tree monkeys 2153 deluxe

[old-cat]

On a 357xp, I've heard people say with the high crankcase compression they are high RPM power but lack torque.
Could this be a good thing when hogging out transfers? If the pressure is there, why not get more volume through. When you're done maybe the velocity would end up near 346/2153 transfer velocity. This is why you stuff a crank in the first place, right?
Correct me if I'm wrong, just thoughts leaking out.

I'm working on a 357 now with two different approaches to performance enhancement. My first try was with the squish band cut and very moderate porting. It does NOT lack torque! In a 10.6 sec. cut stock, it is now 8.8 sec. Next I will do a pop-up approach then a timed cut then more radical porting.
Stay tuned.

 

[tree monkey]

 

[tree monkey]

stock saw and mod saw. 18" bars, 72d-25rs, wood is Norway pine. going to do a comparison vid in oak using 24" 3/8.

 

[tpope]

Wow

 

[drf255]

TM,

Sorry for the ignorance but I'm not understanding your timing numbers.

150ish exhaust opening with 118 transfers?

Doesn't that put BD at -32*?

I'm sure I'm not following your numbers correctly.

So, I'm currently working on a 026 PRO 44.7 mm.

My transfer roofs are angled upwards. I'm at 102/118/76 on the timing numbers.

Should I weld up the transfer tops with some 4043 and grind them flat in your opinion?

No boost ports on this one. Would you add fingers or bridges?

Thanks.

 

[lovetheoutdoors]

Awesome thread awesome build and awesome videos! Thanks for the time and knowledge shared on this.

 

[mdavlee]

TM,

Sorry for the ignorance but I'm not understanding your timing numbers.

150ish exhaust opening with 118 transfers?

Doesn't that put BD at -32*?

I'm sure I'm not following your numbers correctly.

So, I'm currently working on a 026 PRO 44.7 mm.

My transfer roofs are angled upwards. I'm at 102/118/76 on the timing numbers.

Should I weld up the transfer tops with some 4043 and grind them flat in your opinion?

No boost ports on this one. Would you add fingers or bridges?

Thanks.

Those are durations. These are the port openings
103
121

 

[tree monkey]

TM,

Sorry for the ignorance but I'm not understanding your timing numbers.

150ish exhaust opening with 118 transfers?

Doesn't that put BD at -32*?

I'm sure I'm not following your numbers correctly.

So, I'm currently working on a 026 PRO 44.7 mm.

My transfer roofs are angled upwards. I'm at 102/118/76 on the timing numbers.

Should I weld up the transfer tops with some 4043 and grind them flat in your opinion?

No boost ports on this one. Would you add fingers or bridges?

Thanks.

my port numbers are in duration, the number of degrees the port is open. 150* exhaust dur is the same as 105* from tdc. 150* intake dur is the same as 75* from bdc. 118* transfer is 121* from tdc. blow down is 16*

 

[drf255]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[tree monkey]

time for an update





I made a lite bar. 18" 325 total super . only comes in .058. put it in the hammer mill and regrooved it to .050 to use 20jp.
going to do a 20" the same.

I've been using the saw pretty steady the last couple of weeks, felling and liming red and white oak. it's not a ported 440, but it will cut with a stock 440. so far i'm very happy with the saw. seems to be easy of fuel as well.

 

[CR888]

Nice light bars, l have always wanted to do that to a total.

 

[sunfish]

Ported Bars? Cool!

 

[RiverRat2]

time for an update



I made a lite bar. 18" 325 total super . only comes in .058. put it in the hammer mill and regrooved it to .050 to use 20jp.
going to do a 20" the same.

I've been using the saw pretty steady the last couple of weeks, felling and liming red and white oak. it's not a ported 440, but it will cut with a stock 440. so far i'm very happy with the saw. seems to be easy of fuel as well.

Hey Scott, what are you using to fill the lightend area, Epoxy?

 

[HuskStihl]

Knowing monkeys, I'm betting JB weld

 

[blsnelling]

Very creative there Scott. What are you using to re-groove the rails?

 

[SawTroll]

Nice light bars, l have always wanted to do that to a total.

Get a Tsumura Light and Tough then, the Totals are Tsumura bars.

 

[tree monkey]

Very creative there Scott. What are you using to re-groove the rails?

bar shop

 

[tree monkey]

http://bid.hansenandyoung.com/view-...auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F5840%2F%3Fpage%3D13

barshop

 

[tree monkey]

Hey Scott, what are you using to fill the lightend area, Epoxy?

Knowing monkeys, I'm betting JB weld

monkey poo

 

[CR888]

Get a Tsumura Light and Tough then, the Totals are Tsumura bars.

Yeah but Totals are cheaper and the 'light n tough' is tough but not exactly light. Treemonkey has not skimped on removing the wieght, for the same reason l would start with a Total as the blank. l know they would not be as sturdy, but certainly light. Its a compromise Tsumura won't make, but an enthusiast will.