Tree leaning, narrow landing zone

[TakeBack]

I will preface by saying I know very little about trees and have never handled a chainsaw....

I have a ~40' (???eyeball estimate) evergreen (fir?) which was recently damaged in the recent NW wind storm. It is partially uprooted and leaning at a 50-60 degree angle from horizontal, against an adjacent tree.

It is leaning along the back border of my property, with the neighboring house close to the fence line.

I would like to pull the tree inward onto my lawn, which has space, but this is pulling it from the natural direction it wants to fall (leaning towards 12 o'clock, want to pull it to 2-3 o'clock). If it falls it will likely damage the shed of a neighbor to the right, and perhaps the fence of the neighbor to the back.

I have two estimates so far, the charge to bring the tree to the ground (no cutting/disposal) around $600.

I plan to have some work colleagues who own a chainsaw and are handy with it to help me with the rest of the job.

I'm not opposed to hiring out the job if that's what's necessary, but I figured you all could tell if getting the tree to the ground is possible as a DIY job.

Thanks.....

I have tried to attach a photo, hopefully it comes through

 

[chowdozer]

Where is the shed? Behind the tree?

 

[sawinredneck]

Welcome to AS Takeback!

I would highly discourage you from dropping that tree. People very often ovelook the amount of weight in the tops of evergreens. I am assuming the house is just to the right of that tree, which is why it can't be felled in the direction of the lean. There is a HUGE risk of barberchair trying to forcefall it in the safe direction and the amount of force needed to move it just increases that factor. I would vote for climbing, topping and chinking down that tree. But as you say you have NO experiance with a saw, I would advise you from climbing with on!
I suggest you pay the $600 to get it on the ground, have you're coworkers come and help you chop it up and dispose of it. Have a BBQ, learn to handle a saw in company, nobody gets hurt and you can watch the pros and get some ideas for the next project. That tree is just to dangerous and you have no experiance, it's not worth getting hurt to save a buck, that tree scares me just looking at the pics!!!
Andy

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I will preface by saying I know very little about trees and have never handled a chainsaw....partially uprooted and leaning at a 50-60 degree angle from horizontal

This is all you had to say if you're thinking of using a saw. Leave it alone. Have someone who knows what they're doing take care of it for you. Even your buddies with the saws are likely not qualified, unless in fact they are specifically versed in tree care. But if they were, you likely wouldn't be asking us this question.

Damaged trees like this are the most dangerous. Leaning makes it worse. Lean like this is not your friend. You say it's leaning into another tree, but it's still got incredible amounts of weight on it. Depending on how much is supported by the other tree, it would likely call for a bore cut technique, which is not to be tried by someone who has never handled a saw, or even those without ample experience. That'd be best case. Without looking at it up close and the area around it, heck, it could call for rigging or even more highly specialized methods.

The barberchair Sawinredneck speaks of can kill a man. A tree like this can do all kinds of weird stuff to hurt a man.

Now.....if it's just hanging there like a loose tooth and ready to fall, and the roots are barely hanging on, it'd just be a matter of a capable rope, a come-along, and a good anchor to coax it in the right direction and onto the ground. Now saw required until it's on the ground, and safe.

Welcome to AS. Hope we didn't burst your bubble.

Are you in Seattle proper, or are you by chance on my side of the Sound?

Jeff

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Roger, I see you're reading this....whatdya think?

 

[rbtree]

$600 may be low for that. Can't tell for sure. Doesnt look that easy..or that hard...Email me if you want a pro to handle it....best to not tackle it yourself. but we're still rather swamped.

Jeff, whaddya think about guying it to the neighbors second story deck railing (the top of it for more height..should hold, eh??) then climb it to the tippy top......


...errr, nahhh.

To keep from damaging fences or landscape, I'd prolly work off an orchard ladder or extension, with a power pruner, then brace it with a couple 4x4's on a platform, and climb it....unless there's a suitable guy anchor out of the picture to the left.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

...but we're still rather swamped.

Which is why I didn't throw your name out there. Glad you saw it.

Jeff, whaddya think about guying it to the neighbors second story deck railing (the top of it for more height..should hold, eh??) then climb it to the tippy top......


...errr, nahhh.

Yeah....nahhhh.

 

[treeseer]

Homeowner should be able to save some by removing lower branches and getting them out of the way for the pros. Of course do NOT cut anything that is possibly supporting the tree. I agree with the rest, especially the naahh...:jester:

Just wondering--if that storm was sudden and unusual, are insurance companies covering any of the expenses or damages? Doesn't seem too different from hurricane tornado or shear winds, which are covered here on the right coast.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I must be looking at a different tree than the rest of you. It looks like you could cut about half the branches off by standing on the ground. Then if you had a pole saw, you could finish it off without steping foot off the ground.
I suspect about $580 of $600 of work is dragging the brush, chipping it, and hauling the chips away.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Probably true Mike, but what about the 40' tree at 50 degree part? You think a guy who's never handled a saw (or even his friends with saws) should tackle a leaner like this?

 

[Gologit]

Probably true Mike, but what about the 40' tree at 50 degree part? You think a guy who's never handled a saw (or even his friends with saws) should tackle a leaner like this?

No.

 

[TakeBack]

Thanks for all the prompt responses, guys.

There's no way I am planning on taking a saw to this tree before it comes down, and even then, having my coworker (who is not a pro but is capable w/ a chainsaw) dismember the tree after it gets to the ground. I'd like him to teach me the basics of using the saw.

The shed is to the right in the photo. The top of the tree would come down on it (I believe); not sure it would do real damage but why risk it.

Jeff- I'm in W. Seattle, directly across from the north point of Vashon...

Re: insurance, my insurance co. says that since the tree has not caused any damage, there is no coverage.

So is the consensus to delimb the lower portions which are not bracing the tree, and have a pro take it down? After that I'd like to cut it up (with help of course), rent a chipper and chip the branches (for mulch/compost) and use the larger sections for firewood....(not hardwood, but burnable?)


..and don't worry, bubble not burst! I was essentially looking to reinforce my idea that taking it down is likely NOT doable as a DIY...

thanks again....

 

[rb_in_va]

Thanks for all the prompt responses, guys.

There's no way I am planning on taking a saw to this tree before it comes down, and even then, having my coworker (who is not a pro but is capable w/ a chainsaw) dismember the tree after it gets to the ground. I'd like him to teach me the basics of using the saw.

The shed is to the right in the photo. The top of the tree would come down on it (I believe); not sure it would do real damage but why risk it.

Jeff- I'm in W. Seattle, directly across from the north point of Vashon...

Re: insurance, my insurance co. says that since the tree has not caused any damage, there is no coverage.

So is the consensus to delimb the lower portions which are not bracing the tree, and have a pro take it down? After that I'd like to cut it up (with help of course), rent a chipper and chip the branches (for mulch/compost) and use the larger sections for firewood....(not hardwood, but burnable?)


..and don't worry, bubble not burst! I was essentially looking to reinforce my idea that taking it down is likely NOT doable as a DIY...

thanks again....

Takeback,
Good to see a you've got good sense! Make sure the company that quoted $600 is insured.

 

[Quercus34]

That is not a DIY job. I did a lot of logging in the Adirondaks (NY) after a major storm several years ago that was all blowdowns or damaged trees. Uprooted trees like that can be very unpredictable and dangerous. I would strongly recommend hiring an insured tree service.

 

[treeseer]

"my insurance co. says that since the tree has not caused any damage, there is no coverage"

Your shed roof needs a thorough inspection. Get out the magnifying glass and look for buckling, scratches and stains.

I'm in good company with TreeCo Dan and Mike--learning to use a polesaw is a whole lot easier and safer and more effective than a chainsaw.

 

[coydog]

do have a tree or something solid to anchor it to on the other side of your yard? (from where the picture was taken?)

 

[rbtree]

I agree. A nice pole saw would do it. That tree is not that large or tall. I've got a Jameson sectional pole saw 8'+6'+6' that would get that tree down easily.

That's what I said last nite....power pruner though; mine is 11 feet long. With orchard kladder set in safe zone, easy to reach 22 feet or more up, then use a pole saw...then brace it if needed and climb.
20 feet of jameson is unwieldy... I hate using 3 sections. Silky Hayauchi works well, though, at 21 feet

 

[treeseer]

"Silky Hayauchi works well, though, at 21 feet"

Glad to hear this, Roger! I tried one out at TCI and just bought one. It gets delivered today. Can't wait to try it out!

Takeback, the message you are hearing is--start with safe tools that give you control, and save the chainsaw for felling by an experienced hand, and the final dismemberment. A polesaw is an extension of your arms. Stroking it is a natural, rhythmic motion, yielding satisfaction not unlike similar motions.

After cutting a limb with a polesaw--yes, you can cut large limbs with this tool, if you keep your blade sharp and straight--you can pulll the limb clear, all the while standing at a safe distance, then aim for the next. The power pruner is heavier, requiring you to sacrifice safety and strain your sinews. You must stand closer, so make sure that hard hat is snugly secured, and your face protected. It spews life-killing smoke and dust and oil and noise.

So does the chainsaw. The chainsaw is a WFD, a Weapon of Fast Destruction. It puts the user's face mere inches from effluent like carbon monoxide and other carcinogens, and sawdust coarse and particulate. Inhale it at your peril. Kickback can lobotomize and disfigure you permanently.

Once the log hits the ground, look to the chainsaw to carve it into something useful--landscape timbers, benches--before it is consigned to the woodpile. Find out what kind of tree it is, so you can put the wood to its highest use.

Hmm, what got into the coffee this morning?:blob6:

 

[rbtree]

The 21' Hayauchi is delicate, and features poorly designed detent clips and clamp adjusteres.....I hear they improved it a bit. I bought one early on and broke it right away...still sorta worked, finally toast now. Been meaning to get another and treat it with kid gloves. I'd still choose it over the new one as it is 1 lb heavier and $100 or so more. Gonna order one ASAP.

 

[(WLL)]

give this a go buddy

i would use a throw line toss it over the tree about a little more then center take a heavy bull rope like 3/4in or more no less tie a running bowline around the tree. make a bowline on a bight on the other end of the rope and hook it on a 4x4 truck by the trailor hitch. engage the 4x4 in low and just pull that sucker right into your yard by up rooting it. no climbing or cutting untill tree is down and in your yard. its as simple and safe as that and will cost much less than calling a tree company. no big deal no big bill