tips for felling leaners.

[cityevader]

I'm working on '09 and '10 woodpiles, and for the first time cutting down Black Locust. These are skinny/tall and close together. Maybe 50-60' tall with 8" base, spaced about every 6' apart on a quarter acre. There's several that have fallen and tangled up in each other, which is what I want to avoid while cutting.

So are there any general guidlines for felling opposite of the lean? (without enough trunk to wedge) Such as "X" number of feet high can usually have "X" number of off-vertical feet at the top and still easily fall opposite? Crown is fairly uniform with a small excess to the lean side.

I'm guessing make a small-ish wedge cut to keep the tension side stronger?

Too dense with intermixed Bay trees to get a picture worth anything. My rope isn't quite long enough to span the open space to next solid object, and can't climb them other than a ladder to place a pull-rope 12 feet up.

If it falls backwards, it'll get hung up, but at least in an easy spot to pull it from the trunk out into the open.

 

[southsoundtree]

can you use a throwline and through weight to pull a line into the tree. If possible pull the rope up with the throwline and use a running bowline knot secured around a strong limb if not the trunk itself.

A big shot is a bit spendy, but very nice to have. The trajectory of the throw weight will be linear instead of an arc.

I think that the sherrill tree website has throwline tips as well as knot tying tips.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I'm working on '09 and '10 woodpiles, and for the first time cutting down Black Locust. These are skinny/tall and close together. Maybe 50-60' tall with 8" base, spaced about every 6' apart on a quarter acre. There's several that have fallen and tangled up in each other, which is what I want to avoid while cutting.

So are there any general guidlines for felling opposite of the lean? (without enough trunk to wedge) Such as "X" number of feet high can usually have "X" number of off-vertical feet at the top and still easily fall opposite? Crown is fairly uniform with a small excess to the lean side.

I'm guessing make a small-ish wedge cut to keep the tension side stronger?

Too dense with intermixed Bay trees to get a picture worth anything. My rope isn't quite long enough to span the open space to next solid object, and can't climb them other than a ladder to place a pull-rope 12 feet up.

If it falls backwards, it'll get hung up, but at least in an easy spot to pull it from the trunk out into the open.

Sounds do-able it is firewood, go for the quickest method. If you thinking of the pactice for later use get a longer rope and go for the throwline method.

I have wedged them over with a small facecut then a plunge cut in the back and start driving wedges into the back side of the plunge. Then take out the holding strap with an axe just above the plunge cut so the wedges dont pop out when you start driving them. Drive the wedges in till it breaks over the other direction from the initial lean. The wedges were stacked but not to increase the angle. Big end over little end so it stayed flat and parallel to the hinge.

 

[southsoundtree]

You can cut your backcut first, hoping not to have it sit onto your bar, pinching it in place, then insert wedges, then a GOOD facecut. Pound away on the wedges.


Use what some call the quarter cut technique. Cut the face. Cut one side of back cut, insert wedge, cut other side of back cut, insert another wedge. pound wedges. Keep eyes to the sky for anything loose in the canopy (as always). I mention this because of the greater amount of pounding required.

 

[bama]

You can cut your backcut first, hoping not to have it sit onto your bar, pinching it in place, then insert wedges, then a GOOD facecut. Pound away on the wedges.


Use what some call the quarter cut technique. Cut the face. Cut one side of back cut, insert wedge, cut other side of back cut, insert another wedge. pound wedges. Keep eyes to the sky for anything loose in the canopy (as always). I mention this because of the greater amount of pounding required.

Could you try this on a 24" diameter dead, red oak? I have some that are right beside a river where I cut, but lean towards the river(15-20 degrees). They are at least 60' and would make some good wood. I would rather not put them over the river, although it would not hurt anyone if it did(other than my pride). The dang limbs don't even start until close to 20 feet up, so there is nothing to tie off on and it is RIGHT beside the river(3 feet). So far, I have just passed it up and cut in other places. I could do the same and never run out of wood, but I would like to fill the trailer with one tree someday.

 

[southsoundtree]

Could you try this on a 24" diameter dead, red oak? I have some that are right beside a river where I cut, but lean towards the river(15-20 degrees). They are at least 60' and would make some good wood. I would rather not put them over the river, although it would not hurt anyone if it did(other than my pride). The dang limbs don't even start until close to 20 feet up, so there is nothing to tie off on and it is RIGHT beside the river(3 feet). So far, I have just passed it up and cut in other places. I could do the same and never run out of wood, but I would like to fill the trailer with one tree someday.

the longer the tree has been dead, the less integrity the hinge has.

If its 24" diameter, you can easily get wedges in to the back cut.

It may be difficult to have a proper escape route if it is right next to the river.

A throwline and throw weight to install a strong rope, high up into the tree would be good to go along with the wedges. Get felling wedges, the kind with "dogs" or "barbs" on them as you will likely need to double stack them. They will bite in without sliding sideways as much. They are much less likely to spit out the back cut. I'd say at least three matching pairs would be good.

There is a trick with a hydraulic piston jack, too.

do you have pictures of these oaks?
How much felling experience do you have? this doesn't sound like its newbie territory, for your safety's sake. It might be well within your reach, but sounds like you will need at least one other person to help, as you should have anytime you're felling (not that I've not felled some trees solo on snowshoes at a isolated mountain cabin before, just wasn't the smartest idea).

 

[cityevader]

I just wish my leaners were fatter. They're just so skinny for how tall they are. I think i'll try the plunge backcut first, set the wedge, then a moderate sized face cut, then nip a bit off each remaining areas beside the wedge... If it goes backwards, no biggie.

 

[ray benson]

I'm working on '09 and '10 woodpiles, and for the first time cutting down Black Locust. These are skinny/tall and close together. Maybe 50-60' tall with 8" base, spaced about every 6' apart on a quarter acre. There's several that have fallen and tangled up in each other, which is what I want to avoid while cutting.
So are there any general guidlines for felling opposite of the lean? (without enough trunk to wedge) Such as "X" number of feet high can usually have "X" number of off-vertical feet at the top and still easily fall opposite? Crown is fairly uniform with a small excess to the lean side.
I'm guessing make a small-ish wedge cut to keep the tension side stronger?
If it falls backwards, it'll get hung up, but at least in an easy spot to pull it from the trunk out into the open.

Take a look at page 21 for chart.

 

[cityevader]

Take a look at page 21 for chart.

SWEET!!!
That is exactly what I was looking for, thank you!

 

[reachtreeservi]

Thanks Ray, fot that pdf.

Alot of good info in there. I'm going to make my new hires read a copy .

 

[bama]

the longer the tree has been dead, the less integrity the hinge has.

If its 24" diameter, you can easily get wedges in to the back cut.

It may be difficult to have a proper escape route if it is right next to the river.

A throwline and throw weight to install a strong rope, high up into the tree would be good to go along with the wedges. Get felling wedges, the kind with "dogs" or "barbs" on them as you will likely need to double stack them. They will bite in without sliding sideways as much. They are much less likely to spit out the back cut. I'd say at least three matching pairs would be good.

There is a trick with a hydraulic piston jack, too.

do you have pictures of these oaks?
How much felling experience do you have? this doesn't sound like its newbie territory, for your safety's sake. It might be well within your reach, but sounds like you will need at least one other person to help, as you should have anytime you're felling (not that I've not felled some trees solo on snowshoes at a isolated mountain cabin before, just wasn't the smartest idea).

Thanks for the information. Its clarity tells me to leave them alone. I will work on the deadfalls and the easy drops. Plenty of them around for a lifetime!

 

[Schultzz]

How bout using an ATV winch (not on the ATV) and bring along a battery, with a snatch block to pull opposite from where you are standing and onto the land instead of in the river?

 

[abohac]

I don't know if I'm missing something here but why don't you just cut them down in the direction they want to go and pull them out with a truck or tractor?

 

[cityevader]

Partly for the experience and practice to make a tree do what I want it to do, not what it wants to do.

 

[ropensaddle]

Hmmmm I would hook my winch up twenty foot and pull it out of the ground lol!

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Hmmmm I would hook my winch up twenty foot and pull it out of the ground lol!

:hmm3grin2orange: We dont all have a winch like that one.

 

[ropensaddle]

:hmm3grin2orange: We dont all have a winch like that one.

Yeah I always seem to forget stuff nowadays:crazy1:
Anyway much good advice has been given a throw ball
and adequate rope combined with a decent pull would
most likely fix this situation as long as care is given to
the notch and backcut. I have the good sized winch on
my bucket and the experiance to use it but I am sure some
engineers could say not proper and make me look like a
hap hazard hack. Oh well I am usually done before they get
the chance to spurt the spew from their orifice

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Yeah I always seem to forget stuff nowadays:crazy1:
Anyway much good advice has been given a throw ball
and adequate rope combined with a decent pull would
most likely fix this situation as long as care is given to
the notch and backcut. I have the good sized winch on
my bucket and the experiance to use it but I am sure some
engineers could say not proper and make me look like a
hap hazard hack. Oh well I am usually done before they get
the chance to spurt the spew from their orifice

I was going to agree with you about the engineer part but then thought better of it. If you are getting paid by the job you dont want to spend all day looking it over and waiting for the wind to change, you get in, get it done, get paid and move on.

If I was getting paid by the hour you can be sure it wouldn't be done today.

"We are on break right now, check back in 2 weeks and see how well we are progressing then."

 

[cityevader]

My equipment list is one saw, a machete, climging spikes, and my bare hands.

 

[bama]

How bout using an ATV winch (not on the ATV) and bring along a battery, with a snatch block to pull opposite from where you are standing and onto the land instead of in the river?

It think it would take a severe amount of leverage for this size of tree

I don't know if I'm missing something here but why don't you just cut them down in the direction they want to go and pull them out with a truck or tractor?

I don't have access to that kind of equipment. I know my 4X4 won't pull that size tree up a river bank, especially if the base of the trunk slips into the river. I don't have any friends who would come over(at least 100 miles from where they live) to help me move it with a tractor. These are big trees. I do not want to fill the river up with my mistakes. In a flood, they will hit against a downstream bridge or two. I can't say I want to be responsible for that kind of damage.


If I can't do it safe and right, then they can stay there until God takes them down.