What bar for stumpin'?

[Sawin]

I will be cutting off perhaps as many as 2-300 Pine stumps.

I have a Dolmar 7900, and want to use it with a 24' bar. 050/3/8 Semi-chisel chain.

Over the years have cut off quite a few stumps. Always used what was in my hand at the moment.

I do want these stumps pretty flush with the ground. I will be carefull and will take the time to clean/dig some some around the stump and then let the winter/spring weather clean some more before I slice and dice them. I usually don't get into too much dirt.

Are there any reasons that one bar might be superior to another?

Thanks!

 

[ciscoguy01]

Gb

I got a GB Titanium and swear by'em now. I use a 24" on my 7900 and it's strong. The extra Titanium in the GB bars makes them more durable, i.e. the extra sand and whatnot your going to get in the groove and the extra wear from the weight of the stump itself sitting on the bar while your cutting it. I'd take'm over anything out there. My .02

Cheers
Dude

 

[fuzzle]

I will be cutting off perhaps as many as 2-300 Pine stumps.

I have a Dolmar 7900, and want to use it with a 24' bar. 050/3/8 Semi-chisel chain.

Over the years have cut off quite a few stumps. Always used what was in my hand at the moment.

I do want these stumps pretty flush with the ground. I will be carefull and will take the time to clean/dig some some around the stump and then let the winter/spring weather clean some more before I slice and dice them. I usually don't get into too much dirt.

Are there any reasons that one bar might be superior to another?

Thanks!

With a 24 foot bar, you could darn near stand in the next county!

 

[GASoline71]

Hard nose bars are designed for cuttin' in dirty conditions... but I cut stumps all the time with whatever bar I have on the saw with no problems. I use Stihl ES roller tips mostly. Also use Oregon Powermatch, and Windsor Speed-tips. They are all roller nose bars that have worked fine for me.

Gary

 

[Sawin]

With a 24 foot bar, you could darn near stand in the next county!

Yeah, and when finished with stumpin', I'm gonna use it for climbing, and limbing.:crazy1:

 

[bcorradi]

Hard nose bars are designed for cuttin' in dirty conditions... but I cut stumps all the time with whatever bar I have on the saw with no problems. I use Stihl ES roller tips mostly. Also use Oregon Powermatch, and Windsor Speed-tips. They are all roller nose bars that have worked fine for me.

Gary

My buddy who owns a saw shop down in TN says that most of the loggers down there use hard nose bars. They claim its harder to kick the chain off a hardnose bar vs the roller nose. I don't have any experience with hardnose bars so I was curious if you thought this was the case? And also what other drawbacks do you see between a hardnose vs a rollernose?

 

[2dogs]

200-300 pine stumps?!!! Wow I've had to cut maybe half that many all toll on one project over 2 years. That many at one time will be pain in the back. Literally! How big in diameter? The stumps we had to cut were 18" - 30". They had to be cut lower than 6" and debarked down to the soil with an axe. I tried using a pulaski but that caused bark to hit me in the face.

Anyway I would use a semi-chisel chain and any old bars I had laying around. If it meant a new bar I would go with a hard nose. I hope your stumps are clean or you will spend alot of time resharpening.

 

[hoss]

+1 on the hard tip bar and semi chisel, but don't forget your wedges.It's alot less stress on the saw if the weight of the stump is resting on the wedges rather than the bar.

 

[djmercer1]

got these bars on clearance:
carlton premium hard-tip'
$25 for 36"
....
$15 for 16"

advertised in christmas catalog.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Nice

+1 on the hard tip bar and semi chisel, but don't forget your wedges.It's alot less stress on the saw if the weight of the stump is resting on the wedges rather than the bar.

That's a good idea Hossman... Never heard/thought of that.

 

[SawTroll]

+1 on the hard tip bar and semi chisel, but don't forget your wedges.It's alot less stress on the saw if the weight of the stump is resting on the wedges rather than the bar.

That's a good idea Hossman... Never heard/thought of that.

Pretty obvious, in my "book".....:greenchainsaw:

 

[GASoline71]

Wedges and stump cuttin' go together like peanut butter and jelly. Never cut stumps without a wedge.

Gary

 

[2dogs]

Yep, wedges.

 

[Sawin]

My buddy who owns a saw shop down in TN says that most of the loggers down there use hard nose bars. They claim its harder to kick the chain off a hardnose bar vs the roller nose. I don't have any experience with hardnose bars so I was curious if you thought this was the case? And also what other drawbacks do you see between a hardnose vs a rollernose?

In my usual dull state of mind, never considered a hard nose. Of course this is the one to use for a gaggle of stumps. I knew that...:monkey: :blush:
...or at least I should have.

Back when I started trying not to hurt myself with a chainsaw, that's what was used. Also no chain breaks. (Remember when I could not purchase a saw without it, and thought it was just a gimmick:stupid: )

Anyway, yes I beleive it is harder to throw a chain off a solid nose bar. The tension of the chain is more than that used on a roller tip.

 

[Pissfirwillie]

For stump removals, you will have a hard time beating these. The landing boys use some of these bars and they are stout!

www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CPH+24+HU58+01&catID=59

 

[Sawin]

For stump removals, you will have a hard time beating these. The landing boys use some of these bars and they are stout!

www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CPH+24+HU58+01&catID=59

Thanks, was just looking at those. I think I will include one in my order. thanks to all for your help. It's a shame to see a brain, (mine), wasting away...oh poor me....

 

[rahtreelimbs]

One thing that works in a pinch, provided the bar is big enough, is to plunge cut and leave a little holding wood/tab to keep the stump cut open all the way through!!!

 

[buzz sawyer]

+1 on the hard tip bar and semi chisel, but don't forget your wedges.It's alot less stress on the saw if the weight of the stump is resting on the wedges rather than the bar.

ekka posted a video on a "bore/wing" cut for taking off a section without it resting on the bar. Do a bore through in the center and then cut both sides just above and just in to the edges of your bore. The remaining wood will support the stump while you get the saw out. You can then knock the stump over with a couple kicks or sledge blows and trim off the wings. I've used it a couple times with success. May be a little more work but no pinched bars.

 

[RiverRat2]

My buddy who owns a saw shop down in TN says that most of the loggers down there use hard nose bars. They claim its harder to kick the chain off a hardnose bar vs the roller nose. I don't have any experience with hardnose bars so I was curious if you thought this was the case? And also what other drawbacks do you see between a hardnose vs a rollernose?

Brad,,,

Your bud is correct!!!!!! A chain stays on a hard nosed bar better hands down over a roller tip,,, especially longer bars in extreme dirty service or rough service,, I.E. wind driven spars that are loaded or in a bind,,, stump cutting ETC. Thats all my bro Steve runs is hard nosed bars.... JMHO for cutting that many stumps I would buy some of those Baily's specials and a roll of RM/ semi round style chain and get after it!!!!

 

[Lakeside53]

Hard nose for geneal use? na.. chain wear... hot bars.... lots of reason NOT to use them unless in dirt.. and then... I'd use a track hoe before I'd mess around with a hardnosed bar....