Tractor Supply selling 54cc New Poulan Pro saws??

[nighttrain]

Hi all i just picked up a 330 at T.S. i put a 16" bar on it , i was very surprised at the performance i ran it all day cutting maple with no problems at all , i don't think i would be very happy with the 22" bar but the 16" sweet

 

[joecool85]

Well, I went out and did it. I got one. I guess the Oly will be for sale now. I'll list it next weekend after I get the bar and chain on it.

 

[Elmore]

Arriving Soon

Kevin, at the local TS store located one for me in North Carolina. He said it will be here in a few days.
Now to the bar and chain...probably should go with an 18" bar but should I keep it 3/8 or go .325?
I've never used .325 only 3/8 & LP3/8.
What do you fellas think?

 

[Elmore]

On the Oregon chain selector feature it displays 3/8 " chain for this model but only .325 sprockets...very confusing.
No 16" or 18" bars but it does show 20" 22" & 24" bars.

 

[Brmorgan]

Hi all i just picked up a 330 at T.S. i put a 16" bar on it , i was very surprised at the performance i ran it all day cutting maple with no problems at all , i don't think i would be very happy with the 22" bar but the 16" sweet

Muffler mod it and it'll pull a 22" .325 no problem. Personally I tend to prefer .325 on ~50cc saws but 3/8 skip will cut really nice too.

 

[barneyrb]

Try this

330 and 335 are the same

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=EP50+EP43+EJ50+18

 

[Modifiedmark]

On the Oregon chain selector feature it displays 3/8 " chain for this model but only .325 sprockets...very confusing.
No 16" or 18" bars but it does show 20" 22" & 24" bars.

See, this is the downside of that saw that I spoke earlier about, there isnt much selection for a 3/8's pitch bar in a K041 mount.

Right now maybe the time to switch right to the K095 small Husky bar. You have to file the adjuster holes straight up on them till you file into the bar grove for it to oil the chain but it don't take too much to do.

The other plus or minus to doing this, is the saw will then take the standard Husky drive link count chain. For example on a 20" bar it will then take 72 links compared to 70 for the standard 20" K041 mount bar.

If most of your other saws take a 72 link chain this could be the plus.

Take it for what its worth but I did try the .325/3/8's experiment on my Poulan Pro 365 which is a little bit bigger at 60cc and with 20" bars the 3/8's 7 tooth seemed to cut right about the same as the .325 8 tooth did.

 

[Austin1]

See, this is the downside of that saw that I spoke earlier about, there isnt much selection for a 3/8's pitch bar in a K041 mount.

Right now maybe the time to switch right to the K095 small Husky bar. You have to file the adjuster holes straight up on them till you file into the bar grove for it to oil the chain but it don't take too much to do.

The other plus or minus to doing this, is the saw will then take the standard Husky drive link count chain. For example on a 20" bar it will then take 72 links compared to 70 for the standard 20" K041 mount bar.

If most of your other saws take a 72 link chain this could be the plus.

Take it for what its worth but I did try the .325/3/8's experiment on my Poulan Pro 365 which is a little bit bigger at 60cc and with 20" bars the 3/8's 7 tooth seemed to cut right about the same as the .325 8 tooth did.

+1 that's what I did to a bar and chain I got from bailey's originally I bought it for my 2159 to try some .325 on it I just took a dermal to it to make it fit the 041 mount I also drilled a oil holes to line up with the oiler on the 295 works great.

 

[zr900]

So one of these yellow saws followed me home today. The only complaint is that the threads in the cylinder that hold the muffler not very clean.

I was getting ready to muff mod it and noticed a reducer inside the exhaust port. I have never seen this in a saw before and was wondering why it is there?
Should I remove it or leave it? For the muff mod I was thinking of removing the baffles and spark screen and leaving the stock exhaust outlet stock. Suggestions?

 

[Manatarms]

If anyone is interested...TSC in Flanders NJ has these in stock...saw them today.

-Mark

 

[William Balaska]

No tools required to clean air filter.

That filter setup looks like my old Rancher 55 I had, still looks like a rebadged 55 to me, which is fine as it was an excellent saw.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

That filter setup looks like my old Rancher 55 I had, still looks like a rebadged 55 to me, which is fine as it was an excellent saw.

That saw right there is 100 0/0 POULAN.

 

[Modifiedmark]

So one of these yellow saws followed me home today. The only complaint is that the threads in the cylinder that hold the muffler not very clean.

I was getting ready to muff mod it and noticed a reducer inside the exhaust port. I have never seen this in a saw before and was wondering why it is there?
Should I remove it or leave it? For the muff mod I was thinking of removing the baffles and spark screen and leaving the stock exhaust outlet stock. Suggestions?

I wondered about that too. I have seen them in the little saws and trimmers and such.

 

[zr900]

Do you think I should leave it in? I see no advantages in leaving it in and right now it is out but I finished my muff mod to late to test it tonight.

 

[scootr]

Muffler

That piece inside the muffler keeps it from collapsing when you tighten it, best to keep it there.

Stock

 

[scootr]

Muff Mod

Here is how I modded mine. Tools need, A drill and drill bits. Runs strong.

[/IMG]

 

[Brmorgan]

That piece inside the muffler keeps it from collapsing when you tighten it, best to keep it there.

I believe he's referring to the little sleeve that's actually inside the exhaust port behind the muffler, not the muffler's internal stabilizer or whatever it's called. These seem to be common on a lot of Poulans and some of the small cheaper Huskies that aren't much more than re-badged Poulans. I have no idea what they're for, unless they use the same cylinder blocks for different bore sizes and use the sleeves to reduce the port size on smaller diameter examples. Anyone else have any ideas? I'll go take a pic of one if people don't know what I'm talking about.

Personally, I'd leave it in unless you're planning on doing a port job. Otherwise you'll have very distinct ridges in the exhaust port which could induce significant turbulence in the exhaust flow, which is the last thing you'd want. That little sleeve doesn't actually go in all the way to the cylinder wall, so removing it won't really gain you anything as far as the port size goes - it'll still be just as restricted at the cylinder as before. Also you'd then need to enlarge the muffler's opening to match the now larger exhaust port.

I would ultimately like to do a port job on my 335 since it just feels like it would really respond to one, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. The mod to the muffler's internal stabilizer is a good one since it can greatly streamline the exhaust flow, but I also simply left the spark screen off altogether for a bit more of a gain. I think you'll really like how these things sound with a modded muffler. I can only imagine a ported one.

 

[joecool85]

I finally got to run my 330 in the woods today. HOLY COW that thing cuts wood! It throws chips like nobody's business. I'm happy, I definitely have my firewood saw now :greenchainsaw:

 

[mowoodchopper]

New poulans a bargain ! :jawdrop:

 

[barneyrb]

I finally got to run my 330 in the woods today. HOLY COW that thing cuts wood! It throws chips like nobody's business. I'm happy, I definitely have my firewood saw now :greenchainsaw:

SSSSHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We don't want the secret getting out