The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
Well, finally got our firewooding done for this season. Started late, and was blessed with unseasonably nice weather for October. I started the wood getting this season using the Homelite SuperXL w/28"B/C and low pro chain. It did OK, but about 1/3 of the way in, I grabbed the old RH start 10-10, and man what a difference!! that think flat out cuts wood! And it is light to boot! What an awesome saw. I have another RH start one, I think I will work on this winter and get up and running. I really like them they are a tad lighter than the LH start models.
I have three 10-10's in pieces on one workbench right now, all LH starters. I should be able to make one nice runner out of the lot and have some good parts left over. One had the fairlead on the starter but I already moved that over to and SP81 that I thought was more deserving. Another one has the short clutch cover with brake, I will find a better home for that one as well on a slightly more energetic model.
Mark
Mark
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, the siggy line has changed.... 
After some cutting yesterday with the bud I had repaired the Mac 10-10S for above, I asked him how it was running, he said he couldn't get it started easily, and that it wasn't running. So we tried to start it, and was a no-go, even with mix in the plug hole. So he looked at it and said. "Get it out of here, do what you want with it." Think it was too heavy and vibrations were too much really.
So, strapped it to the four-wheeler, and home it came as a nice freebie.
Got it running with a few pulls, but can't seem to find a good idle on it. Figure it needs the carb rebuild, as I'd guess the diaphragms are still stiffer than should be.
Will go from there, it's missing the check valve for the fuel cap, and still would need the clutch cover w/brake and handle. Air filter could stand a replacing also.
Will also yank the muffler and check p/c, and did find a crack in the corner of the carb box, but shouldn't affect anything.
Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
After some cutting yesterday with the bud I had repaired the Mac 10-10S for above, I asked him how it was running, he said he couldn't get it started easily, and that it wasn't running. So we tried to start it, and was a no-go, even with mix in the plug hole. So he looked at it and said. "Get it out of here, do what you want with it." Think it was too heavy and vibrations were too much really.
So, strapped it to the four-wheeler, and home it came as a nice freebie.
Got it running with a few pulls, but can't seem to find a good idle on it. Figure it needs the carb rebuild, as I'd guess the diaphragms are still stiffer than should be.
Will go from there, it's missing the check valve for the fuel cap, and still would need the clutch cover w/brake and handle. Air filter could stand a replacing also.
Will also yank the muffler and check p/c, and did find a crack in the corner of the carb box, but shouldn't affect anything.
Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
A 10-10S in good condition is a snappy little saw. I have a recently rebuilt PM55 (same thing but with the short clutch cover) and it really rips.
Here are some photos of the 10-10 project I described above. The first one is together and running, I will make one more and then put the good bits away in the attic for the next 10 Series project. The third saw had only 90 PSI compression, maybe I will try making a fixture for my newly acquired mill/drill and bore it 0.010 or 0.020" oversize.
Mark
Here are some photos of the 10-10 project I described above. The first one is together and running, I will make one more and then put the good bits away in the attic for the next 10 Series project. The third saw had only 90 PSI compression, maybe I will try making a fixture for my newly acquired mill/drill and bore it 0.010 or 0.020" oversize.
Mark
Second 10-10 is underway. I decided to replace the rings in this one as compression was down around 130 PSI, the first one is close to 150 PSI. While I had it down I measured the piston and cylinder, may be 0.001 to 0.0015" more clearance than new but why not? Amazing that after all the years and all the use the piston and cylinder are in such good condition.
Here are a few of photos of the saw in process.
Old rings had more than 0.025 end gap, I set the new ones between 0.010 and 0.012" just to give it enough room to heat up. Seems I remember from some of the old literature McCulloch recommend a ring end gap of 0.004 to 0.012" on the 2" bore saws so this one should still be plenty loose.
Mark
Here are a few of photos of the saw in process.
Old rings had more than 0.025 end gap, I set the new ones between 0.010 and 0.012" just to give it enough room to heat up. Seems I remember from some of the old literature McCulloch recommend a ring end gap of 0.004 to 0.012" on the 2" bore saws so this one should still be plenty loose.
Mark
I finished up the second one last night. I would not run properly at first, I could not decide if it was ignition or carburetor so I changed the carburetor and solved that one. The second one (with the black bar) runs so nicely I may actually take it along to cut some wood one day.
The first one with the Mac 10 bar has the McCulloch .354 chain
Mark
The first one with the Mac 10 bar has the McCulloch .354 chain
Mark
arrow13
ArboristSite Operative
Great pics, and nice work as usual Mark. Thanks for sharing.
I've got a few saws to work on before I can get to a 7-10 that was given to me recently.
I've got a few saws to work on before I can get to a 7-10 that was given to me recently.
I have one of the velocity stacks from Terry at Cascade Saw, I may have to try something like that. I do have a couple of cylinders in need of a bore and I do have one 0.020" over piston.
Mark
Mark
Just pick up a stack/filter kit up from eBay for a pocket bike with a walbro carb and bore it out to 7/8" to fit the SDC. You will also need some 10-24 x 2.5" long screws to attach the stack. It doesn't add any power I don't think but it gives you easy access to carb adjustments and better filtration than the 10-10 filters you can never find.
I take that is a K&N filter? Care to share the part number?
Mark
Mark
It is not a k&n oiled gauze filter. Just a cheap paper with steel mesh reinforcement. I prefer a dry paper element as they don't clog as quickly as an oiled one of this size would. I purchased this stack and filter as a combo shipped for 20 bucks!
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, got into the 10-10s a little bit. Was mainly wanting to check out the p/c...
First was a compression check.
Was surprised at the result, that should do nicely..
Top apart and shown with its MAC hardnose bar..
A little chain rash.
But then after muffler removal, found a little bit of concern..
Bottom of piston.
Looked good until...
Strange that it doesn't go all the way down the piston, and seems to still have good compression. Should I leave it alone or re-ring it? Was it carbon? I'll probably tear it down to the cylinder and see, since I have it this far.
Tried to get a shot of the cylinder through the exhaust, didn't look too bad.
Gonna have to replace the plug wire.
Far as I made it with it last night, with no fire in the Englander 30, twas getting a little cool...
My Shindy 500 p/c looked worse, so not too concerned, and I may go ahead and sand the scratches down on the piston and re-ring it if I can find the rings...
First was a compression check.
Was surprised at the result, that should do nicely..
Top apart and shown with its MAC hardnose bar..
A little chain rash.
But then after muffler removal, found a little bit of concern..
Bottom of piston.
Looked good until...
Strange that it doesn't go all the way down the piston, and seems to still have good compression. Should I leave it alone or re-ring it? Was it carbon? I'll probably tear it down to the cylinder and see, since I have it this far.
Tried to get a shot of the cylinder through the exhaust, didn't look too bad.
Gonna have to replace the plug wire.
Far as I made it with it last night, with no fire in the Englander 30, twas getting a little cool...
My Shindy 500 p/c looked worse, so not too concerned, and I may go ahead and sand the scratches down on the piston and re-ring it if I can find the rings...
I would be inclined to leave it alone at 150 PS compression. If you decided to go with new rings, be sure to get the correct part number (92517) as the 10-10S has a bigger bore than the regular 10-10, 1.812 compared to 1.750. The PM 55 is also 1.812 and later models used the same PN piston and rings.
Mar
Mar
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, that may be the best bet, as it does run well. Don't think it would get worse either.
Looking through the spark plug hole, I still see some cross-hatching left on the cylinder....
Did forget to mention a little crack in the carb box, not sure how it would do that either, as there is no other damage to the saw...
Maybe a stress crack? Don't see it hurting a thing though...
Well, seems as if this crack also goes through to the starter housing bolt right below.. Looks like there is plenty there to hold it, but will keep an eye on it.
Switch removed for wire replacement, required removing the throttle assy from handle..
Anyway, ready for a washing...
A question about the decomp.
It doesn't work when installed, it won't push down. However, when I take it out, it works fine. Looking down the hole, it looks like there is a cone-looking piece down there with what resembles to be an allen key socket. I took the allen head set screw beside the decomp out, but didn't see as that did anything.
Starts well enough without the decomp, but since it was on there, if it was an easy fix...
Looking through the spark plug hole, I still see some cross-hatching left on the cylinder....
Did forget to mention a little crack in the carb box, not sure how it would do that either, as there is no other damage to the saw...
Maybe a stress crack? Don't see it hurting a thing though...
Well, seems as if this crack also goes through to the starter housing bolt right below.. Looks like there is plenty there to hold it, but will keep an eye on it.
Switch removed for wire replacement, required removing the throttle assy from handle..
Anyway, ready for a washing...
A question about the decomp.
It doesn't work when installed, it won't push down. However, when I take it out, it works fine. Looking down the hole, it looks like there is a cone-looking piece down there with what resembles to be an allen key socket. I took the allen head set screw beside the decomp out, but didn't see as that did anything.
Starts well enough without the decomp, but since it was on there, if it was an easy fix...
Last edited:
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, was parts searching, and low and behold a supposedly complete 10-10S parts saw with an unopened carb kit popped up for $50.
Snapped that one up, considering I'd end up paying way more than that for the parts I needed individually.. The clutch cover was nearly that much itself...
Did get mine washed up and looking good, and will await arrival of the other saw for the carb kit to install in my carb.
Speaking of, also awaiting arrival of my new USC cleaner from H/F. Ended up paying about $62 for the 2.5L one after sale price and coupon. Hopefully this will make carb cleanings much easier...
First carb could be the 10-10s...
Snapped that one up, considering I'd end up paying way more than that for the parts I needed individually.. The clutch cover was nearly that much itself...
Did get mine washed up and looking good, and will await arrival of the other saw for the carb kit to install in my carb.
Speaking of, also awaiting arrival of my new USC cleaner from H/F. Ended up paying about $62 for the 2.5L one after sale price and coupon. Hopefully this will make carb cleanings much easier...
First carb could be the 10-10s...
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I guess I need to get crackin' on all the 10-10's I have out in the shop. I have a PM55 torn down, and I need to tear down the wrecked 10-10S I have. I was under the impression that one had a chrome bore with a bare piston, while the other was the opposite. From what Mr. Heimannm said above, that is not 100% accurate? That filter stack solves a problem for me too, will have to pick up a couple.
