Venting Free Standing Stove into Zero Clearance Fireplace

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wkpoor

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I would like a consensus about venting a stove inyo a zero clearance fireplace that the chimney has been lined. According to my local dealer no stove mfg would allow this. What I can't understand is I am allowed to put in an insert into the opening and vent it there. I can't understand why a stove out front with just the pipe going into the fireplace wouldn't be a very safe setup. To me even safer than the insert. The chimney is currently double walled air insulated and I plan on lining it.
 
You would only be "allowed" to use an insert if you ran a liner from the insert to the top of your chimney.I used a Jotul in front of a zero clearance fireplace using 6" flex.Since the existing chimney was 9", it went in easily.If, by chance, the existing chimney is the same size as the stove/insert flue I think you could get by with a thimble connecting the two.I doubt you'll get this lucky, but whatever you plan to use will work better with a sized liner.
 
You would only be "allowed" to use an insert if you ran a liner from the insert to the top of your chimney
Absolutely plan on that. But the dealer said I wouldn't be allowed to connect a pipe from a free standing to the liner. I just can't figure that one. How can that not be OK but hooking up an insert to the same pipe is OK?
 
Absolutely plan on that. But the dealer said I wouldn't be allowed to connect a pipe from a free standing to the liner. I just can't figure that one. How can that not be OK but hooking up an insert to the same pipe is OK?

You mean a stove setting on the hearth(hearth stove), vented into the zero clearance stack? Not a problem, unless your local codes say otherwise. How do I know? We installed many, many hearthstoves and vented into zero clearance. Here's the problem though-zero clearance units are tested and rated for their original intent/function. They don't and can't test for all the potential install config's that could theoretically arise. So the bottom line is go with your local codes. These days with lawsuits and all it's no surprise to me anyway that things that make sense are no longer allowed. It's CYA. Having said that a freestanding unit with it's own pipe is the best way to go as it is easier to clean because you don't have to take things apart. I don't see any problem, however, with venting into a zero clearance stack though. Again, go with the local codes and the manufacturers listed clearances of the units involved.
 
I would like a consensus about venting a stove inyo a zero clearance fireplace that the chimney has been lined. According to my local dealer no stove mfg would allow this. What I can't understand is I am allowed to put in an insert into the opening and vent it there. I can't understand why a stove out front with just the pipe going into the fireplace wouldn't be a very safe setup. To me even safer than the insert. The chimney is currently double walled air insulated and I plan on lining it.

Bill, I re-read your post.What do you mean by "lined"? Are they telling you that you can't vent your stove, through a liner, up the chimney?What is the diameter of the existing pipe?Best case scenario is that it is large enough to put insulated flex liner all the way up to the top, but surely it is safe enough even without the insulation.I think there has to be some mis-communication;I know they will never allow you to go , say, 6" to 9" by means of a connector, but what you want to do is safe and allowable IMO.
 
Your still mis interpreting my post. I know I have to line the existing chimney. They say I can't hook a free standing vent pipe to the liner through the zero clearance fireplace opening. But yet I can hook up a wood burning insert to the same liner. The existing chimney is a double walled ss air cooled 8" pipe. After lining with a 6" wrapped liner I will have a triple wall chimney pipe with air cool and insulation. To me thats alot of protection. But the stinger is they won't let me connect to a stove in the fireplace opening.
Back to my original question now. How can a wood fired insert be any different than a free standing stove on the same chimney.
 
Sounds like the fact that you can see the connection when you use a stove rather than an insert is the deciding factor.This is idiotic reasoning, and I wonder if you would get the same answer from another stove dealer.FWIW,I used my stove this way for two seasons, probably 12-15 cords of Oak went through it.I connected via a clean-out tee, which I am pretty sure never got as hot as the open fire that used to burn there. I like to follow the rules, generally, but I'd do as you see fit in this case.
 
Yeh I'm going to visit another dealer this week and see what his thoughts are. In the end my thoughts are it would have to be alright. Just as you said how can a pipe be any hotter in that opening than the open flame that it was designed for.
 
Well if we did insert we like the Napoleon but those are real expensive and finding a used one to fit a zero clearance factory built FP in the size we need might prove all but impossible. I like the idea of a free standing stove and that will leave our options wide open then. At least more open.We only need a very small one in the great room as our main heat is the Nashua down stairs. This would just add a little more comfort to the 3rd floor in bitter cold days.
 
I think a stove is easier to load and clean and they give off more heat.It seems the limiting factor for you will be the height Jotuls are nice for this, as they can be vented vertically or horizontally.They also have a short-leg kit for a fireplace application.I have a Nordic, an Oslo and a Firelight (not all currently in use)The smallest, the Nordic, was what I used in front of the zero clearance.It fit beautifully, but was limited to 14" logs, was front load only and had no ash drawer.Probably not a deal killer in the situation you describe, but not very handy for a full time burner .
 
The current FP is off the floor about 12" at the bottom. I'm guessing I would have a range of height between 16-30" for the pipe. As for no ash pan I never operated at stove that had one and we burn full time Nov-March. Was never an issue. Besides this will not be as demanding as the main stove downstairs so I'm not going to be picky about some details.
BTW I talked to another dealer today and they agree with me that a free standing unit in front of the FBZC should not be a problem. So now the next issue is the floor. I would like to make the area under the stove flush with the existing hardwood. I'm told there is a special material that goes under the cement board.
 

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