Tired of Dull Chains

[Marine5068]

Is anyone else tired of dull chainsaw chains and hand filing them sharp?
I am.
I have three 20" chains that always need sharpening and was thinking of getting a power sharpener.
I use my saws for cutting mostly hardwoods for my woodstove, which I use during shoulder seasons , about three cords of wood a year, but I also help locals fell and buck trees all over my area and need sharp, good working saws ready to go.
I spotted one chainsaw wheel grinder at my local TSC store for $100 on sale from $170 and almost bought it (sale is on till next week).
I know that hand filing is still useful in the field and for touch-ups but I want something to do a better job at getting all the links sticky sharp.
Any experience and thoughts on this would be a big help. Is it worth getting one?
Thanks.

 

[Whitespider]

Yeah, I've got some thoughts.

I've never seen a power sharpener (grinder) that could put as sharp an edge on the cutters as a proper hand filing does... so if'n ya' want "all the links sticky sharp", buy a couple new files.
I've never seen a sharpening job from a power sharpener (grinder) last as long as a proper hand filing does... so if'n ya' want a long-lasting cutting edge, buy a couple new files.
I have a dozen or so chains (16" and 20"), and I have no problem keeping sharp chains "ready to go" using hand files... I can sharpen a chain in 5-10 minutes; do you think a power sharpener (grinder) will be faster doing 2 or 3 chains?? Think again.
If ya' just want a power sharpener (grinder), then get one. Besides, they can be handy when and if ya' badly screw-up a chain. But ya' sure don't need to justify it to us... power tools/toys/equipment are the measure of a man. Heck, I've got stuff I ain't never used (the latest acquisition is a scroll saw I have absolutely zero use for... but I may take it out'a the box and mount it on the bench just for the cool factor).

He who dies with the most toys... WINS‼
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[KenJax Tree]

I have a whole box of sharpening gadgets, but all that ever gets used is a wood handle with a file it.

 

[Whitespider]

I have a whole box of sharpening gadgets...

Too damn funny... my once-used sharpening gadgets ain't in a box, they're in a drawer‼
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[Sagetown]

If you were sharpening 10 chains a day, an electric grinder might be in order. For 3 chains, I'd get a file Jig. Make all the required settings for your chain, sharpen them, then touch them up after a days work, and get used to the position of your file. Once you get confident to file free hand, you can whisk through those chains in a jiffy, and usually it only takes a stroke or two to keep those chains extra sharp. It is easy to fall into a bad habit, so, occasionally get out the jig, and re-orient yourself. Happy Filing.

 

[zogger]

IMO, the powersharp system is absolutely the fastest from dull to back sharp and cutting, but it is low pro 3/8ths and I believe only up to an 18 inch loop, maybe even a 16. No full 3/8ths 20 chain yet, as soon as they have one, I'm on it bigtime. I can hand sharpen well, not great but good enough, but..I have a 14 inch powersharp, zooba it works, 4-5 seconds dull to sharp for the whole chain!

Anyway, you'll hear about granberg file and guide and other sort of jigs that work. I use an older version of the pferd two files at once holder, does the cutter and depth gauge at the same time. Here is the new and allegedly improved version, holds three files, so left and right is just flop the tool over.

http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b010503P.html

 

[CTYank]

IMO, the powersharp system is absolutely the fastest from dull to back sharp and cutting, but it is low pro 3/8ths and I believe only up to an 18 inch loop, maybe even a 16. No full 3/8ths 20 chain yet, as soon as they have one, I'm on it bigtime. I can hand sharpen well, not great but good enough, but..I have a 14 inch powersharp, zooba it works, 4-5 seconds dull to sharp for the whole chain!

Anyway, you'll hear about granberg file and guide and other sort of jigs that work. I use an older version of the pferd two files at once holder, does the cutter and depth gauge at the same time. Here is the new and allegedly improved version, holds three files, so left and right is just flop the tool over.

http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b010503P.html

Granberg "File-N-Joint" is the tool. Clamps onto bar. Always in my tool-bag. A few others are similar.
Highly recommended. No special bits for various cutter designs. For any 1/4"-3/8" pitch chain just 5/32", 3/16", and 7/32" files cover it.
Conscious thought and a 15-minute attention span can get you up & running. No way can you do a better job sharpening, IMO, especially with minimum metal removal. Every other fill-up, a stroke per tooth, and they're like razors. Files last a long time with it, too. Setting up this guide for doing depth gauges takes a minute or less. It can set them within thousandths, with a 6" flat file.

A grinder like the model Northern Tools lists for $119 (often on special) can be made to work very well for chains off the bar. Can save lots of filing when you hit rocks/metal with a chain. Some guys I work with use saws like a Ditch-Witch. They keep me in practice grinding. Molemab or Oregon wheels run much truer than OEM, making things easier on motor bearings.

Another very simple way to minimize chain sharpening is to run semi-chisel chain rather than full chisel. Full chisel is a macho, hero-racer thing to some (it seems). Even in clean wood, doesn't take much cutting before - click - chain's dull. That quick, and you've little choice but to sharpen it NOW. Semi-chisel takes much longer to get noticeably dull. If the wood's dirty, fuhgeddaboudit, semi-chisel all the way.

I learned the hard way that one gentle file stroke per tooth every other fill-up with a precision guide, and I can just focus on the jpb.

 

[cantoo]

I was in your shoes and finally got the TSC sharpener. It worked great for quite awhile then I noticed that it was more burning the chains than sharpening them. Turns out the oil on the chain was gumming and lubricating the stone and burning the teeth. So I invested in another new stone and started to soak the chains in my parts washer. A machine sharpened chain seemed to last pretty good but then I put a brand new chain on the saw and started cutting and cutting and cutting, then I touched it up with a new file (on sale $1 a piece so I bought 3 dozen, go big or stay home) and kept cutting and cutting and cutting. Before I was putting on fresh machine sharpened chain each trip out. Started to wonder about the time invested and decided it was longer to take the chain off, soak the chain, machine sharpen it and put it back on. I also realized that I had a whole pile of half worn out chains pretty quick. So the machine is gathering dust and taking up floor space. Keep in mind when I bought the thing I was in love, now I feel like it's like a 30 year old marriage, it works but there are better ways. Most of my cutting is pretty clean wood.

 

[Dirtboy]

Been using a hand file for about 8 years now. Had an old timer show me how to do it correctly, takes about 5 minutes on a 20" chain. Only time they go on a grinder is when I accidentally put it in the dirt. And no, I don't own a grinder, saw shop only charges 5 bucks and its been awhile since I struck dirt.

 

[sunfish]

5 minutes with a good file, not a cheap file.

Semi chisel chain stays sharp a lot longer than chisel.

Filed chain stays sharp longer and cuts better than a ground chain, for me.

I run mostly 16" & 18" bars, less teeth to sharpen. 3/8 chain will have less teeth the .325 chain.

 

[haveawoody]

Buy a few more new chains then sharpen all of them of a rainy horrible day.
File for me, my sharpening gizmos have become axe sharpeners and metal clutter.
One gizmo I kept is the 12v sharpener mini wheel grinder, sharpens much like a file sharpness in about 1/4 the time.
Gets used when rainy horrible days don't happen

 

[Toddppm]

I had a nice Oregon bench grinder and the little electric stihl sharpener. Sold them at least 10 years ago. We do tree work regularly so it was quite a drag to have to keep up on the chains. A better investment was to teach my guys how to sharpen by hand. This thing http://www.sherrilltree.com/Chain-Roller-Guide-335#.U-6oZT93uxQ is about the best way to teach somebody how to sharpen. It regulates the depth of the file which I think is the most important part of filing so you don't get that hook in the cutter or file down the straps. Cutter angle and length is important too but the proper depth is even more.

 

[v8titan]

I have a Northern grinder and it does a good job. I too can get a chain sharper by hand filing. The one down side to a grinder is you ultimately shorten the useful life of the chain by removing more material than necessary with each sharpening. It hard too put a quick edge on a marginally dull chain without taking a fair bite on the tooth. Hand filing is the way to go unless you have a chain that is rocked up and needs a full makeover.

 

[philoshop]

Hand filing all the way.
If nothing else, it's the best excuse I've ever found for sipping a little bourbon in the evening.

 

[Veteran]

Use a new GOOD file and never drag the file back against the tooth you are filing.40 + years of filing.

 

[Toddppm]

Is anyone else tired of dull chainsaw chains and hand filing them sharp?
I am.
I have three 20" chains that always need sharpening and was thinking of getting a power sharpener.
I use my saws for cutting mostly hardwoods for my woodstove, which I use during shoulder seasons , about three cords of wood a year, but I also help locals fell and buck trees all over my area and need sharp, good working saws ready to go.
I spotted one chainsaw wheel grinder at my local TSC store for $100 on sale from $170 and almost bought it (sale is on till next week).
I know that hand filing is still useful in the field and for touch-ups but I want something to do a better job at getting all the links sticky sharp.
Any experience and thoughts on this would be a big help. Is it worth getting one?
Thanks.

The best way to keep them ready to go and sharp is to keep them out of the dirt! It's only 3 chains......

 

[Goostoff]

I just take mine to the Amish guy down the road. He hand files them. I have 2- 25" chains, and 2- 16" chains. All are Stihl chain. I have them sharpened once a year.

 

[cattoon]

I use the stihl brand file holder and after much reading on this and a couple of other sites i can do a satisfactory job keeping my chains up. I was guilty of using a file for too long and not paying as much attention to detail as i should have. I also figured out that a feeler gauge and a straight edge will help me keep the depth gauges/ rakers where they need to be so my chains will self feed but not vibrate or be grabby. I have no personal experience with a grinder. If you have the extra cash and want one then have at it. Possibly there is a member here that would be close enough and willing to let you use their grinder and see if you like it. I was using my MS250 today and the Echo 600P and they were throwing shreds and chips as opposed to saw dust, i don't get to cut enough for hand filing to be a chore. I also have three chains per saw.

 

[chucker]

I just take mine to the Amish guy down the road. He hand files them. I have 2- 25" chains, and 2- 16" chains. All are Stihl chain. I have them sharpened once a year.

?? then you either don't cut much wood or you are the best danged chainsaw/wood cutter there ever wazzzzzz???? ! HECK, I have a chain that has never been sharpened! as a matter of fact I don't remember ever taking it out of the box?? lol

 

[Whitespider]

This thing http://www.sherrilltree.com/Chain-Roller-Guide-335#.U-6oZT93uxQ is about the best way to teach somebody how to sharpen.

That's the only sharpening "gadget" I do use, but I had to modify it just a bit to fit Stihl chain. I also removed the depth gauge do-hicky from it (I don't care for it, too slow and always in the way). I don't use it for touch-ups and such, but when I clamp the saw in the bench vise for a full-blown sharpening I will... once you get on to it the darn thing won't add more than a few seconds to the time required for a loop. It flat works to keep the file a the proper depth, or at least a consistent depth... and automatically adjusts that depth as the cutter gets shorter. Simple, effective, inexpensive and super fast, but be warned, it doesn't do anything to keep the file at proper or consistent angles... that part is up to you.
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