagonal split where it hugs the shaft. not to be confused with a broken bushing
 
O yeah .... truer words were never spoken .... :cheers:

Over on this side of the river, recoil spring issues are a thing of the past. This little gadget (off eBay) is the coolest thing since the Ice Age:


THAT looks like a suggestion for weedeatermans tool buy.
 
About :30 round-trip.

:cheers:[/QUOTE]

That would be a personal best for me on a recoil spring...by quite a bit.
 
About :30 round-trip.

:cheers:

That would be a personal best for me on a recoil spring...by quite a bit.[/QUOTE]

With this rewinder, I can pop out the spring, clean it, wind it and replace it in under 5 minutes. The big time consumer is the cleaning of the crud that's usually under there.
 
The Mac 10-10S and the Quake making some chips fly.

The Mac was making sawdust though, buddy had filed it, but I filed 'er good and she was back to throwing chips again...

Done pretty well, but is still hard to start. Think it needs the carb rebuilt, but I doubt he'd want to put any money in it.

 
was using my mac 10-10A this weekend and put a sthil green 3/8- 50 verified with my calipers on a stk 16 in mac hard tip bar and was unusable would smoke and scortch the oil and was all over the clutch cover? scratching my head a bit on this as the bar had plenty of oil but wasnt liking that chain. I re measured the drive link and got .050 so anyone had this issue?
 
The oil hole in the bar is clogged or too small. The 10 series oil through the adjuster hole not a separate hole in the side like most saws. Check to make sure the hole is unclogged. If its clear but looks really small you can use a dremel with a 1.5" cut off wheel to openthe slot in the bar.
 
The oil hole in the bar is clogged or too small. The 10 series oil through the adjuster hole not a separate hole in the side like most saws. Check to make sure the hole is unclogged. If its clear but looks really small you can use a dremel with a 1.5" cut off wheel to openthe slot in the bar.

I did blow compressed air thru the bar i was thinking it was clogged, I did not check to see if it was to small. I very slightly adjusted it for more oil as i read these are finiky on oil adjustments. this is an early 10-10A it does not have any guide plates i have seen some ipl with guide plates and some without. View attachment 309090
 
you don't nessesarly need bar plates for correct oil flow but you do need atleast one on the powerhead side to protect the oil tank from chain rash. check to make sure there are not any gouges in the mounting areas of the oil tank and side cover.
 
you don't nessesarly need bar plates for correct oil flow but you do need atleast one on the powerhead side to protect the oil tank from chain rash. check to make sure there are not any gouges in the mounting areas of the oil tank and side cover.

this has no guide plates so I'll start looking for some. that one in you sig looks great with that McC bar on it.thx
 
Okay so feel I'm close on getting this 10-10A to running but the starter cord keeps pulling out. Any tips on getting this to hold well with the funky little bar that has to go through the starter cord? Drive a nail through and cut it off?


Sent on the fly.
 
Okay so feel I'm close on getting this 10-10A to running but the starter cord keeps pulling out. Any tips on getting this to hold well with the funky little bar that has to go through the starter cord? Drive a nail through and cut it off?


Sent on the fly.

are you heating the rivet to melt a hole in the rope? if so, STOP DOING THAT!!! it weakens the rope and only last a few pulls before it breaks. I just use a small nail/brad and drive it through the rope and then cut the brad with some dikes so only an 8th inch sticks out of one side with the head of the brad bottomed on the other side of the rope. then pull your rope through the hole in the pulley with the head facing the center of the pulley. I'm sure you're pretty good at the rest of it by now:laugh:
 
need demo pix or it don't work

Since Jerry issued the challenge; I've decided to respond. I never committed to a TIMELY response .... LOL

The audio track isn't fantastic. Pull out your watches; by my sundial, I was successful in 3 minutes and short change ... despite the fact that the spring fought me the entire time.

[video]http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/Warped5/media/Other%20stuff/GEDC1543_zps5df07145.mp4.html[/video]
 

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