Wet1
Addicted to ArboristSite
^ Good info on carb adjustment, thanks for posting that. 
Tuning a MS-361..?
- Thread starter Dennis_Peacock
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Dennis_Peacock
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like I dang near started a war between folks with my question. Sorry about that. I was just looking to learn how to make my saw run better both in and out of the cut.
I just don't understand why it's such a "big deal" with some when a question is asked about "a saw" and others on jump in because it's not their "brand" of saw. What difference does that make?? I guess I need to be more careful about what I ask when it comes to saw adjustments on "some brands". Sheesh!!!!
I just don't understand why it's such a "big deal" with some when a question is asked about "a saw" and others on jump in because it's not their "brand" of saw. What difference does that make?? I guess I need to be more careful about what I ask when it comes to saw adjustments on "some brands". Sheesh!!!!
Dennis_Peacock
ArboristSite Operative
Hey NDTreeHugger......many thanks for the excellent info.!!!!!
I'll give that a try next week.
I'll give that a try next week.
Nothing for you to be careful about. Trolls will be trolls.
Dennis_Peacock
ArboristSite Operative
Ok...I've read the PDF file. I'll just be stupid and ask....Will I need to remove the limiter caps? If so, do I have to put new caps on?
I know...so many questions and so little time.
I know...so many questions and so little time.
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok...I've read the PDF file. I'll just be stupid and ask....Will I need to remove the limiter caps? If so, do I have to put new caps on?
I know...so many questions and so little time.
You know, someone may come along behind me a correct this, but I think if you put a tach on it and CAN tune it to 14K, then there would be no reason to remove the limiter caps. But maybe that's not possible without removing. But, the thing is, you really need the tach if you want peak rpms. I can comfortably tune any of my saws by ear...except the 361. So, without a tach, I probably run it too rich. But I'd rather sacrifice a few RPM's than burn up the saw. I know, I know...just go out and get a tach, litefoot.
NDtreehugger
ArboristSite Guru
Ok...I've read the PDF file. I'll just be stupid and ask....Will I need to remove the limiter caps? If so, do I have to put new caps on?
I know...so many questions and so little time.
Standard setting caps must not be removed NO
Basic setting the caps have to be removed YES
Read again this time slow down a bit
slap,, bang,,, ruler on the desk pay attention Boy.
sorry if i came accross as an ahole Dennis,
you will find that if you dont conform to the stihlist way of thinking you will be called a troll, myself and NDtreehugger included.
blackballed by some b!shes.
like i give a rats...
actually i have caught hell because they feel you lack sufficient intelligence to realize the saw i posted the pick of the tach was not stock.
Dennis_Peacock
ArboristSite Operative
Well, all I can say is that I get a lot of good help, advice, and even new friends here on AS. I come here to learn and not to fight about who's saw brand is the best.
In my book? If you have, care for, properly service and tune a saw of ANY manufacturer? Then that is a good saw for what you intended to use it for.
I've been through several saws and I chose a Stihl because I did not like the way other saws felt in my hands. One of these days my little Poulan saw will crap out and then I'll buy me a small Husky-varnee saw to help broaden my chainsaw horizons.
Peace and goodwill to ALL men.
In my book? If you have, care for, properly service and tune a saw of ANY manufacturer? Then that is a good saw for what you intended to use it for.
I've been through several saws and I chose a Stihl because I did not like the way other saws felt in my hands. One of these days my little Poulan saw will crap out and then I'll buy me a small Husky-varnee saw to help broaden my chainsaw horizons.
Peace and goodwill to ALL men.
"Application of the term troll is highly subjective. Some readers may characterize a post as trolling, while others may regard the same post as a legitimate contribution to the discussion, even if controversial. The term is often used to discredit an opposing position, or its proponent, by argument fallacy ad hominem."
:agree2:
:agree2:
SawTroll
Information Collector
Ok...I've read the PDF file. I'll just be stupid and ask....Will I need to remove the limiter caps? If so, do I have to put new caps on?
I know...so many questions and so little time.
That PDF is based on a saw with the limiters in the original position - if you deactivate them it is a bit simpler......
SawTroll
Information Collector
:agree2:
SawTroll
Information Collector
:agree2:
NDtreehugger
ArboristSite Guru
What? No videos?
if you insist.
this one goes out to all my Playa' haters.
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LMptFT_0tHk"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LMptFT_0tHk" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>
SawTroll
Information Collector
You are not a troll, as far as I know - just stirring the pot a bit now and then.........:greenchainsaw:
1rockinacman
ArboristSite Operative
Dam, if posting something that drops the N word about 30 times doesn't get you banned for life what does? Makes GYPO look like an Angel!
Yup...that wasn't a good thing to do.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Another great contribution!
Gary
Gary
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