Upper Michigan (UP) two saw plan

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johnsayen

ArboristSite Operative
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So it’s mostly hardwood that we harvest up here for firewood, with the occasional cedar for kindling. A lot of it is dead or near dead at the time of felling. Not always but a lot of the time. I’m decently experienced at bucking but have very little experience felling. Been watching a lot of training and reading a book, but also going to ask someone in person for some felling training.
Started with an ms251, upgraded to a 261, and am now contemplating a second saw as I intend to process 5 cord a year in firewood for our new wood burner.

most people have recommend a 462, one person a 400, and another a 500i.
I have a 16” bar on my 261(also have a 20 for it, might get an 18 too) and intend to run a 20” on the second saw (with either a 25 or 28 second bar).

I don’t want to suffer from the upgrade game a second time, hopefully a buy once cry once sort of thing.
Which second saw would you recommend given all of the above?
 
How old are you and how good is your back?

Reason I ask is if you are older or have back issues you will want something like a 30" bar for limbing so you dont have to crouch as much.

As for your main saw, something that easily pulls a bar at least 4-6" larger than your average tree size.
 
How old are you and how good is your back?

Reason I ask is if you are older or have back issues you will want something like a 30" bar for limbing so you dont have to crouch as much.

As for your main saw, something that easily pulls a bar at least 4-6" larger than your average tree size.
Nearly 40 with what I’d call an average back. Here’s a link to my introduction post with a bunch more info if you’re interested https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/introduction-and-feedback-desired.347438/
 
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Depends on how big in diameter the wood you will be cutting. If you’re cutting 30” plus logs get a 661 or 500i if you’ll be under 30” the 462 skull do you fine.
Why 3 different bars for your 261? I got an 18” and no reason to have another.
It came with a 20” which felt pretty long so I got a 16 based on reading threads here and while it runs great, feels a little nose light. Considering an 18 for that. I really don’t see getting into a 30” log as I’ll still need to split it after cutting. Part of the reason I’m looking at the new 400 too. But don’t want to get the 400 and then immediately wish I had the 462.
 
Don’t be afraid if splitting big (30”+) rounds. They aren’t any harder to split than smaller rounds. Just start from the outside and split with the growth rings taking a 2-3” with each strike. I’ll see if I can find a video on you tube.
 
Don’t be afraid if splitting big (30”+) rounds. They aren’t any harder to split than smaller rounds. Just start from the outside and split with the growth rings taking a 2-3” with each strike. I’ll see if I can find a video on you tube.
Its hardwood, if your doing it by hand it's a splitting maul all the way ... after you learn how to swing it by making the maul do the work.
 
Here’s the best video I could find


Holy cow, I can’t believe how many crappy wood spitting videos there are! Most of them are complete crap!
The one I shared is not bad, I never figured out the wrist flinging thing and don’t really think it helps.

if you get a Fiskars splitting axe and ISOCORE maul you should have no problem unless the wood is really knotty . In that case don’t waste your time after 4-5 swings
 
If you’ve got a lot of bigger wood sizing up to a 90cc saw is a good idea, if it’s wood under 24 inches I’d run a combo 60 and 70cc saw. I’ve got a lot of saws and I use an ms361 and an ms460 for 95% of what I cut. The problem is the outlier big wood that these saws won’t cut efficiently. You have to weigh the weight of the saws you’re lugging around vs efficiency. I have an 084 for big stuff but wouldn’t want that to be part of a 2 saw plan.
 
Thanks,
Here’s the best video I could find


Holy cow, I can’t believe how many crappy wood spitting videos there are! Most of them are complete crap!
The one I shared is not bad, I never figured out the wrist flinging thing and don’t really think it helps.

if you get a Fiskars splitting axe and ISOCORE maul you should have no problem unless the wood is really knotty . In that case don’t waste your time after 4-5 swings

Don’t be afraid if splitting big (30”+) rounds. They aren’t any harder to split than smaller rounds. Just start from the outside and split with the growth rings taking a 2-3” with each strike. I’ll see if I can find a video on you tube.
Thanks all for the splitting advice. It’s not that I can’t split the big ones, i grew up swinging a maul, it’s that my typical process (right or wrong) is to buck in the woods, haul it home, and split next to the pile. Loading the big dogs in the back of the truck sounds like the opposite of fun to me. Plus then I won’t need a 90cc saw :)
 
I cut about the same wood as what you explained. I have a ported husky 254 and a ported 372 and do just fine with them I'm sure the 462 would be perfect for what your doing
 

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