Used Saw Buying Pointers

[roo_ster]

Howdy:

QUESTION

Looking for some general pointers when buying used chain saws.

Something like:
1. Makes/models to avoid
2. Parts availability
3. Ease of maintenance & repair
4. I am sure I am missing something saw-particular.

As far as size-wise, interested in everything from handy little saws a climber would take in the tree up to something that might run a 36"-48" bar & chain. At the end of it all, will likely end up with a couple saws, one for big jobs and another for smaller jobs.

Thanks for any pointers.

BACKGROUND

My boy was born again mechanical a couple years back (13YO now) and can't get enough. He's now up on general automobile care and I am looking for an old pickup to buy to keep him in wrenches, off the streets, and off the computer. Until I find the right old pickup, I figure he can wrench on some chain saws and 2-stroke motors this fall & winter.

We also bought and fixed up several used mowers and learned a lot:
1. Briggs and Stratton motors for the win (parts availability, documentation, quality)
2. Avoid Tecumseh
3. Craftsman mowers aren't great (aside from B&S motor)...but you can get parts
4. Snapper rear engine riders are nifty and can be rebuilt from the ground up

We are not looking to make any money off this by flipping other than to recoup money on saws we have replaced with nicer/niftier saws we like better.

FTR, I did residential tree removal over the summers in high school and college from age 15 to 22. A local tree removal company owner/climber liked the way I worked and he was a wonder up in the tree. He was glad to see me every year come June. We used only Jonsereds, plus this was back in the late 1980s, early 1990s, so I know diddly about saw makes/models nowadays, except I recall how to maintain them. The owner/climber like the smaller Jonsereds, I liked bigger saws. His big Jonsered could run a 36" or bigger bar & chain no sweat, but I usually ran it with a 24" to limb & log out the tree.

Were it not for my son's mechanical bug, I would just rent the best-looking Makita from Home Depot to get my cutting done for the house, church, or school like I have up to now.

 

[cuinrearview]

Avoid Stihls

 

[Huskybill]

I built a log splitter using a new cheapest b&s engine with the aluminum cylinder. I was told it wouldn’t last a year. It was 25 years still running when I sold it. I always changed the oil and put left over two stroke mix in it. B&S engines rock that 8 hp went through hell.

Any Husqvarna 266, 268, 162, 262 are the best there ever was in this size saw.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Get him involved with build-offs like the ones at Randy's gtg's, or maybe just racing saws in general. There must be some sort of reward for a young fella or boredom will set in and interest will shift. Some colleges offer forestry programs which include timber sports events. Oregon State is one I know of.

 

[Huskybill]

In a short time you will lose him to girls. My son was a very good harescramble/ motocross rider till the skirts came along. Too bad he was really good. Boredom means he hasn’t seen girls yet. Lol

 

[dmb2613]

Stihl parts are EZer to find. Don't pay a lot for parts saws, worry more about what the piston looks like than the general appearance of the saw. Above all know who you are buying from if you are buying higher dollar saws. One mans good is in no way the same good as another's

 

[1Alpha1]

No matter the brand or model, it's all about CONDITION.........all day long.

If it looks as if it's been well taken care of, there's a damn good chance it has.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Don't forget guys, the kid is 13. If he is buying the parts with his $$, he will be on a budget.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Howdy:

QUESTION

Looking for some general pointers when buying used chain saws.

Something like:
1. Makes/models to avoid
2. Parts availability
3. Ease of maintenance & repair
4. I am sure I am missing something saw-particular.

As far as size-wise, interested in everything from handy little saws a climber would take in the tree up to something that might run a 36"-48" bar & chain. At the end of it all, will likely end up with a couple saws, one for big jobs and another for smaller jobs.

Thanks for any pointers.

BACKGROUND

My boy was born again mechanical a couple years back (13YO now) and can't get enough. He's now up on general automobile care and I am looking for an old pickup to buy to keep him in wrenches, off the streets, and off the computer. Until I find the right old pickup, I figure he can wrench on some chain saws and 2-stroke motors this fall & winter.

We also bought and fixed up several used mowers and learned a lot:
1. Briggs and Stratton motors for the win (parts availability, documentation, quality)
2. Avoid Tecumseh
3. Craftsman mowers aren't great (aside from B&S motor)...but you can get parts
4. Snapper rear engine riders are nifty and can be rebuilt from the ground up

We are not looking to make any money off this by flipping other than to recoup money on saws we have replaced with nicer/niftier saws we like better.

FTR, I did residential tree removal over the summers in high school and college from age 15 to 22. A local tree removal company owner/climber liked the way I worked and he was a wonder up in the tree. He was glad to see me every year come June. We used only Jonsereds, plus this was back in the late 1980s, early 1990s, so I know diddly about saw makes/models nowadays, except I recall how to maintain them. The owner/climber like the smaller Jonsereds, I liked bigger saws. His big Jonsered could run a 36" or bigger bar & chain no sweat, but I usually ran it with a 24" to limb & log out the tree.

Were it not for my son's mechanical bug, I would just rent the best-looking Makita from Home Depot to get my cutting done for the house, church, or school like I have up to now.

Whatever saws you pick, go to the Beg for Manuals thread to get IPL (Illustrated Parts List) and shop repair manual. Get some basic tools. If Stihl, Torx, T 27 etc. A MityVac Elite and learn to do pressure and vac tests. Donyboy 73 on YouTube has some really good vids.. This forum is a great resource for help, advice, parts, and many oil opinions.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[ken morgan]

Husky/Jonesred is easier to get parts for online...stihl parts are expensive. I honestly would buy one of the 365/372 clone kits for 200 off of ebay get the IPL and let him build one from scratch. lots of threads on this forum that cover that and it would be a good learning experience at a reasonable price. once he has that all sorted out and running right you can look at buying used saws for rebuild that are worth more. and the great thing is the OEM husky parts will swap right in.

 

[ken morgan]

here is an actual 365Xp that needs work... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-365-project-saw.324411/

 

[Mad Professor]

Avoid Stihls

And Huskavarmits

 

[cuinrearview]

And Huskavarmits

I have some of both around right now, but if you're going to be keeping them the red ones are where it's at

 

[Little Al]

No matter the brand or model, it's all about CONDITION.........all day long.

If it looks as if it's been well taken care of, there's a damn good chance it has.

This could well be true but what about an ex commercial outfits saw cowlings look beat to death but mechanically & performance wise It runs like a new saw Don't discount it cos it looks beat up

 

[Mad Professor]

Look into late 80s early 90s "pro" model saws. I'd avoid any "clamshells" designs. That vintage will be easy to work on, have simple carbs that you can tune/rebuild (before limiter caps) and still have decent parts availability. Will also have to invest in tools for the saw and to keep the chains sharp. If you have decent metric mechanic tools you'll already have most of the stuff. But might want to get a flywheel puller, comp gauge, good long t-27 torx driver, and a mightyvac.

You son will probably want to run the saw(s) so something not too big, yet. 50-60cc. If you can find a complete saw that was straight gassed.

I like Stihls so will suggest an 026 or 036. 028 supers are also a good choice but parts are starting to dry up a bit.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Older Poulan saws are nice to work on and project saws are readily available at good prices. Poulan rebagged for numerous vendors, and no one wants a project saw from "Bob's Mower Shop". I mean seriously, where are you going to find parts for that thing??? BUT, you know that the "Bob's Mower Shop" saw is really a rebagged Poulan and the seller doesn't - SCORE!

Most parts are still available as NOS, but not super expensive.

I rebuilt a Poulan 245SA (branded as Dayton) this past summer. Other than the fact that it is a 3D jigsaw puzzle, it was quite nice to work on. Not a metric anything anywhere on the saw.

I just picked up a Poulan 2000 (rebranded as Craftsman) from eBay. This one only needed crank seals and a recoil spring.

I got the majority of the parts I needed for both saws from @Acornhill.

IMHO - If you pick up a points ignition saw to work on, dump them and replace them with the Oregon electronic ignition module (unless you want to teach the kid how to work on points).

 

[svk]

Best advice I can give is look for larger CC models (50 cc and up) from Husky and Stihl. Good "families" are Husky 50/51/55, 346/350, 61/266/268/272, 262, and 365/372

You are going to need a few parts and they pretty much cost the same but a running Stihl or Husky is going to be worth a lot more than an off brand or smaller cc saw.

 

[roo_ster]

All:

Thank you all for your time and for sharing your experience. Looking forward to haunting CL and kicking this off.

I built a log splitter using a new cheapest b&s engine with the aluminum cylinder. I was told it wouldn’t last a year. It was 25 years still running when I sold it. I always changed the oil and put left over two stroke mix in it. B&S engines rock that 8 hp went through hell.

Any Husqvarna 266, 268, 162, 262 are the best there ever was in this size saw...

...In a short time you will lose him to girls.

B&S, if maintained, generally will outlast most mowers they are attached to. I keep thinking I will upgrade the 9HP B&S on the Snapper rear engine rider we refurbed, but it still runs great and parts are cheap.

As for him spending his time chasing skirts, maybe so.

Get him involved with build-offs like the ones at Randy's gtg's, or maybe just racing saws in general...

Had not thought of that. Will check it out.

Stihl parts are EZer to find. Don't pay a lot for parts saws...

Good to know about Sthi parts availability. Don't worry about me throwing money about willy-nilly. I am a patient man and am not hot & bothered over any particular saw.

No matter the brand or model, it's all about CONDITION.........all day long.

If it looks as if it's been well taken care of, there's a damn good chance it has.

Indeed, just like a used car.

Don't forget guys, the kid is 13. If he is buying the parts with his $$, he will be on a budget.

For these sorts of things, I help out on the front end to get it started. OTOH, my kiddos don't get allowance, but I do pay them for helping me out around the house with tough(er) jobs. Kind of an underhanded way to teach them useful skills.

Whatever saws you pick, go to the Beg for Manuals thread to get IPL (Illustrated Parts List) and shop repair manual. Get some basic tools...

Oh, yes, documentation is helpful. Have most the usual tools for general home & auto and light gun smithing. A compression testing kit is on order. Already have a sharpening kit for my pole saw attachment to my weed whacker power head.

Husky/Jonesred is easier to get parts for online...stihl parts are expensive...

I am getting the notion that Stihl, Husqvarna, and Jonsered are the no-brainer brands.

Look into late 80s early 90s "pro" model saws. I'd avoid any "clamshells" designs. That vintage will be easy to work on...You son will probably want to run the saw(s) so something not too big, yet. 50-60cc...

I like Stihls so will suggest an 026 or 036.

Had to look up "clamshell" design. Thanks.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/what-is-a-clamshell-design.253322/
Yep, we'll definitely want a smaller saw in the mix.

est advice I can give is look for larger CC models (50 cc and up) from Husky and Stihl. Good "families" are Husky 50/51/55, 346/350, 61/266/268/272, 262, and 365/372

Roger that.


==================================

LIST OF SAW MAKES/MODELS SUGGESTED THUS FAR
MAKES
Stihl
Husqvarna
Jonsered (same as Husq after a certain year)

MODELS
Husqvarna 266, 268, 162, 262 , 50/51/55, 346/350, 61/266/268/272, 262, and 365/372
Stihl 026 036

 

[flyinfinn]

If your son plans on operating the saw, I would keep it fairly small until he learns how to safety operate. Look at 50cc saws with a 16” bar and safety “low-kick back” chain. You would be surprised how capable a 50cc is! I just used my old Husqvarna 50 to go break trail. It included dropping larger diameter birch, poplar (aspen), and spruce. Very capable!

I would say any Husqvarna, Jonsered, or Stihl around 50cc is good. I agree, older “pro” models would be best. After your son gets used to it, a good “two saw” plan is a 50cc saw and a 70cc saw (I love my 371XP)