promac850
formerly promac610
I agree, heat it up, make it straight again, and if the cracks are bad enough, maybe have them wekded, and the welds ground down, then the rod shot peened. I have heard of people doing this with connecting rods before.
Wha's wrong with this picture, guess the saw.
- Thread starter MnSam
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I agree, heat it up, make it straight again, and if the cracks are bad enough, maybe have them wekded, and the welds ground down, then the rod shot peened. I have heard of people doing this with connecting rods before.
Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
Looks like you could run over a couple Beer Cans with the truck and Stamp one out:hmm3grin2orange:
But Really, Whats the Cause? Too much Compression? Does it happen Gradually or "Doink" it's bent? (a real rod would have made a more Manly sound Like "Bang"....That Lil Guy just gets a "Doink"
)
But Really, Whats the Cause? Too much Compression? Does it happen Gradually or "Doink" it's bent? (a real rod would have made a more Manly sound Like "Bang"....That Lil Guy just gets a "Doink"
)
Knuckles
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like you could run over a couple Beer Cans with the truck and Stamp one out:hmm3grin2orange:
But Really, Whats the Cause? Too much Compression? Does it happen Gradually or "Doink" it's bent? (a real rod would have made a more Manly sound Like "Bang"....That Lil Guy just gets a "Doink"
Looks like you could run over a couple Beer Cans with the truck and Stamp one out:hmm3grin2orange:
But Really, Whats the Cause? Too much Compression? Does it happen Gradually or "Doink" it's bent? (a real rod would have made a more Manly sound Like "Bang"....That Lil Guy just gets a "Doink"
Rope in the combustion chamber for a piston stop to take the clutch off, just didn't have it close enough to top of the stroke and created too much pressure on that little rod.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
:deadhorse:
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Hey Jerry, you're beatin' that horse pretty much at bottom dead center. Careful, or you're going to have a bent rod too.
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Saw Dr.
That response made me chuckle. I'll do what I can to remember that this topic is the quick way to your hot button. I'm working on an outline for a rope/bent rod thread that I'll start in about a year.
Cheers!
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
put everything in a box and send it to me, ill straighten the rod out and put her back together. It'll make my nephews first stihl, get that pos poulan/crapsman out of his hands. Im serious, ill even cover shipping. If you are serious PM me. But oh yeah Im reading this late, you probably already got a stuffed Mail Box with guys wanting that little basket case.
So were is ideal piston position for the old rope trick? I've always put it near the top above the transfers.
cuttingintime
ArboristSite Guru
I don't know but I might mix blue pill with gas and see if it will straiten out.
David (saltas)
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have never made a con-rod
"Irvings tuning for speed" has a couple of con-rod designs that you could make. It has the grades of metal to use and the technique.
It is an old book by now so some of the "grades" might be known by other names now.
Check out the local libary it was mostly aimed at what are now vintage motorbikes.
"Irvings tuning for speed" has a couple of con-rod designs that you could make. It has the grades of metal to use and the technique.
It is an old book by now so some of the "grades" might be known by other names now.
Check out the local libary it was mostly aimed at what are now vintage motorbikes.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
This actually started out in the Milling Forum and then I took the saw apart
Previous post:
Log wizard on Stihl MS180
Can the log wizard be used on the Stihl MS 180? What can I do to keep the saw from burning out? My wife is cleaning some cedar logs and the saw gets hot and quits running. We usually run 40:1 (Stihl requirement is 50:1) with premium gas but switched to 25:1 will that help or hurt the motor?
Unfortunately that is the only saw my wife can start. We are using the logs whole for a pole barn and don't have the option to wait until Spring when freshly cut life cedar is easy to peel. We are using dead standing and fallen trees.
It is a MS 180 CB, not electric, runs on gas. Displacement 31.8cc,
it is an occasional use saw. The wife has been cutting smaller cedars and oaks and debranching etc. for 2 years without problems.
It runs the wizard but suddenly has a really hard time starting. Once it runs on full throttle it does fine but when you let it go down to idle it dies and then doesn't want to start again. Acts as if it is flooded.
I'll go out later and clean her up put fresh gas in with less oil etc. and see what happens.
Well, Ive cleaned everything up and didn't see anything suspicious. However, I heard a hissing sound where the fuel hose goes into the tank. I turned the saw upside down and it seems to leak gas somewhere in that area. So I guess I will be taking everything apart to see what's going on and also check the crank seal.
The hissing sound comes from the little valve on top of the gas tank and when the saw is sideways it leaks.
Now I still haven't figured out why the saw doesn't want to start or run in idle
I'll have to order a new piston. Is there anything else I need to replace?
In the meantime is there another easy to start saw that I could get for my wife?
Reading the above thread will get you going in the right direction...
